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Old 03-04-2014, 05:48 PM
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IDM Question

I have an '01 F250 that I bought not running. 160,000 miles on the truck. Got it running but it was VERY hard starting and ran very rough. Buzz test at that point revealed 3 injectors that sounded solid and deep tone, 5 that sounded like baby crickets. Removed oil pressure regulator from back of hpop and cleaned it (it was very dirty). Wouldn't start after that. Buzz test after that showed no injectors really trying to do anything. Made mechanical gauge and plumbed it to high pressure rail. Makes too much pressure when cranking (over 2,500 psi). This truck was subjected to LOTS of low voltage cranking before and after I bought it. Unplugging the ICP sensor did not reduce the oil pressure.

My question is: if I finished off the IDM with all of the low voltage cranking, would that essentially be making the hpop deadhead since it isn't firing the injectors and cause the high pressure? I am tempted to buy an IDM and see if that makes it run, but wanted a sanity check before I spent the money. I have very little invested at this point and could easily sell it as is and get my money back. I had essentially given up and was about to sell it but the whole "deadheading the hpop because the IDM is toast" theory popped into my head.

I had done lots of searching to try to see if I was barking up the right tree, but couldn't find any specific info on the subject. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:03 AM
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I'm not sure, but I don't think so. I also don't understand what "low voltage cranking" IS?

First thing to check on these engines is the connectors that go through the Valve Cover Gasket (called UVCH) for poor, pitted, or unplugged (very common).

If you mean cranking over as the batteries die (low voltage) STOP doing that! It's a waste of time as the PCM will not trigger the IDM to fire the injectors once the voltage drops below a certain threshold (varies with yr - but between 8.5-10v).

A good scanner would help you here (Unfortunately, it takes a professional scanner to retrieve them and the Generic OBD-II scanners like the Auto Parts stores have don't do us much good...)

Did it sound like this when it did start?

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Old 03-05-2014, 11:47 AM
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By low voltage cranking I mean trying to start it excessively with low batteries - assisting with jumper cables or chargers as well. I didn't realize what a no-no that was until I had done a fair amount of it.

I checked the UVCH on the driver's side. It was connected and the terminals looked normal when I unplugged it. I forgot that I had recorded the buzz test, so I went back and watched it again. I gave bad information above when I said 3 injectors sounded good - it was only 2 of them. Number 1 and number 5 sounded normal. The rest sounded like baby crickets. That's part of the reason I decided to remove the drivers side VC and check the harness to see if that's why 2,4,6 and 8 didn't sound right.

No - it didn't sound like the one in the video. It ran much worse. Pretty sure it was just running on 1 and 5 when it did run.

I did put fresh batteries in it before doing the final buzz test, when none of the injectors sounded proper. And it doesn't do anything anymore except crank over. Doesn't try to hit at all.

I had read numerous posts that said excessive cranking with low batteries is a great way to toast the IDM. And I am guilty of that as I suspect the previous owner was before he finally gave up on it, since the batteries were essentially dead when I bought it.

That's what led to my question about a toasted IDM and deadheading the hpop, resulting in the much higher than normal pressures in the high pressure rail.
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