HELP! On the road and in Trouble! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:06 PM
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HELP! On the road and in Trouble!

2004 PSD 6.0. I have been fighting an issue for a long time where the engine feels like it misses when accelerating and when it does this miss, the truck blows a puff of black smoke out of the exhaust.

I checked the EGR system and everything looks good. No dampness under the EGR valve.

Two weeks ago I started getting an EBP sensor error code. I replaced the EBP sensor, and after that everything seemed good. (oh, and I did the blue regulator spring upgrade, and a ccv mod) So this weekend we used the truck to haul our horse about an hour away from home to a show. The truck hauled down fine. Well except that the engine oil did go up to 215 degrees once when pulling up a hill.

Now the issue suddenly came back, and worse than ever. I'm not getting any EBP codes. In fact, I'm not getting much of any codes. Every once in a while I'll get a P0603 code. But the truck is bucking, missing, and puffing like crazy when accelerating. I've noticed that when it happens the EGT gauge goes way up. To like 1300. I'm using a Banks Six-Gun tuner with the Power PDA to get these temp readings.

Here's my working hypothesis. One of the injectors on the drivers side isn't working right. It's not spraying enough fuel into the cylinder to combust completely, then the cylinder pushes the unburned fuel into the exhaust manifold where it ignites, over top of my EGT gauge, and causes the black smoke.

Does this sound likely? Or am I way off?

Is it dangerous to try and nurse this truck an hour home? (there is an International Dealership just down the road here that I could leave it at.)

Is there a way I could test the injectors myself out here?

If I do drive it home, am I going to destroy the catalytic converter? Or anything else?

Thanks!
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:29 PM
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My friends 2004 did the same thing
It was egr valve. New valve fixed it.
Disconnect it to see if it stops.
Sent from my SPH-M910 using AutoGuide.com App

Last edited by caissiel; 03-17-2012 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:50 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I got up this morning and the truck was still cutting out on the way to the barn. When I got here I pulled the plug off of the EGR valve and took it for another drive. WOW! The problem completely disappeared. So, now I have two questions:

1. Is it safe to drive home with the egr unplugged?

2. If it is safe to drive with it unplugged, why does anyone bother replacing these? Why not just leave them unhooked?
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:32 PM
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Completly fine to drive with the EGR unplugged. Its actually better for the motor due to lower EGT's. You will get an insufficient EGR flow code but no worries. Alot of guys who cant fork the dough or time to delete the EGR just unplug and keep motorin
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:51 PM
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Big thanks for the help this weekend guys. We made it home with no further EGR issues with the valve unplugged. In fact, the truck ran great. The EGT's were in the 7 - 800 degree range most of the time. Going down to the show they were steadily in the 900 - 1000 range.

One other thing did pop up this weekend though. Our oil temp was consistantly in the 203 - 209 degree range. Is that high? A couple of times it hit 210 - 215 and the Banks tuner yelled at us. It was a very nice 73 degree day out, and we were just driving country roads. Nothing bad, no stop and go traffic.

The truck has 125K miles on it, and it is due for an oil change. Should I also plan on replacing the oil cooler? Would that help bring the temp down. And for that matter, what is the ideal range for oil temps?

Thanks,
George
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:36 PM
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Sounds like you are in need of a cooling system flush, replace the oil cooler, delete the EGR circuit, if you dont have emissions laws, if you dohave emissions, use bulletproofdiesel.com's EGR cooler, install a coolant filter, and refill your cooling system with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC such as Zerex HD. a ruptured EGR cooler is the means to an end. By end I mean, blown headgaskets and lifted heads. High oil temps are the means to an end for your injectors. The highly sensitive 6.0 HEUI injector relys heavily on cool clean oil for proper operation and longevity
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:34 PM
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Thanks Michaelaiman. Yes, I think a cooler replacement is in my near future.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:46 PM
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Heres the thing though, a clogged oil cooler is what causes a ruptured egr cooler. The ford gold coolant wasnt designed to handle the high EGT's in a diesel. The superheating of the coolant in the EGR cooler causes silicates to fall out of suspension in the coolant. These silicates then gel up and clog the coolant passages in the oil cooler. This in turn, cause a trickle effect of coolant into the EGR cooler, causing flash boiling of the coolant causing rapid pressure increases in the cooler, rupturing the cooler. Long story short, EGR cooler/delete and oil cooler kinda go hand in hand. somethin to think about, do you want to tear it apart twice?
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:37 PM
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As far as I can tell, the EGR cooler is still in decent shape. At least, it's not wet in there. So no, I don't want to tear it apart twice, but $$ may dictate that I do. Not sure yet. I'll have to check out my finances after I get back from Disneyworld. My 5 year old's birthday comes first! What I do know is that I want to stay away from the Ford gold coolant. I'll try to find some of that Zerex you recommend. Thanks.
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