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Old 07-19-2011, 06:50 PM
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Help with 06 SD 6.0

06 SD 87000+- this is my father in laws truck and it is his cash cow you could say so we really need as much help as possible. He has 2 issues first and most important is the degas tank keeps purging air roughly every 8-10 seconds. I took the cap off the degas tank and it has fumes coming out of it. I feel that it is the head gasket. there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. The engine does not smoke at anytime loaded or not WOT or not. What should I look for on this. Any and all help will be welcomed.

The second issue is the rear feels like it is slipping when turning. What can cause this?
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:57 AM
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The oil cooler is plugged on the coolant side of it. This has slowed down the coolant flow to the egr cooler. His EGR cooler has failed because it is overheating due to the slower coolant flow.
Tell him to stop driving the truck. He can cause SERIOUS engine damage by ignoring this problem. It is serious.
Both the EGR cooler and the oil cooler need to be replaced. I STRONGLY suggest that you read the link in my signature line about performing a comprehensive cooling system flush. Do this previous to the repair.
Then he should read the "basic info" link and add the necessary gauge to his truck.
Before I type for 20 minutes, are you contemplating doing this repair or is he going to take it to a shop?
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:15 AM
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I plan on doing this repair for him I have been pricing parts and trying to gather everything I need. A list of parts would be nice if anyone has this. I have read about using Fleetguard restore. If my memory is right. To do a chemical flush would that help or do should I just replace eberything? Should I replace the EGR or just delete it? While I have it apart should I go ahead and change the water pump aswell? Or should he go trade it in on a new truck?
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:21 AM
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Read the link in my signature line about "step by step egr and oil cooler replacement."
It has part numbers you will need, and a few parts to consider updating as well.

To copy/paste a post I wrote yesterday to someone in a similar situation (and to save some typing time):
Quote:
If you have the tools and the mechanical ability, you can do this repair yourself. In my signature line "step by step..." That link has pdf files posted that will give you the step by step directions, torque values and also some tips and suggested other parts to replace at the same time. I wrote it late one night and didn't put all the information in chronological order, but the info is all there. That includes a pdf file for cleaning the turbo. It isn't all that hard as long as you follow the directions provided. With the proper tools and ability you can do this in about 8 hours your first time in.

As far as flushing out your cooling system, I absolutely recommend it previous to the repair, and to answer you question, the chemical flushes will not hurt the turbo during the flushing activities.
Words of warning are that once you start your flush, continue until finished. Reason is that leaving even the distilled water in the system long term (just hours) can create more rust scale that you would have to flush out.

Next is a warning about the leaking/failed EGR cooler. That component failure is responsible for many head gasket failures. The coolant leaking out of the EGR cooler leaves the engine two ways.
One way is down into the exhaust. When the truck is running the coolant flows out of the egr cooler and into the exhaust, follows the exhaust into the turbo. Just imagine what soot and coolant mix would look like and that is why your turbo is acting up. Overboosting is a real possibility.
The second way the coolant goes is into the air intake stream while the engine is running and the PCM commands the egr valve to open. Lets look at what an egr cooler does. It cools exhaust gases before they are re-introduced into the air intake. Exhaust temps can easily reach 1000F. The coolant will flow out of the hole and under high temps can vaporize into steam, or if the exhaust gas is cool enough or the coolant flow is significant enough, coolant may make it all the way to the cylinder where it will turn into steam. Steam creates a much higher cylinder pressure and the result of that is a popped head gasket.
Now lets go back to the exhaust side. When the truck is shut off, the cooling system is still under pressure. The coolant will continue to leak into the exhaust. The coolant will flow down the up-pipe on the passenger side of the truck and collect in the exhaust manifold on that side. If you just so happen to have shut it off where an exhaust valves are open, the coolant will flow into that cylinder. This can and does hydrolock engines. Much more costly repairs would be needed should this occur.
This is why when you first start it, it is running like crap and you will see the white smoke and notice what can look like oil leaking out of the muffler. That stuff is actually coolant that is collecting the soot in the exhaust.

With all that said, here is the problem as it stands now, running the truck as is can cause a head gasket failure. It might have already done so since you have been running it while losing coolant for months. To perform your flushing activities, I would unplug the egr valve to give yourself the best possible chance of performing the flush without further damage. You must unplug the valve when the engine is off and cold (key off). Hopefully your egr valve is good and is in the closed position at that time. DO NOT think for a second that just unplugging the egr valve is a temporary fix and you can drive the truck. Forget it. It won't work. The turbo boost can force the egr valve open, and if it was unplugged there will be alot of coolant waiting behind it. The valve opens and pours all that coolant into the intake and into the cylinders and you just lost the head gaskets.
So, how would unplugging the valve help your flushing since the engine must be at a 'higher than stock idle' rate? Well, you would have to use the "high idle" mod to complete the flush. This modification would raise the idle speed to 1250 rpm and that should be enough to complete the flushing, without having the turbo produce much boost.
Good news is that you have an 06 and the high idle mod is VERY easy to perform on that year truck. Just above your emergency brake pedal there is a little bundle of wires tucked up in there. Look for the purple with a white stripe wire in that bundle. You want to add a switched/fused (5amp) power source to that wire. Congratulations at performing the high idle mod on an 06, your done.
To use the high idle there are a few things that you will need to do. They are: Turn on your switch, the transmission must be in park, you can not touch the brake pedal, you must set the emergency brake. Do all of that and wait about 3 seconds and the truck should automatically kick in to high idle (approx. 1250 rpm).
It may be in your best interest to relieve the pressure on your cooling system now (hopefully there still is some). Like I said before, start the flush and continue non-stop until done. When the flush is complete, do your repairs, then refill your cooling system with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant. You can get the same one that International uses in this engine at the International truck dealership. They use "Fleetrite."
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:45 AM
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Head gaskets are blown. Replace EGR and oil coolers as well. Use ARP studs.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:09 AM
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Where is the best place to get the oil cooler and egr?

Since I have to take parts off should I just go ahead and change out the head gaskets?

Should I get a new EGR cooler or the delete kit? Pros N Cons?

After market oil cooler (if avail.) or stock?

For headgasket install with studs cab off or can it be done with the cab on?

How long would this normally take to do?

Where can I find all the torque specs and valve adjustment specs?
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backroadman81 View Post
Where is the best place to get the oil cooler and egr?

CLICK HERE Call them for all your parts.

Since I have to take parts off should I just go ahead and change out the head gaskets?

I think you should test the truck to see if it is head gaskets first. "Check-verify-repair"
You will have to get a long section of hose and a pressure gauge. Install a "T" fitting in the hose that comes off the intake manifold and returns to the degas bottle. You will need a long hose so that you can route the hose from the "T" out towards the front of the truck, just inside where the headlight is. Then close the hood and route the rubber hose all the way back to the drivers seat area. Start the truck and drive it up a long grade. Roll hard into the throttle. If the pressure climbs quick and falls quick (may reach up to 30psi) that is the egr cooler leak pressurizing the cooling system. If it builds at a slow rate and falls just as slow, that points more towards head gaskets. You can also try doing how FORD does it by googling "Ford TSB for coolant loss."
You could also pay FORD to diagnose this, it might run you a couple hundred bucks.


Should I get a new EGR cooler or the delete kit? Pros N Cons?

That depends an if you have emissions testing in your area now, or in the future. If you do (or will) the truck will fail. If you get caught by some cop with a chip on his shoulder out to save the world, the fine can be up to 10 grand. If you want to leave an EGR cooler installed, look on the bulletproof diesel website and buy one of theirs. Much better design over stock.
Deleting the egr cooler will remove the soot build up in the intake and egr valve. Once you take off the intake for the repair, you will see just how much soot is in there (and you should clean it out).


After market oil cooler (if avail.) or stock?

Stock, unless you have about $2500 for just the parts. Stock cooler is $213.84 in the link above. The bulletproofdiesel oil cooling system will run the 2500, but you will NEVER have an oil cooler related problem again.

For headgasket install with studs cab off or can it be done with the cab on?

If you have somewhere where you can raise the cab with a lift, do it. It will be MUCH easier to do that cab-off.

How long would this normally take to do?

That depends on too many different factors. One is the tools you have, another is your mechanical ability.
Also, keep in mind that once the heads have been removed, they must go to a QUALIFIED machine shop and be checked for straight/level and magnafluxed for cracking. The most that they can mill off the surface to correct the flat/straight is 0.07" any more than that and you will have to buy new heads.
When thinking about replacement gaskets, go with the FORD gaskets. Don't buy into the "black onyx" hype. They are not proving to be reliable.


Where can I find all the torque specs and valve adjustment specs?

eautorepair.net is what I use. Very inexpensive online manual that will have everything you need and more.
If he needs head gaskets replaced, get ARP head studs to replace the stock TTY head bolts. Here is a good link for those. <CLICK>
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:30 AM
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Here is an entertaining thread that may interest you. Cab on head gasket replacement.
<CLICK>
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