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Old 08-28-2011, 07:52 AM
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03 problems

Hi powerstroke community.
I recently bought a 03 F350 lariat with the 6.0. I purchased it to use as a welding truck in the oilfield and in refineries. The truck has 230 000 kilometeres. I installed a cat back exhaust and AFE cold air intake. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but my dad is a heavy duty mechanic so work on the truck is not a big deal. I figured I would try to solve most problems myself before I see him.
Some problems I am experience are:
1. the truck recently is sluggish at starting even if it is warmed up.
2. the truck has very sluggish accleration at lights and stop signs. It runs likes its cold even though its warmed up. When this happens it also blows smoke out the back like crazy. Its embarrrassing.
3. I noticed there is oil all over the top of the coolant resiv., my cold air intake was yellow(now its brown after like 5 weeks), there is oil covering my intercooler pipes and connections.

Today I was planning on changing my fuel filters and locating the oil leaks. I was also planning on ordering an egr delete kit today as well. What is the best kit to use? There is one on ebay for $150. Is that one any good? we have no emmissions laws in Canada so I was going to straight pipe the exhaust as well.

Thank you for all your help.
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:42 AM
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Before planning on just an egr cooler delete, do this test.
Take the truck out and get it all warmed up.
Park it on a good incline, nose down.
Remove the EGR valve from the intake. Leave the hole open.
Leave the truck like this for several hours.
Go back and check the hole in the intake. Do you see moisture in the bottom of the hole?
If you do, you have some work cut out for you. What that would tell you is that your EGR cooler has failed because your oil cooler is plugged up on the coolant side of it (liquid/liquid cooler). The coolant coming out of the oil cooler is fed directly to the egr cooler. Take a second and think just how hot your EGR cooler can get, considering that exhaust gases can reach 1000F. Now think about what will happen when the coolant flow to the EGR cooler is slowed down due to the pulugged up oil cooler. The available coolant can flash boil. The overheating and cooling cycles of the egr cooler stress the metal and it fails internally. This allows coolant to flow into your intake when the egr valve opens, and flow through your turbo when the egr valve is closed. Soot and coolant and high heat are not a good combination for the health of your turbo. This will cause "underboost" and "overboost" conditions. Couple an "ovberboost" with coolant entering your combustion chambers and you will be replacing head gaskets.

If you find the moisture in the hole of the intake, and bought this truck at a dealership, lets hope it wasn't purchased "as is." If this issue is present, and has been ignored, it could easily go from a $1200 oil cooler/egr cooler replacement job to a $6000 head gasket/egr cooler/oil cooler replacement job.

Are you sure there is no oil INSIDE the degas bottle?
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:02 AM
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I think that you should take a little time and read the "basic info" link in my signature line. It tells you many things you need to know about this engine.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:49 PM
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yeah there is oil in the degas bottle. I guess a guy starts with the oil cooler, egr cooler and egr delete then? or pull the motor and so the whole works.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:09 PM
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I pulled my egr valve out and it was very dirty. It appears it needs new O-rings as well. Could these bad O rings be contributing to the oil in the degas bottle.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerstroke welding rig View Post
yeah there is oil in the degas bottle. I guess a guy starts with the oil cooler, egr cooler and egr delete then? or pull the motor and so the whole works.
The oil in your degas bottle means that your oil cooler has failed internally. The dampness in the EGR valve hole means your egr cooler has failed. Both are serious issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by powerstroke welding rig View Post
I pulled my egr valve out and it was very dirty. It appears it needs new O-rings as well. Could these bad O rings be contributing to the oil in the degas bottle.
The EGR valve will not contribute to oil in the degas bottle. The oil you see means only one thing, your oil cooler has failed and it is leaking.

What the oil cooler failure means is that at an absolute minimum, you must replace the oil cooler, egr cooler, and every rubber component in your cooling system. The rubber absorbs the oil and will continue to leach it out as time goes on (oil will also weaken the rubber hoses, eventually causing them to fail). This would result in always having oil contamination in your cooling system.
You mention that you just bought this truck. If possible, return it or get them to fix everything (hopefully you have some type of warranty?).
You may also be looking at head gasket replacement. This along with all the other work can cost you in excess of $7,000.

Once the heads come off for head gasket replacement, the heads must be taken to a qualified machine shop. They must check for straight/flatness. They can not mill more than 0.008 or the head will have to be replaced. When the head get reinstalled, use ONLY the Ford head gaskets and install ARP head studs.
A Ford dealership will not send the heads out and will not properly check the heads. Skipping that all-important step will result in a repeat of the head gasket failure.
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:46 PM
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I bought the truck at an auction. When I bought it I said well if the motor blows up on the way I home I would still make money off of it if I sold it after. I guess I will start with the EGR cooler and the oil cooler and replace my rubber components. If I still have problems after that I'll pull the cab or the motor and do the head gasket and the studs. I may as well do the easier part first and see how it goes. What kind of Egr cooler and oil cooler do most people go with? I am not intending to use the truck to tow anything major. It just hauls a welding machine around. I just want something that is reliable and dependable.
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:02 PM
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What may really suck is that you have to flush the cooling system after the repair of the oil cooler. What may happen is that by flushing it, you dislodge the gunk and some of it deposits itself right into your new oil cooler, clogging it up in a much shorter time than you would expect. You may have to dig in and change it again (or stay on top of a continual reverse flushing regiment).
Depending on where you live and your state laws concerning emissions testing (now and in the future) would dictate whether or not you can get away with deleting the EGR cooler. You can find a cheap EGR delete kit on e-bay. The sellers name is Dicad solutions. It will run about 160 bucks or so. That is the kit I used with no issues.
If you must (or choose to) retain the egr cooler, the stock one from Ford for your year truck is not a bad piece.
Check the link in my signature line for a step-by-step on how to replace the egr cooler (or delete it) and oil cooler replacement. It has all the info you need (other than flushing oil out of the cooling system).
It has part numbers and a few parts to consider upgrading while you have it all apart. All the upgrades will run under 400 and will add longevity.

If you never want to worry about an oil cooler failure ever again, and can swing 2500, then I would absolutely recommend the bulletproof diesel oil cooling system. The system removes the liquid/liquid style cooler from the cavity in the engine and places an air/liquid cooler out front of the truck. Awesome system (I have this).
LINK to the system for an 03.
Should you live in a climate that never sees snow, there is a cheaper oil cooling system that they sell. This runs $1895.LINK
Other than this system, you have but one viable option. The stock unit replacement. Here is a link to one. LINK to stock piece, $213.84
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:19 PM
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I work with a guy who just rebuilt his top end with the MKM customs Master kit. He says it was a great kit to use. I was looking at their products possibly. Has there stuff been used with good success or not? One question I think I know the answer too. Is there anyway to rebuild the top end without pulling the cab or motor? Also I noticed that MKM has a whole new motor for 10k. Has anyone had good success with this motor?
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:48 PM
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can a 6.0 be truely dependable ?? I have a 95 7.3 power storke --- I would like to update the truck to a 04 or 05 ( the newer body style ) --- but every story I hear is a night mare -- and every thing costs out the *** -- my 7.3, I have beet the snot out of it every day and have never had a single problem-- so I am leary about updating
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