7.3

[ripps]

Truck idles fine but put in gear has now power what's going on

[NoRalPh]

Ahhh,, generally, ya might want to expand your post a bit

I like succinct, but, this is kinda sparse.....

I'll take a stab though, have you looked at fuse #45? Do your gauges work?

Post back with what year your truck is, do the gauges work, does it try to rev and stutter, run smooth, not rev at all, or drive ok just without the power it should....


We'll try to help.

[porkchop6209]

There are a number of things that can cause a diesel to have no power, far and away the most common is lack of proper fuel delivery to, or through, the injectors. The first, and easiest thing to do on any diesel, is replace the fuel filter. Go to O'Reilly's and get a Chilton's manual on Super Duty's(27.00) and a new filter(about 35.00) and thoroughly read the procedure for changing it. Get a couple of cans of Brakleen and make sure you clean away all the dirt from around the filter housing first. Don't want to get dirt in a diesel fuel system, or anywhere for that matter, it will ruin it. Take your time, think about what you are doing and trying to accomplish, don't rush, you'll only break something expensive that way. If you are unsure about how to do something, stop and ask someone, like you did here. A fuel filter is easy to change if done right and with some common sense. I always prime my filter housings with fresh diesel after I put in the new filter, but before I put the top on, or if it is a canister filter I fill the filter, (oil filters too so it doesn't hammer the bearings trying to fill it after the fresh start), to minimize how much air I've introduced into the system. Air is bad, can cause a no start condition until it's bled out. You won't need much, buy a gallon and a fresh can, use a clean plastic cup to pour it into the housing, don't fill it completely to the top, leave 1/4"-1/2" space. You can pour the rest in your tank. Tighten the housing top appropriately, don't cross the threads and don't overtighten it. If it gets overly tight just after you start to screw it in, stop, back it out and realign the threads. Gotta use some smarts and common sense here. Don't force, if it doesn't feel right it probably isn't. You have to tighten it enough to seat it and not allow fuel to escape or air to enter, but you aren't tightening an axle nut either. Be careful. Spray it off with Brakleen again to clean away any residual fuel, you can also put old rags under the housing, just make sure you take them out when finished.
Start the truck, check it for fuel leaks, let it idle 3-5 minutes to purge the system. If this didn't fix it then most likely your fuel pump is failing or a sensor has gone south on you. I don't have any idea of your mechanical abilities or the types of tools you might have available, but to ck the pump pressure and flow requires some special stuff that usually proffesional mechanics have, fuel pressure gauge, the right hose adapter, and the coupler tools to release the fittings properly. The Chilton's manual has great pics and specs on this procedure. Do you know anyone with a diesel shop that has a good reputation that you would trust? You could probably replace the pump yourself with the right tools, but it wouldn't save you any money on the difference you'd have to spend to get the tools to do it. The pump is located on the inner side of the driver's side frame rail just about under the driver's side door. Don't mess with it or pry on it, or the hoses, without knowing what you are doing. It takes a special tool to get the fuel lines off or you will screw up the fittings and have to replace the lines, they are not field servicable and are expensive, but at least you will know where the pump is.

[porkchop6209]

Yes, def what noRalPh said. Ck your fuses and connections before you go spending money, I got a little ahead of myself.

[Makolab]

What is fuse #45? Im asking because my brothers 7.3 350 is a dog compared to my 6.0. The dealer said his motor did not have a turbo and when I stepped on the gas in his truck, it sounded like it was bogging down the whole time. It ran fine but has a slow start. The owner befor him pulled a 5th wheel camper so it had low miles. Is the 7.3 a slow get-up-and-go?

[porkchop6209]

I've never seen a 7.3 that didn't have a turbo, almost every diesel I've ever seen had at least one. Open the hood and look at the middle of the engine, near the firewall. There should be a large cylindrical component, dual chambers, that is shaped like a nautilus(sic? That ocean going critter) with big pipes connected to it in the form of a Y shape. That's the turbo and therein lies the secret to getting more bang out of a diesel, pack in more air/add more fuel-get more go! It's my understanding, and the unfortunate, expensive experiences of a couple of friends that you don't want to boost a 6.0 without richly modifying the block/head area with studs, better gaskets, etc. Apparently their weak spot are the bolts stretching and lifting the heads. Mucho Grande damage! If his isn't pulling something isn't right with it, ours will run like a scalded jackrabbit and it's bone stock save for larger tires.
My friend had this '01 F350 SD/auto CCSB 4x4 single axle that we bought. He also has an '04 F350 ext cab long bed dually, 6.0 5spd 4x4. Both were used on his farms and I drove the '01 for 5 years before we bought it. Time and again, regardless of pulling flatbeds with tractors or implements, a 32ft gooseneck loaded to the hilt with jelly rolls of hay, hauling cattle, or in the snow; that '01 would out drive, out pull, out tow and out run that 6.0 hands down. Once, Robert had the gooseneck on the '04 loaded with green rolls(wet and heavy) and the '04 just could not muster the ooommmpphhh to get it up the hill where we were cutting. My oldest son, Matt, pulled nose to nose, we threw a chain on it, and swear to God, in 2 wd he backed up that hill pulling the '04 and the trailer and it never grunted or spun the tires. My other son drives it for his welding business and with out fail, every time we are together Robert tries to get Cory to trade it back to him for the '04. He wants to go back to a 99-02 7.3 but he wants a dually with a stick. All I've run across are automatics. If anyone sees one for sale drop us a line, most reasonable travel to look at it isn't a problem.

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by Makolab

What is fuse #45? Im asking because my brothers 7.3 350 is a dog compared to my 6.0. The dealer said his motor did not have a turbo and when I stepped on the gas in his truck, it sounded like it was bogging down the whole time. It ran fine but has a slow start. The owner befor him pulled a 5th wheel camper so it had low miles. Is the 7.3 a slow get-up-and-go?

The 7.3 IS a little "slow get-up-and-go" compared to the 6.0, but what it lacks in stock "punch" it More than makes up for in reliability

The issue with fuse #45 has to do with the TPS so, in an Auto where the OD switch on the stalk is commonly chafed through, 45 blows and prevents the TPS from communicating. That would make the truck idle-only and might be construed as "No Power" when in gear....

Again, really need to know what kind of truck we're talking about here though.