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Old 09-23-2012, 06:14 PM
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white smoke

Hi , I am new in this, so really need some help , have a f 250 , 2006 V8
diesel engine 6.0 liter , mecanical transmission, truck has 110,000 miles, 2 months ago had to change the egr. valve, as noticed that the water in the reserver had gone several times, changed the head gasket too, now after 2 months started to notice that the truck makes some white smoke and the smell of the smoke is very strung, checked the oil engine , and is perfect , wather in the reserver is OK, I have drove 7000 miles after the repair of the EGR. PLEASE REALLY NEED SOME GOOD HELP ON WHAT TO CHECK.
Will appreciate your prompt response , Thank you .
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:47 AM
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Hi any help on the issue above???
Really would appreciate some information about this from good experienced people.
Would really appreciate.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:15 AM
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Was there water in the bottom of the egr valve? If there was then your egr cooler is ****. I take it you didn't do the egr delete.


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Old 09-24-2012, 06:23 AM
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Have not revised the EGR valve now, when had the problem before, we placed a new EGR valve, Do I need to check the water or cooler reservor?????
If it is down, do I need to see if the egr cooler is broken ??? correct??
Please any of your information will really be appreciate... Thank you .
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:52 AM
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the egr valve and egr cooler are totally different. sounds like your EGR COOLER is toast.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:06 AM
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I'm not quite sure exactly what you're saying. Remove the EGR valve and see if there is water/coolant in there.
When does it have the white smoke? Just on startup? acceleration? all the time?
Do you have a coolant filter? What coolant do you have? Has the oil cooler been replaced?
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:23 AM
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THANKS FOR BOTH REPLY. I JUST REVISED THE RESERVOR OF THE COOLANT AND THE LEVEL IS OK.
THE WHITE SMOKE IS WHEN I START THE TRUCK, DURING SOME ACCELERATION AND COMPRESSION TOO, THE TRUCK IS NOT AUTOMATIC TANSMISSION, ON IDLING IT IS A LITTLE BIT OF WHITE SMOKE, WHEN ACCELERATION THERE IS .
NO COOLANT FILETER.
DO NOT THINK THAT THE OIL COOLER HAS REPLACED.
APPRECIATE YOUR FEED BACK,
THANK YOU.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:31 AM
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I wonder if he is using google translator?
Park your truck on a decline overnight. (Nose of the truck lower than the rear)
In the morning, remove the EGR valve.
Check the bottom of the hole where the egr valve was installed with a flashlight.
If you see evidence of moisture (small puddle or even just a few drop of visible liquid), you EGR cooler needs to be replaced. Your oil cooler will also need to be replaced. The egr cooler failure is a symptom of a bad oil cooler.
The coolant supply to the egr cooler is from the oil cooler. If the coolant stream is compromised by plugged up coolant passages in the oil cooler, the egr cooler will overheat and fail....and will leak coolant into the intake manifold. When the EGR valve opens, your engine is drinking the coolant, causing the white smoke.
DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK until you repair it. If you do so, you could pop your headgaskets ($$$$).
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:08 PM
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Thank you for the detailed explanation,
One more question, if the are problems with the oil egr cooler and the oil cooler, should I notice a decrease of the level in the cooling reservor??? Please advise.
2 months ago we did changed the EGR valve and placed a new one and did changed the head gaskets, we did not changed the oil cooler radiator and the EGR cooler.
Waiting on your information.
Thank you.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:03 PM
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This is going to be a long post...

Don't confuse the EGR VALVE with the EGR COOLER. The valve opens and closes to regulate the exhaust gases that are allowed to re-enter the engine (for pollution control purposes). The EGR cooler does as its name implies, it cools the exhaust gases before they are sent back in to the engine.

2 months ago would have been the optimal time to address the oil cooler/egr cooler failures, when you had it all apart. The oil cooler plugging could very well be the reason your head gaskets popped in the first place.

Here is what I would do in your situation:
First: Stop driving the truck, unless you want to redo your head gaskets again.

Purchase a new oil cooler and egr cooler (if you so choose or need to keep your egr system intact).

Click HERE and download a copy of "nylyons' reverse flushing technique"
Read over what it takes to properly flush the cooling system of a 6.0, but disregard any and all mention of reverse flushing. The reverse flush will not help you in your situation whatsoever. This step will remove all the junk that clogged your existing oil cooler previous to undertaking your repair. This styke of flush will not be done by any garage or mechanic out there. The reason is simple. The time involved would require that you pay him for 8-10 hours to flush your cooling system. You would get the bill and faint, and he has much better things to do than to flush your engine/cooling system.

You will need to do a few things to prepare your engine to perform the flush as safe as possible. (By the way, the flushing will take you the better part of a full day to accomplish).
The first is to perform a mod that will raise the idle speed of your engine to 1200RPM so that the chemicals you need to use can circulate throughout the cooling system/engine.
Luckily you have a 2006 and this modification is exceptionally easy to do (someone will let us know whether or not this works on a manual transmission, as I am not sure of that).
Tucked up right above the emergency brake pedal is a bundle of wires that have black shrinkwrap on the ends of them. In that bundle, find the purple wire with a green stripe. All you have to do is get 12 volts (switched/fused at 5-10 amps) to that wire.
There are safety locks that must be in place for the idle to jump to 1200 RPM. Those are:
The emergency brake is on
The regular brake is not applied
The transmission is in Park..for auto trans models. I am hoping that the standard trans being in neutral would also work. If anyone reads this and has a standard trans that has the high-idle mod done, please post what had to be done if anything is different.

The second thing that you have to do to be able to run the engine for the flush is to prevent the leaking coolant from entering the engine. There are a couple ways to do this. One is to remove the EGR valve and verify that it is closed. Reinstall the egr valve back in to the intake manifold and do not connect it electrically...and pray that it will be ok.

Warning: DO NOT think that you can drive the truck with the egr valve unplugged electrically and everything will be ok. It won't be. The boost pressures from the turbo can force the valve open. With the engine running in this manner, a large amount of coolant can be waiting behind the valve, and if the turbo forces the valve open, your looking at yet another set of head gaskets. Don't do it.

If you saved your old egr valve, tack weld it shut and install that back in to the intake.

Again, don't think you can drive the truck around much with the egr valve welded shut. There are other ways that a leaking egr cooler can have a detrimental effect without going past the valve. The leaking coolant still has to go somewhere, and that somewhere is out the tailpipe. Before it can exit the tailpipe, it goes through your turbo. The soot in there, along with coolant can make the unison ring (that controls the vanes that make boost) stick, causing an underboost or an overboost condition.
If you have a Catalytic converter under your truck, coolant going through that can cause it to plug up prematurely also.

Once you get all the above done, its time to replace the oil cooler and egr coolers.
Click HERE to go to a "sticky" on this forum that has the pdf files you need to do this, as well as some parts that you should consider updating while they are already off the truck and in your hand. It also has some tips/tricks posted as well.

Good luck and happy wrenching
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