Removing front rotors on 2000 E-450 SD - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 04-29-2012, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Removing front rotors on 2000 E-450 SD

I've got wobbly front rotors on my 2000 e-450 Super Duty 2WD with ABS. They need to be replaced but I'm not sure how the rotors come off. Looks like the rotor is the hub with a grease cap on the outside but I don't want to go forcing anything.

So, is this a hub with repackable bearings or is there a sealed hub behind it? Any tips on getting them off?

Thanx - Rick
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post #2 of 7 Old 04-29-2012, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I got motivated and pulled the rotors. Turns out they are an integrated hub and rotor assembly with conventional wheel bearings. There is an ABS sensor on the back of the rotor but no sealed hub like so many vehicles have these days.
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post #3 of 7 Old 04-30-2012, 01:29 PM
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yep, heavy aren't they? So how do the bearings look?

2001 Ford E350 7.3 Extended Cargo Van

BTS Transmission, PHP Minotaur package, 4" exhaust/downpipe, Honey Badger jr., FRX, HPX, AIH delete, Fuel bowl mod, Hypermax Boost/Pyro gauge, 4.10 rear.
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post #4 of 7 Old 05-01-2012, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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Those rotors weigh more than my first car!!

Bearings look good - clean and bright. The one rotor had a visible wobble and both had been turned a time or two. Time for some new iron. I haven't done a brake job since the 70's and it was comforting to see something under the hood that was the same as "way back then." Everywhere else under the hood technology has moved on without me.

While I've got your attention, do you happen to know the preload torque spec for the bearing adjustment? I checked online and there seems to be as many opinions on bearing adjustment as there are posters. Back in the day we'd rotate the hub while torquing to 10 or 20 ft. lbs. then back off the castle nut until the cotter pin holes lined up. Now I see some recommending using a dial indicator to check the adjustment.
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-01-2012, 08:47 PM
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I usually just tighten it around 30psi, rotate the hub a few turns to seat the bearings, then retighten the nut until it give it a very slight amount of resistance against the hub spinning (5 psi maybe)....not professional, but it works.

2001 Ford E350 7.3 Extended Cargo Van

BTS Transmission, PHP Minotaur package, 4" exhaust/downpipe, Honey Badger jr., FRX, HPX, AIH delete, Fuel bowl mod, Hypermax Boost/Pyro gauge, 4.10 rear.

Last edited by Xphobe; 05-01-2012 at 08:51 PM. Reason: more
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-02-2012, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanx, that's about what the chilton manual said too.
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-03-2012, 05:28 AM
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I have pedal pump bad when I brake my '02 E350. I do have brand new spare rotors I am going to install this weekend. What are the chances that the shimmy and heavy vibration from the front that I am feeling as well will go away with proper bearing adjustment? This vibration is felt while cruising between 45 and 55 MPH ( no brakes applied) and gets better above 62 MPH. I can also affect it (momentary minimalised ) by a sweeping turn either left or right. I am hoping I will not need ball joints or tie-rod ends.
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