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Old 11-04-2011, 06:25 AM
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2006 6.0 Build, stage 1

Ok guy's, I want to start documenting my buildup. I'm going to call this stage 1, for lack of a better term. This may be a few weeks pre-mature, but I'm excited to get it started. "stage 1" is going to consist primarily of bulletproofing the motor so I can then slowly start adding more powah. Currently the truck is pushing coolant (wow, really Mike? Say it isn't so, I hardly ever see 6.0's push coolant!). So I'm rocking stock tuning, and it's slower than I care to mention. Painfully slow. I can't drive it like this. How does anyone drive one of these stock?

So the plans right now are to basically get the headgasket situation squared away. I've been scouring the forums and ebay to find deals on all the parts I need (buying new everything). I've done a pretty good job thus far. I will be lifting the cab at a buddies house, and hopefully have it turned around in a weeks time frame working only nights after my day job. I am also going to be adding a few more gauges and making a few more tweaks to my vegistroke system at the same time, so some of these parts are not parts you would need for headgaskets, rather they are for my vegistroke.

Parts list so far:
ARP headstuds (re-using mine from the first time the dealer installed them, after verification that they are still in spec for length, i.e. not overtorqued).
OEM Ford headgaskets 18mm (for those that don't know 6.0's started with 18mm dowels in the blocks/heads. They later changed the block and head design. They also have stepped dowels to use the 20mm heads on the 18mm blocks. The 20mm heads were part of the parts commonization when going to the 6.4, since they use an almost identical head)
OEM Ford standpipes/dummyplugs these are part of the high pressure oil system and are known to leak past the o-rings, they sell and updated kit for this, which I am putting in while I'm in there.
OEM Ford updated STC fitting this is a high pressure oil line fitting coming off of the HPOP, they were known to crack from the vibration of the motor, this is a much improved design. These are known to crack and cause a no-start condition when warm.
OEM Ford oil cooler rebuild kit my delta in temps between oil and coolant are actually within spec, but I'm not going to skip this being in that far, it just doesn't make sense.
OEM Ford updated HPOP screen the old screens were a fiber material and 99/100 times you pull it out to find it torn and who knows where those fibers go... the new updated one is a stainless mesh.
OEM Ford updated IPR screen/o-rings again, screen update from fiber to stainless mesh
OEM Ford exhaust manifold gaskets they don't come with these from the factory, but once you break the seal it's almost impossible to get them sealed again, and they're $10 per side... silly not to use them.
Victor Reinz intake/top end gasket kit this kit just has a ton of misc o-rings, including all of the o-rings for the injectors as well as new copper crush washers. This is not the headgaskets, I'm using OEM headgaskets. Victor Reinz is what the black onyx are, except companies buy the VR gaskets and then tell you their "black onyx" and double the price on them...
Stainless braided fuel lines for vegistroke these lines come from the "T" coming out of the pump manifold and feed into the back of the heads on the 6.0. The one's that come with the kit are rubber. They work fine, but they become brittle after a year or so, due to the WVO inside of them and the extreme heat on the outside of them. They lay on the back of the motor and are VERY close to the up-pipes. These stainless braided jobs are rubber coated as well to not tear through anything.

Other notes of interest regarding the different years of 6.0's:

2003 were the only motors to have the straight oil rails to feed the injectors. 04 and up use wavy rails (more volume) and the stand pipes and dummy plugs to block off the un-used holes that were used on the 03 motors only.

Any 6.0 built after 1/15/2006 would have the 20mm block and 20mm heads. Anything previous to this would have 18mm. My build date according to my door jamb is 11/2005

Any truck that has a replacement head from Ford would have a 20mm head, since Ford only used 20mm heads after this point, so if an 03/04 truck went in for service it would have got a new 20mm head and the dowel kit for 18 to 20mm.

18mm heads use a T-40 injector hold down and 20mm use a T-45. They must be used with the corresponding heads. So if you have a 18mm block/head combo and replace one head with a 20mm, you need the other injector hold downs.

The same goes for the rocker boxes, you need the according rocker boxes for the heads you have.

Confused yet? Can you tell I've done a ton of research on this yet?

The biggest gray area is still block prep. You can see how crucial it is to have the heads/gaskets in top shape, same goes for the block and I'm still researching this. I probably wont know what way I'm going until I do it, but I'll let you guys know which way I go.

Other things I plan on doing while the cab is off and while I'm at it: (some of these parts I already have, and just waiting to put them on, others are more of a wish list, but it will happen at some point)
Isspro EV2 coolant temp gauge (have this, it's going on to help get a better feeling of how my vegistroke is working and do double duty to monitor ECT vs EOT to know how my oil cooler is holding up)
Isspro EV2 oil temp gauge (don't have this yet, might need 2 of these too... one for actual oil temp, the other to measure the WVO temp as it's going into the motor, so I KNOW what is getting burned.
Converting vegistroke to HIH setup vs the current HOH (HIH stands for hose in hose for my non-veg friends. HOH is hose on hose. Hose on hose is basically two coolant lines, and two fuel lines, all separate. I put them together and wrap them in insulation to keep heat in. Hose in hose is exactly what it sounds like. I'll have a 3/8 aluminum tube INSIDE of my 3/4" coolant hose. Coolant will flow one way, fuel the other way so it is maximizing heat transfer to the WVO in the fuel line).
OEM Ford 2008 trans pan and filter just updating the trans pan will allow the use of the much larger 2008 filter for the 5R110. I don't have this yet and will probably do it after the headgaskets
OEM Ford 2008 diff cover this cover is an all aluminum finned cover. It will bolt right up with new hardware (08 cover requires longer bolts) I already have this sitting on the bench.
OEM Ford chrome front bumper mashed mine up when I hit a deer at 45mph. Been trying to get one on the forums and it's near impossible, they sell as fast as they pop up for the 99-04 guys trying to do the 05-07 front end. Might just get new, they're only about $300, not too shabby.
OEM Ford waterpump
OEM Ford thermostat - don't really NEED either of these, but it's a 20 min job with the cab off and probably a 4 hour job with it on... common sense here.
Custom intake manifold the stocker is the most restrictive part on the entire air intake system of these motors. The back cylinders only get about half the volume of air as the front cylinders. I need to machine the top of the manifold right off, open it up on the mill, then come up with a custom cover that either bolts back on or weld one on. GoGo diesel sells them, they're $1200. I can make my own out of a spare manifold I have sitting here, so might as well give it a try!
58V FICM some of you know I fix my own dead FICM's now, and have recently sourced all the parts to bump it from 48V to 58V, so going to try it, have a few spare FICM's laying around to try it on, might as well! I may also try a "tuned" 48V FICM too, just to see the difference. It's $200 to get one tuned. Not sure yet which direction I'm going...
GoGo diesel direct solenoid this solenoid replaces the direct drive solenoid in the trans, it is an electronic device that controls the flow of fluid, the GoGo unit flows something like 150% more fluid, 2x faster, so it will save shifts. It runs about $150

Ok so the plan is to lift the cab, yank my heads off and go to town. My buddy also has a complete spare set of 18mm heads he's willing to swap me. I'm going to take those heads and get them machined/magnafluxed/pressure tested. That way I have the heads ready to go when mine come off. I take mine off, clean block, slap the reworked 18mm heads on. While the cab is off, I will update all of those OEM Ford parts I listed above, try and clean up a bit under the hood and get it squared away. I'm sure the parts list will grow slightly more than this as I go and as I remember, but I figure I will at least get this down in writing and start the documentation process of it. After this is situated, I will run the truck for a while with it just tuned. Sometime next summer I will probably start putting a little power to it. I'm thinking along the lines of some 155 or 190cc injectors (stock are rated at 135cc, but most flow closer to 100-110cc), and a turbo upgrade (depends what injectors I go with) but the powermax seems like a nice compromise for either of those injectors. 190's and a powermax should get me into the low to mid 500 rwhp range, which should make for a decently fun street truck and still allow me to tow stuff like my camper and the occasional chevy that breaks down. 190's are probably good for close to 600 rwhp on fuel only, depending on turbo, but I'd like to save my drivability and towing capabilities too, so there must be a compromise and I can't afford twins. I also should be fine on the stock trans at that power level as long as I don't beat the piss out of it every day. At least at that point I wont mind spending money to do some small upgrades to the trans. The stock 5R110 is pretty stout though.

If anyone reading this needs any P/N's or prices or anything of the sort, feel free to ask away.
I will also start taking pics of parts and take a TON of pics when I'm doing the actual tear down. Really looking forward to this.

If the motor doesn't hold up after this head job, I am going to SERIOUSLY look into doing a cum-apart swap. As much as it would kill me to do so, it just wouldn't make sense past this to "try again"... I have faith this will work though. I've done my research and put the time in, now it's time to hunker down and DO WORK.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:36 AM
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One hell of a project! Looks fun! I want to do that to my truck, no funds or time to do that. (it's my daily driver).
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom-3k View Post
One hell of a project! Looks fun! I want to do that to my truck, no funds or time to do that. (it's my daily driver).
Same here, no money or time. However, my truck has been to the dealer for service before and spent MONTHS there, so I figure the week or two weeks I'll have it down for this should be a walk in the park at this point. I've been buying parts here and there, it's been tough.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdub707 View Post
Same here, no money or time. However, my truck has been to the dealer for service before and spent MONTHS there, so I figure the week or two weeks I'll have it down for this should be a walk in the park at this point. I've been buying parts here and there, it's been tough.
Thats def the way to do then!!!! Take a lot of pics for us lol
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:53 PM
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I dropped off 2 sets of heads to the machine shop on Monday, Wednesday afternoon I got the call they were all set to go! So I think I'm more or less ready to rip in, now it's just setting up a time with Dazdillinger to to rip the cab off!
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:44 PM
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so how goes the project? you ready to do mine yet? ha your gona have to come down for a weekend
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:38 AM
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I have everything sitting on my kitchen table, just waiting to set up a time with Dazdillinger to pull the cab. Probably start sometime after the holidays here. I'm eager to get it done.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:43 PM
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let me know when your gona do it i will try to swing out.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:07 AM
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Ok man, will do. I got a few guys who have offered to help, so it should go pretty quick. The most time consuming thing is cleaning the block up for the new gaskets and stupid little things like cleaning parts that are getting re-used and replacing o-rings etc. Can't wait to do this!
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