ok no one answered my post but I got it fixed wasn't too bad took me about 2:30 to fix it there are the 4 - 9/16 nuts that hold the brake booster on you can leave the brake master and booster connected together just move the air cleaner out of the way be sure and disconnect the linkage under the dash next is the clutch master there is 2 - 1/2" nuts holding it on under the hood no need to disconnect the hydralic line just pull it out of the way next and also disconnect the linkage here be sure and have a plastic bushing to replace the one you will brake when you pull it apart ford sells them for $20.00 thats alot for that flimsy piece of plastic ok now you have 2 - nuts on the top of the bracket you will have to lay down on the floor bord to see them as thay are way up there you will need a 10mm socket for them next you will need to pull the fuel pedal out of the way there are 3 - 1/2 nuts holding it on next take a 1/2 socket and take the splice loose at the nuckle for the drive line be sure and mark it so it goes back together correct after you take this bolt loose just slide the sterring shaft down into the engine compartment after you do all this you are ready to pull the clutch/brake bracket out of the truck be carefull of all your wires don't want to pinch them or pull them apart as that would create more work it will take some patients but it will come out you just have to take your time after you get it out installation is in the reverse order when you get ready to connect the clutch linkage put everything together with out tightening up the nut on the new bracket as this will set the linkage be sure your clutch pedal is pulled all the way out before you tighten this nut as I said when you tighten this nut it is set and will take some work to seperate
NOTE: one thing I did to my new one was the bracket where the clutch linkage goes I drilled a small hole there to put a hair pin to prevent them from becoming accendently becoming disconnected in case the plastic retainer broke
