97 7.3L Won't start, won't scan!

[lmorgan]

I bought my son a nice '97 7.3L F250 about two weeks ago. He hasn't had any problems out of it in the few days he's driven it until last night. He cranked it up to leave and was pulling out of the drive when it died for no apparent reason. We pushed it back in the yard and it won't do anything but spin over. It doesn't even attempt to fire. The batteries are new. I put my Snap-On scanner on it this morning and it won't read. It won't even power up unless I hold down the reserve power button and when it does, it goes through the KOEO process then says "test aborted: engine not responding". I thought the problem might be with the scanner, so I put it on my '95 and it worked perfectly. I even did a buzz test on my 95 while I had it on there and it worked without holding down the reserve power button.

Any suggestions at all? I assume that if the scanner won't even read power, then it must be something eletrical or computerized? The lights, radio, etc. all work perfectly. It just won't start.

I bought the truck from a local used car lot, but it was as-is, no warranty.

Help!

[NoRalPh]

First, do you get the WTS light when you first roll-on the key?

This is an indication of weather or not the PCM is running. If you can't scan either, it could be it's not and Never going to start.

This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace the fuse. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want

[lmorgan]

I don't have a WTS light working and the tach isn't moving when it turns over (I read on another thread that the tach should move when it's trying to fire). I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced it, but still no change. Is there another way to check the PCM?

[NoRalPh]

Which fuse was blown?

If it was the 30, did you unplug the heater so it won't blow again?

Without a WTS Light and no-scan, your PCM is, NOT running...

[lmorgan]

Okay, I double checked and the heater WAS plugged. I must have replaced it then changed the fuse, which it promptly blew. I unplugged it, replaced the fuse and it fired right up. It also allowed me to run a scan. I cleared the codes, ran it again, and got the same four codes. Maybe someone can help me with the codes:

P0113: IAT circuit input high
P0380: Glow Plug Circuit
P0381: Glow Plug Indicator
P1662: IDM enabler

[Ford7three]

Replace your number 30 fuse and see what it does.. Id be willing to bet That is the issue, Also check and make sure your CPS connection is good.

[mr.mike]

Hey there. I've got a similar prob this morning. When you say #30 fuse, you're referring to the rating and not the position in Power Distribution Box, right? My fuse locations are numbered 1 thru 22.

[NoRalPh]

In an OBS it's at position #22 (under the hood) the SD's are in position #30 in-cab...

[mr.mike]

Thanks for the response. It's #22 and I missed seeing the micro-gap in the fuse the first time I checked it.

I'm back in action but am perplexed, a couple of years ago it appeared to be just the fuel bowl heater, its unplugged and then exactly a year later on exactly the same road it happened again. I found that plug dangling down on the block, that time I wrapped it in electrical tape and all was good.

Now 2 years later it blows again, but the tape wrap is intact, the wire itself looks good, are there any other things to look at or consider?

Thanks

[jackiem]

I have the same prob unpluged the fuel heater and replaced the fuse..still no wts light