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Old 12-21-2012, 09:00 AM
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Changing Serpetine Belt & Alternator?

Well I fired up the van after several weeks and noticed the smell of rubber and by the time I could pop the hood I hear a swooosh slap and the engine had this nice quite smooth running sound.
I find the belt broke & the Alternator frooze... I was able to free the alt, but after 8yrs I guess its time to replace it.
Looking in there it looks like a major job to get to the belt pullys etc.
The Alt. looks somewhat easy as its up on top... but the way Ford crammed everything in these vans... still looks like a nightmare!
I have a few questions? ...
1. What size Alt do I need for the Van? I'm seeing 'dual alt' systems and ampreges from 110 to 135 amps. I think I only have a single alt and I just checked the 'window sticker' from when I bought it and in the Standard Equipment portion under 'functional' it states: HD Alternator/HD Battery.
Under optional equip. it does not mention any info on Alt.
Any help or insite/tricks/tips on replacing belt/alt would be great.
Thanks
Tom
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:34 PM
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everyone thinks the e-series are so terrible to work on. they aren't, really. there is ample room to work on everything. the key is knowing the sequence to how it all comes apart.
for the belt, i would remove the outer shroud. it comes out super easy. first, open the hood all the way back to the windshield. it will stay there on its own. this makes it so much nicer to work on. remove the plastic front informational cover. remove the power steering reservoir bracket. disconnect the upper rad hose from the rad. remove the 2 8mm bolts at the top of the shroud. remove the 2 8mm bolts, from underneath, at the bottom of the shroud. the shroud is now ready to be removed. lift the shroud straight up and out. it will be tight. but it will go. just keep pulling. now that the shrouds out, you have much more room to get at the tensioner and flip its kickstand up through the fan stator. if you really want to make life easy, you can now remove the fan and stator. at this point, its not much more work to do this. or you can work around it.

another trick with the vans, for future reference, is to remove the power steering bracket, then remove all the bolts that hold the body harness to the cowl. now, flip the harness up and zip tie it to the windshield wiper arm. you now magically have a tonne of room to see and work on the top of the engine.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaya@bernhausen View Post
everyone thinks the e-series are so terrible to work on. they aren't, really. there is ample room to work on everything. the key is knowing the sequence to how it all comes apart.
for the belt, i would remove the outer shroud. it comes out super easy. first, open the hood all the way back to the windshield. it will stay there on its own. this makes it so much nicer to work on. remove the plastic front informational cover. remove the power steering reservoir bracket. disconnect the upper rad hose from the rad. remove the 2 8mm bolts at the top of the shroud. remove the 2 8mm bolts, from underneath, at the bottom of the shroud. the shroud is now ready to be removed. lift the shroud straight up and out. it will be tight. but it will go. just keep pulling. now that the shrouds out, you have much more room to get at the tensioner and flip its kickstand up through the fan stator. if you really want to make life easy, you can now remove the fan and stator. at this point, its not much more work to do this. or you can work around it.

another trick with the vans, for future reference, is to remove the power steering bracket, then remove all the bolts that hold the body harness to the cowl. now, flip the harness up and zip tie it to the windshield wiper arm. you now magically have a tonne of room to see and work on the top of the engine.
SWEET!!!
Thank you so much
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, HVAC for 30yrs and always did my own work on the family autos and for those jobs like these had a mechanic friend who passed from cancer a few yrs back. And as you all know a great mechanic is hard to find.
Anyway these diesels (engine) are way beyond my comfort level. I posted on the general board and someone said I needed to remove the rad & condensor and my heart sank as I remember (back in the day) just getting a new belt, slipping it over all the pulleys & fan... getting a big breaker bar and prying the alt while tightening it up and poof done.

So with that said... I have a few more questions if you have the time...

now that the shrouds out, you have much more room to get at the tensioner and flip its kickstand up through the fan stator. if you really want to make life easy, you can now remove the fan and stator.

Tensioner 'kickstand' up through the fan stator?

Fan & Stator? is that the fan/clutch assem? And it that easy to remove once the shroud is out of the way?

Frankly I want to do as least as possible, the last time I had the t-stat replaced they needed to torch the bolts to get them out. This van has run flawless for yrs and never needed any major work etc so all these bolts etc. have never been touched since the vehicle was assm.

Thank you again for all your help and write up... this site is great!
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:48 PM
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the rad does not need to come out. nor the condenser. the rad actually bolts to the intercooler, which both come out as a unit. the condenser stays behind. that's just a little FYI, in case you do ever need to remove the rad. believe me, i've gone through all of the trial and error with the 6.0l e-series. i know them just as well as the f-series. that's why i don't mind them at all. the rad rarely needs to be removed to perform any services on the front of the engine (aside from actually replacing the rad or intercooler itself). maybe to replace the front timing cover, but that's about it. and even then, you could probably do without. but i like to work comfortably. if somethings easier to remove than to work around, i do it. once the shroud, fan and stator are removed, you open up plenty of room.

but anyways, the shroud is the portion around the fan that bolts to the rad. it has a sticker on top. of what, i can't recall. caution sticker maybe. but anyways, the shroud bolts to the rad (2 8mm head bolts up top, 2 on the bottom, bolting it to the lower shroud. the stator is what bolts to the engine. basically like a rear shroud. there should be 4 or 5 15mm head bolts securing it to the engine. once the shroud is unbolted and lifted straight up and out of the vehicle, you can access the bolts holding the stator to the engine. since the fan sits in front of the stator, it must be removed first. use an air hammer with the appropriate size fan clutch wrench to remove. it is right hand thread, so turn counter clockwise to loosen. you must disconnect the vistronic fan clutch and speed sensor from the engine harness up top before removing fan. once fan is removed, unbolt the stator from the engine and lift it out of the vehicle. now you have access to everything at the front of the engine.
use a 1/2" square drive to turn the tensioner clockwise. there is a spring loaded "kickstand" at the bottom of the tensioner. turn the tensioner clockwise and flip the kickstand up. that locks the tensioner in place with tension removed. to release from kickstand, just turn tensioner clockwise and the kickstand flips out.
reverse removal.

and don't worry about the comfort level. as i'm sure you're realizing, this site is full of members who know their stuff. gotta love the internet. just hit up google and you can find an answer. not always the right one though haha. the problems are more complex than they used to be, as vehicles have become more complex. however, our tools and resources have evolved at the same rate. it's all relative. keeping up to date with those tools is what keeps you ahead of the game. that is the real limitation
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:16 PM
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don't you have to pull the fan and stator out at once if you are removing them without removing the cooling module?

also use a backup wrench when removing the lower stator bolts or you risk breaking the stator
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:45 PM
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^^you might need to. it's been a while. but yea, the fan clutch hub may not squeeze past unless the stator comes out with. not really any more difficult though.
excellent advice with getting a wrench on the stator spacer
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:05 PM
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Kaya... thanks so much... you too Sinner and yes the internet is a blessing... I'm on a motorcycle forum that has saved me not only time but a boatload of money in mod'n and maintaining my bikes... and though relatively new to this site I can see it has the same camaraderie

After I remove the shroud, do you all think its possible to snake the serpentine belt around/over the fan/clutch stator assm.? and be able to get it all hooked up and get the tensioner adjusted?

I also have to change out the alternator, which caused all this trouble (froze) and it sits up on top and looks pretty straight forward. Someone said its the 140amp HD style.

OHHHH one last question... on this post ... does the waterpump function in this 6.0 diesel once the serpentine belt breaks or is the pump connected to some internal shaft on the engine?
I need to move the van into the backyard and don't want to overheat or warp the heads etc.

Thanks again
Tom
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:38 PM
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the pump is run off the belt. you can move it though. just don't run it for longer than a few minutes. and make sure all of the old belt is out from behind the crank pulley.

you can install the belt with the stator and fan still on. it's not as fun though. if getting the fan off is your concern, at least detach the stator from the engine. as sinner has mentioned, use a wrench to hold the spacer behind the stator while you turn the bolts. there is one spacer on the drivers side lower. possibly one on the passanger side lower as well. don't recall ATM. i think they were 15/16". or 7/8". one of the two. you won't be able to remove the stator, of course, but it will give you a lot more room to maneuvre the belt on. the only tricky part in doing the belt on a 6l is slipping it behind and over the tensioner pulley. it takes a bit of finesse, but you'll get it. you have no choice! haha.

if you have anymore enquiries, don't hesitate.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:44 AM
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Kaya... thanks again... call me stupid... and the I haven't looked at the van since I'm away from home for the holidays (I was going to use it for the holidays and thats when the belt smoked)... anyway... I'm at a loss as to what the 'stator' is? I've downloaded some 6.0 powerstroke manuals over the yrs, but they don't show this stator or fan/clutch assm. or a diagram of how the belt is routed, just the engine. I originally thought your talking about the fan clutch i.e. the 'stator' but reading all your replies I can see I'm wrong. Any brief description and location of this stator? Sounds sorta like a idler pully, but I'm sure that wrong too

Also I'm almost certain that this van is a single alternator and the oem window sticker said 'HD Alternator' so looking for a replacement... there are several amperage ratings... is this critical to replace with the same amperage that is on the vehicle?

Thank you
Tom
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:36 AM
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the stator is kind of like a shroud. it's the large black plastic piece that bolts to the engine, behind the fan. it spans the circumference of the fan. it's the part that the fan clutch wiring clips onto. you'll see when you get the shroud off.

for the alternator, i would call ford with the last 8 digits of your VIN. with that info, they can tell you which alternator you have in there
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