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Started, idled, and died

2K views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  Shelly 
#1 ·
I need some help. It's about 12 degrees out right now. Started my truck up this morning, had it plugged in last night, and it started just fine. It was idling for about 10 minutes, the EBPV came on for high idle, and then just died. Now it won't start back up. I have my fuel treated with the white Diesel Kleen, checked the fuel bowl and it was full, unplugged the batteries for a few minutes, and nothing. The starter turns over just fine, but it just won't start. The only weird thing I noticed is now the "Wait to Start" light on the dash does not come on when I turn the key. I just put a new Stancor GPR in it a few weeks ago. Help!
 
#3 ·
first thing you need to do is pull the # 22 maxi fuse under the hood and look to see if its blown. Thats the fuel bowl heater fuse and its also connected to the PCM. sounds like why your wait to start light aint comin on anymore. Thats where you need to start.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Im dealing with a simular situation, Ill let you know what the shop says tomorrow -
they are keeping it over night again.

So far they have come back to me with the EDT valve sticking in the turbo -

Oh yeah check the computer - might be relizing somthing is wrong and keeping it shut down

Good luck
 
#5 ·
Well, I unplugged the fuel bowl heater connection, replaced the #30 mini fuse under the dash with a 30amp (it was blown), and my truck started right up. Thanks for the help on this.

I drove to the grocery store and smelled diesel, so I popped the hood and I had fuel spraying all over the place. I guess I didn't tighten the fuel bowl cover all the way down! Does somebody make a fuel bowl cover that I can put a 1/2" drive or some sort of tool on? I've just been using some channel pliers that work ok, but I wish I could use a better tool.
 
#7 ·
Any of the fuel bowls for the 2000-2003 have the socket adapter on them and they will fit your rig. Same filter as well. Just look it up at autozone or where ever you buy your filters.
 
#9 ·
Shelly did you find out what was wrong with your truck.
 
#10 ·
Not 100% sure yet.
As of this morning it is still torn apart. They are trying to clean up that EDT valve in the turbo that was sticking - It was holding up the exhaust back pressure and causing it to shut down. We are hoping this will work without needing a new turbo - or rebuild...

My other electrical starting problems seem to be solved with changing the fuse box last week becasue it was corroded - due to a bad seal - I guess it is common in this year of pick up-

Any other ideas? The more info the better- Im not trying to thread jack
 
#14 ·
Where is the seal that goes bad? Maybe I can replace mine before it does the same thing. Was that a specific problem for 2000 trucks?
 
#13 ·
Here's a write up on the fuel bowl heater elements-apparently there is a newer design:

TikiWiki : 94-97 PSD Fuel Heater Upgrade

It outlines a retro fit from the old to the new on 94-97 PSDs. Does anybody know if the newer element will drop right into a '99 fuel bowl? I haven't pulled the filter out and looked in.
Here are the part numbers:

The old style is around $40 from Ford, and $30 from International.
The newer style is $120 from Ford, but only $37 from International.

Old Style: (Ford PN F5TZ-9J294-A) (International PN 1825186C91)
New Style: (Ford PN F81Z-9J294-AA) (International PN 1831196C92)
 
#17 ·
No problem on the thread jack-glad your truck is running.

I'm having a different problem now-my truck is intermittently not starting. I turn the key to the on position, and the lights in the dash are really dim, and I hear a clicking noise like the turn signal is on. No start. I found if I pull Relay #1-Electric Flasher out of the fuse panel the clicking stops. The dome light flashes on and off with the clicking noise. If I turn on the headlights the clicking stops. If I close the door the clicking stops. If I put on the hazard lights there is a buzzing noise. It has happened twice today-the first time I turned the lights on, tried again and it started. I replaced Relay #1, same thing. I tested the batteries, and both were around 12.8 volts. Tested while the truck was running and one battery tested at 14.8 and the other at 12.8. As soon as I hooked the batteries back up it started no problem. Drove home 35 miles over a mountain pass and no problems. Any ideas?
 
#19 ·
I tested them one at a time, unhooked. While the truck was running I tested them while they were both hooked up.
 
#20 ·
When they are both hooked they are in paralell, like it's just one big 12 volt battery with A LOT of cranking amps. If one is bad and the other is good, one will try to support the other while they are in paralell so you can't get a really good reading that way.
 
#21 ·
BioStroker

That is some of what my pickup was doing before I had to have the darn fuse box panel replaced. But while on the machine it kicked back the fault codes for every electric part of the truck. My fuse box was real corroded - Im sure you would be able to see if that was the case.
Also - right now the truck is idling and starting like it should, (the cleaning of the EDT valve worked) but my left blinker still works intermitant and there is a electric connection noise when you start the pickup under the dash still- so the next thing that will be looked at this week is the ECM. It could be two diffent things but you never know - I will let you know what gets figured out :) Its a good thing I dont have a life because this would get in the way
 
#22 ·
Bio...

Ok as of this morning... same freaking issues... the truck just got picked up and taken back to the shop.

The blinker - dash issue Im being told is becasue of the Multi Fuction Switch

I hope your issues are different than mine, let me know if you want status if yours still acts up
 
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