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Old 08-27-2012, 10:37 AM
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Unhappy NO START

Hi. We have a 2000 f-350 7.3 powerstroke. Approx. 3 wks ago, we were driving down the road, and it died, like you turned the key off. Wouldn't start. Had to have it towed home. Ever since then, I've been searching all the computer forums, looking for help to give my husband in diagnosing and fixing the truck. We had a spare motor, taken out of a wrecked truck, but it was running when it was wrecked. So he has taken out every sensor he can find on it, and replaced them into our truck. Still no start. The tach does move when you crank the truck, there is NO smoke out the tail pipe. The fuel pump is running. There is fuel in the fuel bowl. He replaced the HPOP. Still no start. Replaced the ECM under the wheel well with one bought from a salvage yard. I went to Oreilly to rent the code reader but they told me that if the check engine light is not on, then it won't work, and won't give any codes. Can someone please help ??? We live way out in the country, and tow bills and garage bills are extremely expensive. Theres usually nothing my husband cannot fix, but we are at our wits end on this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:42 AM
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Does the WTS light come on when you turn the key? If the cam position sensor has been replaced, and it still doesn't get a tach reading, it sounds like the fuel bowl heater may have shorted out. When that happens, it takes out the power fuse for the PCM. Easy fix.

When mine went, it was warming up in my driveway, and it just shut down like someone pulled the key. There was no WTS light or tach reading, and no smoke, because the PCM had no power to command the fuel injectors. Unplugged the fuel bowl heater, replaced the fuse, and hit the highway.

EDIT... I just re-read that and realized you said you do have a tach reading. Hmm.. Has he replaced the IDM?

Last edited by nine6stroker; 08-27-2012 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:33 AM
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Yes, the wait to start light does come on. Is the IDM that box under the drivers side fender ? If so, yes, he replaced that.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:55 AM
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Have you checked all the fuses in the underhood fuse box?

Does it attempt to start (stumble, snort, rumble) or does it just crank?
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:00 AM
...kind of looks homeless

 

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x2 on checking the fuel bowl heater. IIRC fuse #22 under hood will pop if that heater shorts out inside the fuel bowl. This will also cause your PCM to receive no power.

If the PCM was replaced, was it the same PCM code as the original? I've never had experience with replacing those (although I have paid for it to be done) but I believe they cannot be mixed and matched. At least I know that they will not operate properly, but they might start up.

I would also check the connectors and conditions of all the wiring coming off your HPOP and in the general area of the valley (fuel bowl connectors, gpr connectors, UVCH connectors). It sounds to me like a bad CPS, but I'm just not sure. Even if the tach is moving you could still have a bad CPS.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:03 AM
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no start issue contd..

It has only been cranking, not even trying to start until yesterday. Yesterday, a guy told us that sometimes the cam sensors you get might be faulty, so we got another one. He installed it, and it ALMOST started, had smoke and everything for a few seconds. Really thought it was going to, then it didn't and right back to where we started.

Yes, he has taken each fuse out and checked them. Any other ideas for us to try ? We really need to get this fixed.

Thank you
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:08 AM
...kind of looks homeless

 

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Do you have access to a battery trickle charger? I would check your batteries' loads to make sure you're pushing enough juice to fire up. These trucks take some serious power to start and if the batteries are low it will crank, but not fire. I had the same no start situation a while back and all it took was a new CPS and an overnight trickle charge on the batteries and some good cranking sessions. I hope some other guys chime in, but it just really sounds like CPS to me. Also, maybe try to swap your old PCM back in now that there is a new CPS plugged in. You might get lucky.

Sorry I'm not more help, but I'll keep trying.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:10 AM
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thank you for all that info, I have written it down, and will take it out to him to try . I'm not very good at using this site, I saw that the previous person, I responded to, I guess ever how I did it, it didn't go up there and answer him. but anyway, I sure appreciate all you guys help! thanks a bunch.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:41 AM
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I would suggest checking the oil quantity too.
I learned this the hard way.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:06 PM
Hee Hee, he's doing it...
 

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Just to clean things up:

-Tach. bounces while cranking
-Fuel Pump (sounds like it's / buzzing) working
-Replaced:
HPOP
PCM
and all known sensors (CPS x2)
-checked and confirmed all (under the dash and under the hood) fuses good
-Wait to Start light cycles

PreachersWife, please check and confirm that I am correct with the list above.

Please confirm yourself or with your husband that:

1: when the truck cranked and started smoking that the smoke was White out the tail pipe
2: that the IPR (sensor on the HPOP) was changed with the HPOP or as one of the sensors off the other motor. This sensor does not come with a new HPOP so he would have reused the "old one". Along with the CPS or a fuse the IPR will instantly kill the motor.
3: while cranking for about 5 seconds, does the oil pressure gauge on the dash climb into the "normal" range
4: there are no fluids of any kind in the engine valley
5: you stated that the "check engine" light was not present. Does it at least come on briefly when your cycle the key from off to run? Just asking to make sure that the bulb isn't burned out and there might really be a code in the system. The parts guy is only half true on the check engine light. The auto world has what are called soft codes and hard codes. A hard code would set the light and be readable where a soft code would not set the light and the PCM is looking to see if the fault happens again before setting a hard code. Both are readable but not by all scan tools.

Things to look at right now. Please:

6: the batteries need to be tested off of the trucks harness (just need to pull the positive off the drivers side) to make sure that both batteries are in good working order individually. One bad battery can cause a no start situation because the PCM in the truck NEEDS to see at least 300 sustained engine RPMs before it will allow the injectors to fire.
7: No little miss the IDM is a separate computer that is mounted on the inner fender wall near the windshield under the hood on the drivers side. It is responsible for firing the injectors but only when the PCM, inside the truck behind the kick-panel by the drivers left foot, tells it to. "Generally" if there is no white smoke while cranking then there is a IDM fault BUT the fault may lie in the the PCM (sorry, Ford really did make the injection system on these trucks as hard as possible to understand).
8: The Super Duty glove box manual will tell you that not only are there fuses involved in powering the computers but there are 2 relays in the under hood fuse box that also power the computers. I don't know which one it is on a Super Duty but on our 1st Gen. Power Strokes it is Relay 1 that powers the PCM and relay 2 that powers the IDM. Please swap out the #1 & #2 relays for the #3 (horn) and #4 (trailer brake) relays to see if it is a bad relay.

I think I'll stop there for now and let you see what you can see. If I have typed anything that you don't fully understand (like what does IDM stand for) please do not hesitate to ask. We want you back on the road as much as you do.

Good luck and please keep us Updated.

Last edited by BigFuel; 08-29-2012 at 03:54 PM.
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