Intermittent shut down, long cranking - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 67 Old 05-30-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Question Intermittent shut down, long cranking

Hi all, I am having some intermittent trouble with my 95 F250 7.3. It will run fine then every couple days it will just shut down. I can normally restart it while rolling. It also will crank and crank to no avail, but will normally start up after cycling the key a few times. This can happen after running perfect and shutting it down. When she dies while driving the injectors make a noticeably different noise, and either stalls or dies completely. I have recovered it from the stall just by giving her some fuel, but most of the time its very sudden. I have checked the normal stuff, replaced the CPS, Fuel Filter, Oil level. Please note I do not have access to the great tool we have back in the states as I am a missionary in Belize. I did manage to find a guy with a scanner, but there are no codes to be had, and everything looked normal. It should be noted that we are now in the rainy season so driving through a couple feet of water, rivers and many rough roads is the norm. I have looked for and visible corrosion but haven't didn't see anything alarming. Any advice would be great as I really need it dependable with Hurricane season coming soon.
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post #2 of 67 Old 06-02-2012, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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Bump, It wouldn't start again last night. Took forever to start I was almost thinking she wouldn't fire. It sucks when your trusted truck starts to become untrustworthy.
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post #3 of 67 Old 06-03-2012, 05:53 AM
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It sounds as if your primary fuel pump may be failing, see post under 7.3, long cranks under your thread for instructions to ck flow. Also, have you checked all fliud levels, esp oil, changed it lately, if so, what kind of oil filter was installed. Go read my post A Word of Caution and Quest for Knowledge, scroll down, you'll find them, for some tips. Try switching the IDM relay for the Blower Motor Relay, underhood relay box beside the master brake cylinder, swap second large relay for the third large relay closest to the fender.
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post #4 of 67 Old 06-03-2012, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Well today shes a no start all together. I tried swapping the relay's you mentioned with no luck. I changed the oil 4 months ago about 3000 miles or so, and used a Fram filter. Reading some of the things your mentioned I find out that Fram is not the best option. Come to think of it this is the first time I've used a fram filter on this truck. Fluids are all up to level, and I haven't located the thread for testing the fuel pump flow. Got to pull the batteries and charge them. I'm guessing here but if its the oil filter causing the trouble a oil change is due, but will I also need to pull the injectors?
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post #5 of 67 Old 06-03-2012, 01:03 PM
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Read about the harness under the valve cover and see if the problem you're having sounds like that. It will come unplugged and cause shut downs, no starts, etc. Good luck.

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post #6 of 67 Old 06-03-2012, 01:23 PM
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The post is '2000 7.3 cranks, no start-yes, another one' by CaseyJ. The first two things you need to ck are the fuel pump, is it supplying fuel up to the HPOP/rails and then, as Hank said, ck the connections at the harnesses at the valve covers and under the valve covers. Do you have access to a manual and/or a wiring schematic? If you can get your hands on an STP filter(S3786), a Mobil 1{better}(M1-601) or a K&N[best] HP-6001 filter, pull the Fram, drain it and cut around it back about one inch from the closed end, pop the end off and see if the cardboard end plate is shredded, if it is then most likely it has clogged the injectors. Don't pull them till you do this part, so as not to pull the injectors needlessly. First thing is to check the fuel pump for flow, though, anything else at this point and you may be wasting your time. Do you have access to a Digital Volt Ohm Meter? Stay in touch.
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post #7 of 67 Old 06-04-2012, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Well I pulled the batteries to charge em up, and for kicks put a volt meter to em. They both read 12.6v or better, so I put them back in the truck and their wasnt enough juice to turn her over. After thinking about this for a bit I reminded my self that for a month or so if I let the truck sit for a day she would crank really slow. Not sure if this would be causing my trouble, but as for now I cant crank her over with these batteries. The starter does engage but acts like a dead battery. Everything will have to wait for a day or two as the nearest city is a ways off, and the roads are currently washed out. Might have to boat out to get new batteries. Unless anyone thinks these batteries are good and something else has gone wrong. Otherwise I will check the harness and change the oil. At least I will feel like I did something. HAHA
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post #8 of 67 Old 06-04-2012, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Should of mentioned it. Yesterday when I tried to start it up for church. After 5 to 6 attempts I had to stop as it was barely turning over.
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post #9 of 67 Old 06-04-2012, 02:28 PM
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Wow, it sounds like your batteries don't have the deep cycling capacity to muster the amperage to turn over the engine, but try charging them anyway. Lead acid batteries can develop a "memory" after a while, if they are never drained more than, say 10%, then after a while 10% is all you can get out of them before they weaken. I try to always take new batteries and drain them completely, called a full cycle draw, and then re-charge them on a charger(don't use your alternator, too hard on it). I know this isn't possible with many people and many modern vehicles,(computer shut down programming on lights and such). I usually use a trolling motor in a 55 gal drum and run it till it dies. It "sets" the memory, or ability to deep discharge, on the battery. Put your volt meter on the battery closest to the starter(pass side) and watch the voltage as someone tries to crank it, if it falls to <9volts then either the batteries are toast or the starter is pulling too much amperage. Past that, they have to be load tested with a carbon pile machine, it replicates a heavy discharge on them to see how much capacity they can develop. Of course, where you are at that's probably impossible to accomplish. How far would you have to go to get them to a shop that might have that equipment? Don't change the oil just yet, just swap filters and cut that one open with a hack saw(burn the old oil in a fire if you can't recycle it, bad for the environment and water to dump it), if it has shredded the end just changing the oil won't help, you'll have to pull and clean the injector oil passages, then change the oil, you'll need some fine picks or big paper clips to pick the pieces out. You're not in a good place to be having to try and fix such problems, but you've little choice. Ck the fuel pump and harnesses first though. Do you have some decent tools and things that you can get the front and back fuel hoses disconnected? Try to keep them clean, dirt will cut the O-rings inside the front one and make it leak. They can run and not pump fuel, so you have to drop the lines to ck for flow. With what voltage you can muster from the current batteries you should be able to check that much and know if you have to get batteries and a pump in one trip. Thoughts and prayers.
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post #10 of 67 Old 06-04-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help Porkchop! I have most of the tools I could need except a scanner but as I said I found a guy with one. Its a long ways to the city. Especially now that we are just getting into the rainy season. Would you mind explaining or linking the directions for testing the fuel pump. I have not been able to locate them in the forums. I'm praying that that blasted fram filter has held together as I do not want to pull the injectors in a sandy environment. Though the rain keeping the dust down could be very helpful. I will try charging those batteries and swap the filter tomorrow. Thanx again
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