07-20-2011, 07:21 AM
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Read the link in my signature line about "step by step egr and oil cooler replacement."
It has part numbers you will need, and a few parts to consider updating as well.
To copy/paste a post I wrote yesterday to someone in a similar situation (and to save some typing time):
If you have the tools and the mechanical ability, you can do this repair yourself. In my signature line "step by step..." That link has pdf files posted that will give you the step by step directions, torque values and also some tips and suggested other parts to replace at the same time. I wrote it late one night and didn't put all the information in chronological order, but the info is all there. That includes a pdf file for cleaning the turbo. It isn't all that hard as long as you follow the directions provided. With the proper tools and ability you can do this in about 8 hours your first time in.
As far as flushing out your cooling system, I absolutely recommend it previous to the repair, and to answer you question, the chemical flushes will not hurt the turbo during the flushing activities.
Words of warning are that once you start your flush, continue until finished. Reason is that leaving even the distilled water in the system long term (just hours) can create more rust scale that you would have to flush out.
Next is a warning about the leaking/failed EGR cooler. That component failure is responsible for many head gasket failures. The coolant leaking out of the EGR cooler leaves the engine two ways.
One way is down into the exhaust. When the truck is running the coolant flows out of the egr cooler and into the exhaust, follows the exhaust into the turbo. Just imagine what soot and coolant mix would look like and that is why your turbo is acting up. Overboosting is a real possibility.
The second way the coolant goes is into the air intake stream while the engine is running and the PCM commands the egr valve to open. Lets look at what an egr cooler does. It cools exhaust gases before they are re-introduced into the air intake. Exhaust temps can easily reach 1000°F. The coolant will flow out of the hole and under high temps can vaporize into steam, or if the exhaust gas is cool enough or the coolant flow is significant enough, coolant may make it all the way to the cylinder where it will turn into steam. Steam creates a much higher cylinder pressure and the result of that is a popped head gasket.
Now lets go back to the exhaust side. When the truck is shut off, the cooling system is still under pressure. The coolant will continue to leak into the exhaust. The coolant will flow down the up-pipe on the passenger side of the truck and collect in the exhaust manifold on that side. If you just so happen to have shut it off where an exhaust valves are open, the coolant will flow into that cylinder. This can and does hydrolock engines. Much more costly repairs would be needed should this occur.
This is why when you first start it, it is running like crap and you will see the white smoke and notice what can look like oil leaking out of the muffler. That stuff is actually coolant that is collecting the soot in the exhaust.
With all that said, here is the problem as it stands now, running the truck as is can cause a head gasket failure. It might have already done so since you have been running it while losing coolant for months. To perform your flushing activities, I would unplug the egr valve to give yourself the best possible chance of performing the flush without further damage. You must unplug the valve when the engine is off and cold (key off). Hopefully your egr valve is good and is in the closed position at that time. DO NOT think for a second that just unplugging the egr valve is a temporary fix and you can drive the truck. Forget it. It won't work. The turbo boost can force the egr valve open, and if it was unplugged there will be alot of coolant waiting behind it. The valve opens and pours all that coolant into the intake and into the cylinders and you just lost the head gaskets.
So, how would unplugging the valve help your flushing since the engine must be at a 'higher than stock idle' rate? Well, you would have to use the "high idle" mod to complete the flush. This modification would raise the idle speed to 1250 rpm and that should be enough to complete the flushing, without having the turbo produce much boost.
Good news is that you have an 06 and the high idle mod is VERY easy to perform on that year truck. Just above your emergency brake pedal there is a little bundle of wires tucked up in there. Look for the purple with a white stripe wire in that bundle. You want to add a switched/fused (5amp) power source to that wire. Congratulations at performing the high idle mod on an 06, your done.
To use the high idle there are a few things that you will need to do. They are: Turn on your switch, the transmission must be in park, you can not touch the brake pedal, you must set the emergency brake. Do all of that and wait about 3 seconds and the truck should automatically kick in to high idle (approx. 1250 rpm).
It may be in your best interest to relieve the pressure on your cooling system now (hopefully there still is some). Like I said before, start the flush and continue non-stop until done. When the flush is complete, do your repairs, then refill your cooling system with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant. You can get the same one that International uses in this engine at the International truck dealership. They use "Fleetrite."