AC Compressor locked up - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 04-03-2007, 06:25 PM
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Exclamation AC Compressor locked up

It fried the clutch on the compressor. I really need to know if a compressor from a 97 7.3 E-350 will fit in place of my compressor on my 96 7.3 F-250 ASAP!!! I can get a Ford Remanufactured Compressor for the van from a guy that has one and didn't use it for 75 bucks. A remanufactured from Ford for my truck is about 300 bucks. BOTH WITH THE CLUTCH PREINSTALLED.

Autozone numbers are the same for compressors w/o clutchs but has different numbers for ones with clutchs pre-installed. However the clutches have the same numbers when bought alone FOR BOTH VEHICLES from Autozone. They are different numbers from Ford... but we all know how Ford is about their parts numbers.

Ford numbers are the same for the compressor with the clutch... except one of the sufix letters. Ford lists F77Z 19V703 VARM for the truck, and F77Z 19V703 XARM for the van for compressors with the clutch. Without the clutch they are the same parts numbers from Ford.

Autozone lists 2039N for the truck w/o the clutch and the same for the van, and again both clutches are the same number from Autozone.

Long story short, when purchased as two seperate items from Autozone they are the same numbers, but purchased gut together as one item the two are different numbers. From Ford, both compressors are exactly the same number, but the clutches are different numbers.

Who am I to believe? I know the compressor is EXACTLY the same, but are the clutchs different? Both are 8V clutchs. Autozone says they are the same... and Ford won't tell me one way or the other... just that the numbers are different.


On a side note... how do you know if a compressor is bad or just the clutch?

Last edited by Eco4Yankee; 04-03-2007 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:29 AM
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Question

I guess not many people here know A/C systems.

The E-350 compressor is the same as the F-250 despite differing parts numbers from Ford. I went ahead and bought the compressor for 75 bucks... better than 300 from Ford... or 200+ from Autozone.. for a Ford Factory compressor. I can actually thank NAPA and Autozone for the cross referencing. Either of them would sell the same compressor for either vehicle.

NOW....

How do I tell if my truck just fried the A/C clutch or if the compressor failed?
How do you test for Ford's "Black Death" of the A/C system?

I had the same thing happen to my Taurus a while back. Everything inside the system looked good, but when I went to have the system purged and charged at the dealer, they said my car had the black death and didn't charge me for the service. They said I would basically have to replace the ENTIRE system to get rid of it. About 2 grand. That was three years ago and I am still driving around with a brand new, never plugged up A/C compressor running as an idler pully. It still has the little plastic plugs in the plumbing connections! LOL
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:39 AM
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The reason for the different numbers could be the plug placement on the clutch. check where yours is located and compare the two.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:27 AM
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One way to tell if it is the compressor is to visualy see if the clutch is turning with the ac on if the belt is just sliping on the pully more than likely it is the compressor. if that is the case then you have to flush the system, raplace the accumulator and replace toe orrifive tube in the high pressure side. you will also have to replace the oil in the system with the correct type and amount.
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for the reply Jojo. The plug placement is the same as are the connectors. The guy at NAPA said the different parts numbers from Ford were due to an upgraded clutch. Otherwise, side by side, they are identical.

Now, as for my truck... I can thank my 7.3 PSD for not knowing something was wrong. First, I couldn't hear anything and second, I didn't feel anything lock up. I was just driving home and had the defroster on. Then I started seeing embers flying out from behind my truck. I drove about one mile more before stopping so that IF my truck were to go up in flames, I would have cell phone service to call the fire department, and also there was a gas station there and I figured they would have an extinguisher I could use. When I stopped I killed the engine and popped the hood. Smoke was coming from the clutch area of the compressor. I turned off the defroster, unplugged the compressor wiring and drove home. At this time there was NO bad noise from the clutch.

My thoughts are this:
1. If the clutch had worn itself out then when I turned on the defroster and the compressor kicked in, then the clutch would start slipping and burn itself up.
2. If the compressor locked up, then obviously the clutch OR belt would instantainily go up in smoke... this time it was the clutch.

I went outside after reading your post and plugged the compressor up. After I cycled the A/C on and off, the clutch was trying to engage, but there isn't any clutch material left and therefore it couldn't turn the compressor over. The new compressor I have is pretty easy to turn over by hand, BUT there is nothing to compress inside it. The one on the truck is impossible to turn over, with the belt still on because the bearings inside the clutch have since gone out and now the clutch is making a horrible noise.

Shouldn't this be an "either, or" situation? If the compressor locked up, the clutch should still run as an idler pully if it is UNPLUGGED from the wiring harness. If the clutch is all that went out, then I shouldn't need to replace the ENTIRE a/c system to fix it... right?

That is the exact same logic I used when this happened to my car. Clutch went out and I replaced the compressor (only because I couldn't figure out how to remove just the clutch back then). But when I took it to get charged, the dealership said I had "Black Death" and needed to replace the Compressor, accumulator, dryer, oriface tube, condenser, a low and a high pressure filter, along with both of those hoses, and the manifold. Quoted somewhere in the neighborhood of 2500 bucks including parts and labor.

The Chevy dealership here in town will do a purge, charge, and test for leaks for 110 bucks. I can buy the parts for my truck and install them myself for 500 bucks, and then have the Chevy guys do the rest. Grand total will be a bit over 600 dollars. OR, if it is just the clutch, I can put the new compressor on and then have the purge, charge, and leak test done... total, 110 bucks. (Or cheaper if I just replace the clutch and don't crack open any gas seals)

So... how hard should it be to turn the compressor over on a charged system by hand, and why would the compressor AND clutch bearings go at the exact same time on two different vehicles?

Last edited by Eco4Yankee; 04-11-2007 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:59 AM
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Eco4Yankee, what wound up being the solution to your AC problem? My 96 f250 is not blowing cold anymore. I still need get under the hood and watch the compressor action to see if the clutch engages or not. I don't hear any sqealing or see any sparks like you did when I looked under there. All I did was wiggle the connections to make sure nothing was loose. I read that some others got theirs working again because of loose connections.

Mine stopped blowing cold for a few days but started up again and was great for a couple of months until recently. Now it's just the hot air from the engine compartment coming in...plus the 100+ temperatures from outside that we are getting here in Texas.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbrotherx View Post
Eco4Yankee, what wound up being the solution to your A/C compressor problem? My 96 f250 is not blowing cold anymore. I still need get under the hood and watch the compressor action to see if the clutch engages or not. I don't hear any sqealing or see any sparks like you did when I looked under there. All I did was wiggle the connections to make sure nothing was loose. I read that some others got theirs working again because of loose connections.

Mine stopped blowing cold for a few days but started up again and was great for a couple of months until recently. Now it's just the hot air from the engine compartment coming in...plus the 100+ temperatures from outside that we are getting here in Texas.
bump! looks like i am not the only one having this kind of problem. well i learn some few techniques to make cooling inside the truck a little bit faster than normal. i just always pour lots of water to my radiator before starting my engine. but of course you cannot do that all the time. there are times that my truck is not really blowing cold air and it is really tough to diagnose it. i thought i dont have any more freon but i am wrong.

Last edited by greywarden; 10-14-2011 at 04:57 PM.
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