6.0 Nightmare No start

[TimF07]

I am going to try and keep this short but I am having a problem (or a few) with my truck. I have 2005 F-350 6.0L diesel with about 205,000 miles on it. Last Saturday I went to start my truck and it would crank, sound like it's going to start, and nothing. I tried for a little bit and finally with some help from starter fluid (I know, big no no) got it to start. Worked fine for the rest of the day turning off and starting, no problems. Sunday morning go out to start it and nothing, hasn't started since. I replaced the fuel filters and the batteries about 2 weeks ago. Got it up to a diesel shop the other day. This morning they called and said: No codes, HPOP looks good (I was sweating that one) fuel pressure good. No clues. After lunch they called me back and said they got some codes.

The codes are:
P0611 FICM death code
P2614
P2617
P0336 all three CMP codes

He said he reset the codes and only got the CMP codes back. Here are my questions:

1. If the FICM was dead why would I be able to get it started on Sat and the code not showing up again?
2. I have been told that the bad CMP codes could be from a bad FICM and they are fine?
3. If the CMP is bad would the Crankshaft sensor be bad also?
4. I really don't want to start throwing money at this truck but should I replace the CMP to see if that starts it?
5. What else could be wrong?

Thanks everyone for your help, I am at a loss.

Tim

[chuckwagon009]

I would say the ficm is gone. Sometime when a resistor/diode/capacitor is on it's way out the component will work under higher voltages till it shuts down and (unwelds) releaves it's self. Then the component is gone forever. If you had high enough volts from generating the alt good while powering glowplugs/starter/aih then the ficm would cause a good solder (weld) connection from heat and connet on the ficm board till it cooled and the connection recessed from heat worse than the first restart with eather.

The codes usually point to the direction of the ficm, and I've seen plenty of them go bad. Had a service rig that had a intermittent bad miss traced to a water spot in the ficm that corroded the circuit board. I had dang near 10 codes that had nothing to do with the ficm. But low and behold!!!

It's an expensive part, enclose it in some plasic/spray and add a 12v computer fan to the bottom to suck any moisture and be happy for years to come. Should have been a recall, done it to 10+ trucks so far and not a single complaint. Most being used 40-50k miles a year and year round.....

[CaDieselGuy]

Tim-You've got a bad FICM. Although you have several codes they can all be caused by stalling. The FICM P0611 is a FICM performance code that can only be set if the FICM MPWR led drops below 42V. I would recommend replacing the FICM and checking charging system voltage. The most common cause of FICM failures are low battery voltage. Low voltage makes it harder for the FICM to convert the 12v supply to the desired 48V required for proper injector operation. FICM failure will cause a hard start cold and a no start concern. It is also effected by temperature differences. Cold=bad, warm=ok. I believe it is due to the extra amp draw from the glow plug "on" times. Also when replacing the FICM have a Ford dealer do it as you need to program the FICM when installed and there is a new calibration available that improves cold start, VGT operation and fuel economy.

[TimF07]

Thanks guys,

one thing i forgot was this truck as never stalled on me. Well i was going to have the guy put a new CMP on it in the morning but i will stop him. i guess i will bite it and get a new ficm. What cost should i be looking at for this?

Also chuckwagon could you send me pics of that ficm mod?

Thanks again guys

Tim

[chuckwagon009]

I'll have to look in the library of pics to see if I can find them. The last one I did consisted of two small holes drilled upwards facing on each side, the bottom had 4 with a 12v common computer fan exhausting the ficm. Digital pyrometer showed it close to 75 degerees cooler than a stock unit, and guaranteed if you don't submerge it'll stay dry. The trick I found is a (light) coat of herculiner (bed coat/rhinoliner). Just be very carefull as to not get the connector on the ficm as the herculiner is VERY STICKY and will be a bear to get off. When I get out of work I'll see if I can find the pics for you.