need help 7.3 quit running and wont start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 02-26-2012, 10:18 AM
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need help 7.3 quit running and wont start

hi, im new to the forum but have a problem i cant seem to figure out.the other night i was on my way home and the truck starte idling pretty bad the it starte losing power and felt like it was running out of fuel then stall and wouldnt start back up i started looking and found what i think is the fuel pressure regulators nut came off and it came off i was abel to find the sleve/spacer thing that i think goes between the regulator and the nut but couldnt find the nut and now i cant fin the nut for sale any where.does anyone know what size that nut is and does this sound like it would be my problem? oh and its a 99 f250 7.3l and has a 6 pos.chip. thanks for any help.
justin
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:36 AM
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update... i found the nut put itback on and still no start and i didnotice that the wires going into the connector looked like they got hot and were rubbing together i seperated the wires but still no start.any ideas??
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:42 AM
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What you're describing is the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) and that "sleeve" is actually an electrical coil that forms an electro magnet to control it (it's Important to have on there )

The nut is [barely a nut at all. It's one of those "Tin Nuts" (made of sheetmetal) whose job it is to keep that coil from sliding back & off. It should be down in the valley somewhere but, really, anything should do.... Maybe you could even use a washer and some safety wire?

And yes, when the nut falls off (not uncommon) your engine has trouble running!
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:49 AM
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We posted together, glad you got it back on but, still no-start?

The IPR can sometimes stick, try "rapping" on it with a screwdriver handle a few times maybe.

Those wires look melted? You see bare copper? Make sure they're not touching and that the plug connections look OK.

The typical No Start things to check are,

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key?

Tach Movement? - does the tach needle move up slightly when cranking?

Fuel - pump runs? Fuel refilling filter housing? Tank below 1/4?

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking really slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

Has the "Check Engine" been coming on at all? - codes would be the fastest way to direct you. Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them...

A new CPS might be worth a try and really, since Everybody should carry a spare in their glovebox anyway, even if it didn't help you'd have the old one as your spare

You could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to tell the IPR to go full open.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:56 AM
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thanks for the reply.yes ther was bare copper and the wires were touching.my wts light is coming on as usual ican hear the fuel pump and there is fuel in the bowl and my tach is reading so i dont think its the sensor and all the fuses look good too. i just dont know what else it could be
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
We posted together, glad you got it back on but, still no-start?

The IPR can sometimes stick, try "rapping" on it with a screwdriver handle a few times maybe.

Those wires look melted? You see bare copper? Make sure they're not touching and that the plug connections look OK.

The typical No Start things to check are,

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key?

Tach Movement? - does the tach needle move up slightly when cranking?

Fuel - pump runs? Fuel refilling filter housing? Tank below 1/4?

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking really slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

Has the "Check Engine" been coming on at all? - codes would be the fastest way to direct you. Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them...

A new CPS might be worth a try and really, since Everybody should carry a spare in their glovebox anyway, even if it didn't help you'd have the old one as your spare

You could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to tell the IPR to go full open.
what do you mean by the ipr can stick and the screw driver?
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:43 PM
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Inside the IPR there's a pintle & seat (controlled by that magnetic coil). Sometimes it can stick, I'm thinking maybe as that coil was sliding in new positions (with the nut off) that pintle got hung-up so, you could try rapping (tapping) on the IPR itself with something (like a screwdriver). Worth a shot!

So is unplugging the ICP (Injection Control Pressure) sensor as a test... It's in the front of the drivers side head, not far from the IPR.

At some point, the best way to find out what's going wrong is really gonna be to get it on a good scanner and monitor the sensors as you try to start.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
Inside the IPR there's a pintle & seat (controlled by that magnetic coil). Sometimes it can stick, I'm thinking maybe as that coil was sliding in new positions (with the nut off) that pintle got hung-up so, you could try rapping (tapping) on the IPR itself with something (like a screwdriver). Worth a shot!

So is unplugging the ICP (Injection Control Pressure) sensor as a test... It's in the front of the drivers side head, not far from the IPR.

At some point, the best way to find out what's going wrong is really gonna be to get it on a good scanner and monitor the sensors as you try to start.
i amgoing to bring my scanner home from work tomarrow and check what do you mean about unplugging the icp? also do you know of any where that i can buy that ipr connector from its in pretty bad shape
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:05 PM
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OK, from post #4

"Has the "Check Engine" been coming on at all? - codes would be the fastest way to direct you. Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them...

You could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to tell the IPR to go full open.
"

Not sure what you've got at work for a scanner, but it needs to be a pretty good one to read our trucks.

When the PCM receives no signal from the ICP (because you unplugged it) it sets a default value for the IPR to run with (like a "limp mode") so, as a test, you can simply unplug it to see if that will make the engine start. It would mean the ICP was bad and need to be replaced it it worked. It will also cause the SES light to come on...

Also Again, Anytime, Anybody, starts having trouble with running/starting and their truck is chipped, I always suggest trying to disconnect it. Your programming could have become confused...

Another "Free Test"
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
OK, from post #4

"Has the "Check Engine" been coming on at all? - codes would be the fastest way to direct you. Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them...

You could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to tell the IPR to go full open.
"

Not sure what you've got at work for a scanner, but it needs to be a pretty good one to read our trucks.

When the PCM receives no signal from the ICP (because you unplugged it) it sets a default value for the IPR to run with (like a "limp mode") so, as a test, you can simply unplug it to see if that will make the engine start. It would mean the ICP was bad and need to be replaced it it worked. It will also cause the SES light to come on...

Also Again, Anytime, Anybody, starts having trouble with running/starting and their truck is chipped, I always suggest trying to disconnect it. Your programming could have become confused...

Another "Free Test"
i work for mazda so weuse an IDS which is used for fords and mazda so i can do pretty much any thing with it. im trying to repair the wires to the ipr now and i did unplug the icp and there was quite a bit of oil inside the connector?
the chip has been disconnected
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