I thought I would just head off a little hard cold start issue... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:10 PM
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I thought I would just head off a little hard cold start issue...

Yea, I know, if it ain't broke don't fix it...

The patient is now on life support in the garage...

2003 F350 with a 12/06/2005 build date international VT365 engine(apparently an engine which was planned to go into an international truck at build but redirected to service my 2003 F350 engine repair in 3/07).

Original Symtoms: Longer than usual crank on cold start, then rough idle and no power for 2 to 5 minute warm up, then ran OK - but not happy about power. In fact, to think about it, the power has never been great since I had a fuel issue last fall (see below).

What I did:
1) Replaced the glow plugs with an internet supplier's units, used the 2003 version, put them in the truck, it would barely start, then it barely ran, glow plug warning light lit on dash.
2) Replaced the internet purchased 2003 plugs with the original berus (ones taken out of the engine originally), engine much worse than originally, rougher idle, truck would move but felt like an injector issue above 35 mph (bucking), no glow plug light lit on dash.
3) Replaced original plugs with a new set from Ford for a 2005 engine, replaced glow plug relay with ford part, replaced glow plug connectors (metal bus bar type from ford). Current Symtoms: Starts real nice now (meaning quickly), but rough idle. Absolutely no power, can't even get up the driveway. No dash lights.

Other information: Oil change not 100 miles ago. FICM does not carry the same engine ID number which is stamped on the engine, FICM is the 7 pin style, I took a voltage measurement of all 7 FICM pins - on the 4 pin row - on the pin closest to the center of the engine - I got 48Vdc. Got some bad fuel last fall and when I changed out the primary fuel filter it was caked full of sludge (engine still ran OK), secondary filter had some discoloration but not bad. After this filter replacement, I replaced both filters again about 5,000 miles or so, primary filter was black, secondary filter clean. I have seen the "water in fuel light" flicker during hard turns lately. I have looked for codes using an Innova 3100 CAN OBD2 diagnostic tool throughout all of this. Reader indicates no codes. Not sure if this tool can access the ford engine codes, anyone know?

Current thoughts:
1) I really need to rule out the fuel pump first. As I understand it there is a single electric fuel pump which is integrated with a sensor and water seperator, fuel heater, and primary filter (10 micron) attached to the rail under the driver. Place to check fuel pressure is at the 6mm screw at the bottom of the secondary (4 micron) fuel filter at the top center of the engine. Pressure should be 55 to 60 psi. Anyone know where to get a gauge or a fitting to use this fuel pressure port? Aside from the two fuel filters are there any other filters or meshes that I should look at given the original fuel issue, anything in the fuel tank other than a fuel pick up tube? I have read about emptying water from the fuel pump assembly, but not how to do it. Is the water simply removed with a primary fuel filter change, or is there some other way to empty it? If the pump turns out to be bad, are there any performance fuel pump upgrades, if so is an upgrade worth messing with? Any other fuel-related issues that I should be looking at?

2) FICM rule out next? Should I be worrying about the FICM not carrying my engine ID number? Anyone know what the process is regarding dealer engine swaps and the FICM. I found a nice article outlining how to check out a "4 pin" FICM, but mine is a 7 pin. I did find 48Vdc on one pin as indicated earlier, but not sure how far this applies to the 7 pin unit. Aside from a trip to the dealer, is there any way to isolate the FICM as good/bad?

3) Injector rule out next? I have read that when one injector goes out, it is time to replace all eight. I have read that a single bad injector can result in major power loss. I only have one other personal experience with this. The same engine had a single bad injector 2 years ago. Truck would run OK until asked to deliver a lot of power on quick acceleration or towing. Under these conditions the truck would buck. If I end up having to replace the injectors, should I replace all 8, are there performance upgrade injectors, would they be worth buying, where should they be purchased?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers;

Mike
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:53 PM
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Update

OK, I followed up on the bad fuel thought.

Actions: Pulled the fuel tank, tank pickup tube, and both filters. The tank was clean, I went ahead and harpooned it while is was out. The filters both looked good, the secondary 4 micron filter was a bit dirty though.

At this point, I am thinking either the fuel pump or multiple injectors (one injector would not result in this type of power loss). In researching the pump it looks as though I should find between 40 and 50 psi at idle. I have not been able to find a gauge locally to validate the fuel pressure. I found a nice electrical unit from autometer and purchased a carbon fiber unit from an ebay vendor. I will get this next week and get it installed.

While the gauge is coming in, I am thinking about bitting the bullet and buying either the Airdog FP150 or FASS FD H14 180G to get better and cheaper fuel filtration, air reduction, and higher fuel pressure. Anyone favor one over the other, or perhaps one I have not researched?

Any of your professionals out there able to answer the question of moving an FICM from my 2003 6.0 which is running well to my 2003 with the 2005 6.0 engine to put the FICM question to bed?

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:43 AM
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I would recommend that you get your truck scanned by someone with a good scanner with the right software for your thruck. It can narrow your problems down without replacing a lot of parts or work.
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:56 AM
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also a BUZZ test would let you know what condition your injectors are in.
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:29 AM
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Since the tank is out, I am going to take some time today and undercoat the bed and frame rails. The gauge will not get here until Thursday or so. So I plan to put it all back together and see how it runs. If it has enough power, I will take it to one of the local dealers for a code scan. Does an intector buzz test require special tools?
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:48 AM
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A buzz test is performed with a scanner that supports this test. Most scanners that support the buzz test will also do a contribution test, get that done also.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the input. Spent the morning looking at code readers with a capability to do the buzz and contribution tests. Ended up buying the Enginuity PC-based unit with the ford enhanced package. As you can probably tell by now, I HATE to rely on anyone to fix anything. The last time I got "help", the dealer tech stripped two valve cover bolts, which I am still going to have to fix.

Learning a lot, thanks...
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