Dana 60, brake brakent contact issue. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:09 PM
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Dana 60, brake brakent contact issue.

Hey guys, I broke my axle a few weeks ago and went to replace it today, got new ujoints( ALMOST 40$ each!) and everything went together great. to make a long story short, got everything together, all cleaned out and regrease , tightened the wheel bearing inner nut to just enough so it didn't shake and a little more, cranked the locking nut down.

Spun great, so I went to put the caliper on....it wont go, whats going on here? the bracket for the caliper is contacting the rotor, there is a clearence issue, the brake rotor(spindle) is to close to the knuckle, 3 hours previously this wasn't an issue.


I got thinking about it, what would space that out? THE DUST GAURD!!! i took it out because its useless and more of a pain then its worth(rusty)....talked to a friend who said that he took his out no problem, didn't cause a problem(older king pin d60), so i figured the balljoin d60 needed them there, took it all apart, put it back together and the top now isn't contacting, but the bottom is still an issue.

Something changed, something isn't right here. I feel like i shouldn't have to even have that dust gaurd there as a spacer, its rusty and got messed up in the process of taking it apart, so i pounded it flat and did my best to make it useable, still having an issue.

thanks guys, problem is I need the truck this weekend, and at this point I cant even just put it back together....the spindle is to close to the knuckle.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:52 PM
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A picture would really help. The dust guard can be removed without issue, I am running my 95 without. To remove the dust guard you had to pull the spindle. The rotor is attached to the hub and is centered on the spindle. The only way I can think of it hitting the caliper bracket on one side and not the other is if the spindle is warped or not fully seated. Pull everything back off so you can get to the spindle and tripple check that it is seated flush and torqued correctly. If it is then try to see if it's warped.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:04 AM
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Well after sighting everything and compairing one side to the other.

The hub assembly (rotor, hub, wheel bearings..inner and outer+seals are going to far onto the spindle. I see no reason why and i cant figure it out.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:53 AM
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Hub is going onto spindle to far, nothing seems to be out of the ordinary.

Rear and front wheel bearings look good, the tapered seats in the hub look good (I dont think its possible for that seat to slide back because its against a shoulder)

i'm stumped, and ive done a good amount of these.
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:29 PM
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Wow guys, been fighting it all day, disassembled both sides.


Only difference I can find is the bearing seat to the rotor distance is off.

I think it might be a wrong hub, I cant figure out why it would have worked before and not now. this is so frustrating its not even funny. I will get some pictures.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:24 PM
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UPDATE

I think after looking it over for a few hours that its the brake rotor, they are different, and one seems to be about a STRONG 1/8th of an inch wider then the other. Besides this i fail to find anything wrong.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:59 PM
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It's hard to say what the issue is without seeing it. I can't see how it could be a wrong hub if it worked before. The spindle and hub are tapered so the inner and outer bearing will only go on so far. I could see a issue if the race wasn't pressed in all the way but it sounds like you have a issue in the opposite direction. If you still have your old D50 laying around, the hubs are the same. You could try swapping them just to rule it out.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:09 PM
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Well, i fixed the problem and im still completely confused. I spend a few hours measuring from the spindle out on both sides and the only difference I could see was the brake rotor was 3/16th of an inch wider on one side(different, obviously wrong brake rotor). I figured that couldn't be the problem considering it worked for 15,000 miles that i have had the truck.

it was only 40$ for a new rotor at napa, and they said i could bring it back if it didn't work...it worked, that was the issue. I dont understand it, but I have the same clearance as the other side now.


Must have been REALLY close before, maybe even dragging a little? and when i took that dust guard out it made enough of a difference. I DID try it with the dust gaurd though, and it dragged a little, so i can only assume it dragged a little before.

Sorry for the impossible to answer question guys, its just i needed to get the truck out before the shop opened monday. There is no way anyone could have helped without seeing it in person, because it worked before, and then when i took it apart it wouldn't go back together.

Mistery!
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:11 PM
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well the truck is inside my shop now, and the plan tonight is to rip the injectors out and send them to jim tomorrow for stage 2's, along with having my chip retuned. 1500$ o.o everyone says its worth it though, but I think im having last min questions..should i bother? i mean the truck WORKS how it is...


thanks everyone
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