Started, idled, and died

[BioStroker]

Originally Posted by Shelly

Not 100% sure yet.
As of this morning it is still torn apart. They are trying to clean up that EDT valve in the turbo that was sticking - It was holding up the exhaust back pressure and causing it to shut down. We are hoping this will work without needing a new turbo - or rebuild...

My other electrical starting problems seem to be solved with changing the fuse box last week becasue it was corroded - due to a bad seal - I guess it is common in this year of pick up-

Any other ideas? The more info the better- Im not trying to thread jack

What year is your truck?

[Shelly]

It is a 2000 F250 7.3

[BioStroker]

Here's a write up on the fuel bowl heater elements-apparently there is a newer design:

TikiWiki : 94-97 PSD Fuel Heater Upgrade

It outlines a retro fit from the old to the new on 94-97 PSDs. Does anybody know if the newer element will drop right into a '99 fuel bowl? I haven't pulled the filter out and looked in.
Here are the part numbers:

The old style is around $40 from Ford, and $30 from International.
The newer style is $120 from Ford, but only $37 from International.

Old Style: (Ford PN F5TZ-9J294-A) (International PN 1825186C91)
New Style: (Ford PN F81Z-9J294-AA) (International PN 1831196C92)

[BioStroker]

Originally Posted by Shelly

It is a 2000 F250 7.3

Where is the seal that goes bad? Maybe I can replace mine before it does the same thing. Was that a specific problem for 2000 trucks?

[Shelly]

Originally Posted by BioStroker

Where is the seal that goes bad? Maybe I can replace mine before it does the same thing. Was that a specific problem for 2000 trucks?

It was the seal around the windshield, Ford said there was a quite a few that did not have a good seal when this model year came out and water would run down the firewall and cause the issues under the dash pannel. How the heck it corroded the entire fuse box Im not sure but it did a number on it. New part is about $1100.00.

I bought this pick up used of course and it was abused

[Shelly]

Originally Posted by MINIs1094

Shelly did you find out what was wrong with your truck.

BioStroker- Im sorry for the thread jack

Truck is back and so far so good. I'll know better in the morning. They cleaned the EDT valve. Put it back in and she is idling & running much better now...
This might be a real cheep fix for me

[BioStroker]

No problem on the thread jack-glad your truck is running.

I'm having a different problem now-my truck is intermittently not starting. I turn the key to the on position, and the lights in the dash are really dim, and I hear a clicking noise like the turn signal is on. No start. I found if I pull Relay #1-Electric Flasher out of the fuse panel the clicking stops. The dome light flashes on and off with the clicking noise. If I turn on the headlights the clicking stops. If I close the door the clicking stops. If I put on the hazard lights there is a buzzing noise. It has happened twice today-the first time I turned the lights on, tried again and it started. I replaced Relay #1, same thing. I tested the batteries, and both were around 12.8 volts. Tested while the truck was running and one battery tested at 14.8 and the other at 12.8. As soon as I hooked the batteries back up it started no problem. Drove home 35 miles over a mountain pass and no problems. Any ideas?

[jesilvas]

Weird.
When you tested them, did you test them separately or together? As in with the cables connecting the in paralell or not connected?

[BioStroker]

I tested them one at a time, unhooked. While the truck was running I tested them while they were both hooked up.

[jesilvas]

When they are both hooked they are in paralell, like it's just one big 12 volt battery with A LOT of cranking amps. If one is bad and the other is good, one will try to support the other while they are in paralell so you can't get a really good reading that way.