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Thanks for the reply Jojo. The plug placement is the same as are the connectors. The guy at NAPA said the different parts numbers from Ford were due to an upgraded clutch. Otherwise, side by side, they are identical.
Now, as for my truck... I can thank my 7.3 PSD for not knowing something was wrong. First, I couldn't hear anything and second, I didn't feel anything lock up. I was just driving home and had the defroster on. Then I started seeing embers flying out from behind my truck. I drove about one mile more before stopping so that IF my truck were to go up in flames, I would have cell phone service to call the fire department, and also there was a gas station there and I figured they would have an extinguisher I could use. When I stopped I killed the engine and popped the hood. Smoke was coming from the clutch area of the compressor. I turned off the defroster, unplugged the compressor wiring and drove home. At this time there was NO bad noise from the clutch.
My thoughts are this:
1. If the clutch had worn itself out then when I turned on the defroster and the compressor kicked in, then the clutch would start slipping and burn itself up.
2. If the compressor locked up, then obviously the clutch OR belt would instantainily go up in smoke... this time it was the clutch.
I went outside after reading your post and plugged the compressor up. After I cycled the A/C on and off, the clutch was trying to engage, but there isn't any clutch material left and therefore it couldn't turn the compressor over. The new compressor I have is pretty easy to turn over by hand, BUT there is nothing to compress inside it. The one on the truck is impossible to turn over, with the belt still on because the bearings inside the clutch have since gone out and now the clutch is making a horrible noise.
Shouldn't this be an "either, or" situation? If the compressor locked up, the clutch should still run as an idler pully if it is UNPLUGGED from the wiring harness. If the clutch is all that went out, then I shouldn't need to replace the ENTIRE a/c system to fix it... right?
That is the exact same logic I used when this happened to my car. Clutch went out and I replaced the compressor (only because I couldn't figure out how to remove just the clutch back then). But when I took it to get charged, the dealership said I had "Black Death" and needed to replace the Compressor, accumulator, dryer, oriface tube, condenser, a low and a high pressure filter, along with both of those hoses, and the manifold. Quoted somewhere in the neighborhood of 2500 bucks including parts and labor.
The Chevy dealership here in town will do a purge, charge, and test for leaks for 110 bucks. I can buy the parts for my truck and install them myself for 500 bucks, and then have the Chevy guys do the rest. Grand total will be a bit over 600 dollars. OR, if it is just the clutch, I can put the new compressor on and then have the purge, charge, and leak test done... total, 110 bucks. (Or cheaper if I just replace the clutch and don't crack open any gas seals)
So... how hard should it be to turn the compressor over on a charged system by hand, and why would the compressor AND clutch bearings go at the exact same time on two different vehicles?
Last edited by Eco4Yankee; 04-11-2007 at 09:40 AM.