GTP-38 rounded bolt removal :( - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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GTP-38 rounded bolt removal :(

Posted this in the main tech section - so appologies for the dbl-post.

So, I picked up a turbo off 'the-bay'...
I wanted a cheap core to get familiar with it and rebuild it. Well, found out why it was so cheap.
It definitely needed a rebuild, and appears the previous owner knew this - because it looks like he may have attempted to pull it apart - and jacked it up.
The lower 5/16's bolts that hold the turbine housing were slightly rounded.
Other than trying to drill out and f'up the threads, any other ideas on getting these out?
I'm tempted to just get 2 inexpensive 5/16's sockets and use a little JB-Weld to stick them on to the bolts since there's enough teeth left to bond to.
Then just replace the bolts to the housing with new ones from a rebuild kit.

Any other ideas?


2003 EX, 7.3L 4inch Lift, Nitto Trail Grappler's, KMC XD Spy's
220k Miles, Currently 605tq, 312hp
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 08:36 AM
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I'd probably go with your first idea. Cut or drill the head off then lift the assembly over the remaining stud that was left.


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post #3 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 09:15 AM
spool up that turbo!!


 
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Weld a small 6pt nut to the head?


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post #4 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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I'd rather drill the head off first, rather than try to weld in that tiny area.
Not that I don't think it wouldn't work, I just don't know how much it would hold with just the small weld on the one side, or from the top.


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post #5 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 02:28 PM
spool up that turbo!!


 
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Get a nut with the same id as the od of the head of the bolt and tack the inside of the nut slowly the heat will help get the bolt out as well


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01 f250 4dr LB 6spd
s&b, cfm+
4in straight pipe
DP tuner
boost pyro and engine oil temp
AIH delete, hpx, frx
05 harleys 8000k's
billet grille and painted shell
17"welds and 35-12.5's toyo mt's
cab lights
southbend con ofe waiting to go in
fresh 7.3 from reviva


SOLD
1995 f150 302 5spd 35's sad sad day

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post #6 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 05:05 PM
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use an angle grinder and grind the bolt head down to a smaller size then use the appropiate socket.

bailey

cut me some slack, its a work truck.
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 05:46 PM
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Those are all some good ideas.

Patrick... if you are concerned about tack welds holding, how well do you think the JB weld would hold? I would trust actual welds more, but that's just me.


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I'm guessing that you didn't lose nearly as much as it appeared. Spills are like that. The last beer that I spilled was like a million ounces.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 07:16 PM
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Those bolts should actually be 8mm 12-point. Try that instead of the 5/16. Second, try getting a "cheap" 7.5mm socket, and drive it onto the bolt head with a hammer.

Good luck.

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post #9 of 17 Old 05-15-2012, 07:26 PM
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And there ya have it Patrick. I would definitely trust any advice Gene would give.


2004 F250 CC Lariat 4x4

BPD FICM, BPD billet water pump, BPD VK688 oil cooler kit, S&B CAI, MTW stage 2, TSD tunes, Auto Meter gauges, Edge CTS, Sinister coolant filter, Blue spring, 6.4 banjo bolts, Straight piped w/ 6" single mitre stack, Pro Comp leveling kit, 05-07 HD headlights, Fumoto block drain valves, ELC, High idle mod

Quote:
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I'm guessing that you didn't lose nearly as much as it appeared. Spills are like that. The last beer that I spilled was like a million ounces.
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-16-2012, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gene, Will definintely try that.
Only reason I was using the 5/16's was - that was on one of the "How-To's" from Guzzle's (Diesel O-Rings) site here. Welcome to BDrummonds Van Turbo Rebuild Web Page

Being that the first 12 or so bolts came off fine with the 5/16's - didn't occur to me to try to use an 8mm...


2003 EX, 7.3L 4inch Lift, Nitto Trail Grappler's, KMC XD Spy's
220k Miles, Currently 605tq, 312hp

Last edited by AzPatMan; 05-16-2012 at 09:35 AM.
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