Upgrading an early 99 turbo

[alabamafrog]

As most of you know you can find lots of parts for 99.5-03 but few folks mention the early 99. I want to get a good aftermarket turbo but want to do it as cheap as possible. Also I want to remove the EBPV and my Y collector has a stripped up pipe bolt in it and my donut gaskets keep leaking. What are the options for early 99 upgrades?

[pipelayerjdh]

Look at Beans Diesel Performance

I think you can get a d66.

[strokin_early_99]

Call and talk to Bean. He has a 1.0 wastegated exhaust housing. Plus he has a 1.15 exhaust housing non-wastegated that must be used with his van high flow outlet.

Then add a turbomaster wastegate controller or a big head wastegate controller.


That is it my friend for upgrades other than the real deal, the D66.

[alabamafrog]

Since I have a leaky pedestal and a bad up pipe Y would I be better off fixing that stuff and going with the D66 or the better housings or should I get a different pedestal an Up pipe setup with a upgraded turbo?
What is the best setup for an early 99?
What is the cheapest setup that will work well on an early 99?

[strokin_early_99]

IMHO, the D66 is the cheapest, smartest and easiest upgrade. $1325 for a turbo that will make tons of power if you ever want to tap it. $155 for new up pipes if they are needed. If you want to seal them so they will never lead then get Beans new up pipe donuts, $89. Guaranteed to seal, even old up pipes, and not to blow out. I know of a guy that made 496hp with a D66 and hybrids. I made over 450hp with my old D66.

If you go with the conversion. You will need a intake Y((spyder)$100), intake plenums($65 pair), pedestal($125), up pipes($115). A GT38R or a TN BB is $1550, no core is required. With a total cost of about $2000+ with all the freight charges added.

Let me know if I can offer any more info.

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Last edited by strokin_early_99 : 12-16-2007 at 09:03 PM.

[alabamafrog]

That makes sense, so I just need a $1325 turbo and fix my pedestal leak and fix the stripped hole in my Up pipe Y and I should be good to go. Is it okay to wait until my factory turbo self destructs?
Thanks for all the info.

[Builttuff]

Hey Alabama. I looked at your pics and was wondering what controls the EBPV? Is it something that can be unplugged or do I have to wire it open like you did? If I wire it open will my engine get to cold while driving? I can be going down the interstate now and it closes a little.

[strokin_early_99]

Originally Posted by Builttuff

Hey Alabama. I looked at your pics and was wondering what controls the EBPV? Is it something that can be unplugged or do I have to wire it open like you did? If I wire it open will my engine get to cold while driving? I can be going down the interstate now and it closes a little.

Unplug it is all that is needed however wiring it is good insurance.

[Farmertom390]

I'll second the D66 from beans. I just got mine on a week ago but I love it. I have 1200 miles on the truck in that past week and it has ran great. It hits up in the rpm range making high boost and doesnt fall flat on its face like the stock turbo. It is going to be 1600 bucks though after shipping before you send your stock turbo back, then shipping back to them. An oil change is costing about $50 these days and they recommend a new air filter when you do it to depending on what filter you have. Not that if you have the truck you arent going to be changing the oil and stuff anyhow, but just incase you are pinching pennies that there are other little costs. All in all i give the D66

[strokin_early_99]

oil change and a new air filter? That is a new one there. I am going to have to call ****** to find out what is up.