6.0 Cylinder contribution issue!! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-05-2012, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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6.0 Cylinder contribution issue!!

Hello everyone. I am having a real issue and I have done everything researched as much as I could to no avail.
I have a 2006 6.0 122000 miles. Stock except egr delete and sct tuner set on economy.
Starts good no smoke, no hard start. If I drive it after a night in the drive I can drive for about 10 miles before it starts to loose power and struggle to go. If I stop and turn off the engine for a few min I can get about anothe 2-3 miles before it happens again. If I try to continue it will start acting like it is missing and and running ruff.
I changed the oil, filter, and both fuel filters all with motorcraft parts. Did not seam to help.
Tested the FICM, found that: Key turned on(not engine) at 47v, engine turned on 38v. I have a SCT turner but I have it at economy only(not interested in smoking wheels LOL) it said #2 and #7 cyl/cont. I researched and cleared the codes, then had #5 cyl?cont but not the others. Cleared then got #2 and #8. Sent it off got replaced.
Ran good for one day, now it is happening again. Re tested the FICM, 48v at key on, 48v engin on.
Any suggestions that will not cost me an arm and leg. I just paid for a wedding!!!! UGH.
Any light at the end of the tunnel for me?

Last edited by Renegade-250; 11-05-2012 at 05:03 PM.
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-06-2012, 12:29 AM
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Ficm is shot. If your getting cylinder contribution codes and your ficm read low voltage this is why. Charge your batteries and get them load tested individually. If one or both are bad replace them with a matching set (both new batteries are the same as one another) and test ficm voltage again and recheck for codes. Most likely your ficm is shot as well and will need to either be replaced or repaired. If your replacing it I highly recommend BulletProofDiesel's ficm. If your repairing it send it to Ed at ficmrepair.com and have it fixed. Welcome to the org! And get a monitor in that truck ASAP. Let me know if I can help you out with a monitor or anything else you might need.

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post #3 of 5 Old 11-06-2012, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for reply.
I already put 2 matching batteries in last november and a new alternator in july.
This was before the issue came around. I did test the ficm and found low voltage while engine was running so i did send it off for repair. I got it back and like i said it ran good for a day but now acting the same. retested the ficmvoltage and it is correct at 48v with key only on and 48v engine running. So it has to be somewhere else.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-06-2012, 05:25 AM
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Check your wiring harnesses I had some chafed wires on the driver side were the harness had been rubbing on valve cover. Major PITA but finally found it. There was about three to five wires badly chafed.


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post #5 of 5 Old 11-06-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I will look at the wire harness tomorrow.
I also think I will need to rebuild my hpop soon. I ran a log text on my sct tuner and observed the temp about 10 deg different until it started missing and running poor again then it was about 20-23 deg difference from the engine oil temp and the engine coolant temp.
By the way, what is the better reman injector out there? I have heard about how some do not change the two solenoids that are the most problems.
Any thoughts, advice?
Thanks
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