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Old 01-02-2014, 09:23 AM
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2005 6.0 no start

Working on a 05 6.0 for a good friend and this is a first for me on this model. After reading many posts I'm at a dead end. The truck started having hard starting issues when weather started to get into the mid 30's. We had a check eng light this summer was for a glow plug and we just put it off for the time being. The truck only gets driven a couple times a month. We were hunting in November and that's when it really started struggling to start. Lots of smoke ran rough till warm. Thanksgiving it just gave up and wouldn't start. I pulled codes had codes for 1,5,7 glow plugs. I replaced all 8 plugged in the block heater and no start. No smoke either. Here is what I have done so far... 2 new AGM batteries, 8 glow plugs, new fuel filters, voltage test at ipc shows 2.1 volts at 2-3 eng revolutions and drops to about 1.6 volts and holds there. (Should equate to about 1100psi) ficm voltage was 20.3 volts for about 4 sec then jumps to 48 all the way through crank cycle. Resoldered all 16 points anyway. Plugged fuel return line still nothing. Disconnected fuel pump checked for bubbles in upper filter housing. There were none. My scan tool can not read ipr percentage. I hear all injectors clicking like crazy at first key up. Any help would be great.

Last edited by Autosport1; 01-02-2014 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Forgot to include a step.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autosport1 View Post
Working on a 05 6.0 for a good friend and this is a first for me on this model. After reading many posts I'm at a dead end. The truck started having hard starting issues when weather started to get into the mid 30's. We had a check eng light this summer was for a glow plug and we just put it off for the time being. The truck only gets driven a couple times a month. We were hunting in November and that's when it really started struggling to start. Lots of smoke ran rough till warm. Thanksgiving it just gave up and wouldn't start. I pulled codes had codes for 1,5,7 glow plugs. I replaced all 8 plugged in the block heater and no start. No smoke either. Here is what I have done so far... 2 new AGM batteries, 8 glow plugs, new fuel filters, voltage test at ipc shows 2.1 volts at 2-3 eng revolutions and drops to about 1.6 volts and holds there. (Should equate to about 1100psi) ficm voltage was 20.3 volts for about 4 sec then jumps to 48 all the way through crank cycle. Resoldered all 16 points anyway. Plugged fuel return line still nothing. Disconnected fuel pump checked for bubbles in upper filter housing. There were none. My scan tool can not read ipr percentage. I hear all injectors clicking like crazy at first key up. Any help would be great.
FICM is junk with those readings. Send it out for repair.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:00 PM
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Yup, time for a FICM.

You said you aren't getting any bubbles in the fuel filter bowl... but is it filling up with fuel?

It wouldn't be a bad idea to have someone graph the injectors too.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:48 PM
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I wasn't sure about the ficm. Confusing with all the info out there. It seemed as if the voltage went from 20 to 48 instantly after something cycled off. It doesn't slowly creep up it is instant. I had the meter on it when keyed off and it took about 4 minutes to drop to zero volts assuming that is normal operation of the capacitors on the power supply. next question is where should i send it and how much does it normally run? On the fuel question the filter fills immediately when key on.
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:27 PM
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Since you say that you can hear the injector spool valves clicking, and that your FICMM goes to 48, I'm not of the opinion that you need to send FICM out just yet. Since your ICP voltage is well above the 1 volt required to start the engine, and you see nothing from the tailpipe, AND you have fuel in the bowl, I think you have a SYNC issue. Check to see if your scanner has SYNC and FICMSYNC as PIDS. If SYNC is yes, cam and crank signals are present, and in time. FICMSYNC is FICMs acknowledgement of this, and will usually result in injector pulse width. If your scan device had INJPW as a PID, it should also climb as the engine cranks. Additionally, verify that the engine RPM is over 120, as slow cranking RPM will not allow SYNC to occur. Had one that the alternator was tied up on, didn't make a squealing noise, but did make the engine crank just slow enough to be a no start.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:18 PM
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Well I borrowed a good ficm this weekend and still no start. I will try to hunt down a better scan tool this week so I can check the things you mentioned. Thanks a ton.
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