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post #1 of 11 Old 06-14-2013, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Battery Question

I have a question about the battery on my camper. I usually take the battery out when we get back from camping but it's a pain if we need to go in the and need the slide out and without disconnecting the battery it is constantly drained down. My niece has a camper that came with a disconnect switch close to the battery and mine didn't. Have you guys installed a disconnect switch on the negative side?

Also my camper has a 50amp service and it's a real pita when I want to fire up the fridge before we go camping. The cord for the electrical hook is enormous and probably weights 40lbs and a pain to roll up. So my next question: Does anyone know if a company makes an adaptor with a 50amp female and a 110v male? This way I can put the adaptor on the camper and run my heavy drop cord without getting out the very large power cord. I have looked at campingworld.com and walley world but seems no one make this.

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post #2 of 11 Old 06-14-2013, 05:37 AM
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For the battery I ran a FLAMING RIVER battery cut of switch. Heavy duty but still a kid can throw the switch. Also look into a solar panel set up for the batt. Mine ran for around $60 and the batt is always 100%. I to know the pain of "hey Dad the camper aint got no power..."

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post #3 of 11 Old 06-14-2013, 05:45 AM
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They make a quick disconnect post for either the positive or negative post. They make it with a spin off nut or bar that lifts up. Or you can get a push/pull style cuz they're usually rated for higher amperage than a toggle.

Something like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/battery...tch-97853.html

Or this

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...tch-66789.html

You could always get a small solar panel to keep it charged. I have a 60 watt panel on mine and it will pretty much run everything all day long without the battery even showing a drain. You probably have a current draw somewhere if your battery is dying. Turn off the CO detectors when just sitting and not occupied and that will a good amount. Look for anything else that isn't necessary and turn those off too.

As for the power cord, head to home depot/rv store and get the the correct female 50 amp adapter to plug into the camper as well as a male 15/20 amp plug. Then get a foot or so section of 3 conductor wire to connect the two plugs. 12 gauge would more then enough, 14 would be fine. You could use an extension cord and cut that up if you wanted.

Or just buy this... Kinda pricey though

http://www.rvpartscenter.com/Product...DID=65&CID=222[/URL]

Hope that helps

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post #4 of 11 Old 06-14-2013, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Tks guys for the help. I know the co2/smoke detector, microwave and radio are the culprits pulling my battery down. I back my camper up to my building so I was going to run a trickle charger to the batter after I put on the disconnect.

That is the very first plug I have seen going from 50a to 110v and your are right pretty pricey. Let me ask this: when I get all needed to make up my own connector how will I connect them together? Green to ground - White to ? - Blk or red to ? I bet the 50a female will be expensive also. Actually got to run to lowes now for work so I will check.

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post #5 of 11 Old 06-18-2013, 03:57 PM
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The microwave is 120V only, so it's not pulling your batt down.

The issue with dropping from 50A to anything is that you have two how legs on your 50A and only one hot leg on your 30A, 20A, and 10A. So you'd have to make sure that, if it only powers one leg, that it's the leg for the converter or refr. Hopefully the manuf. thought of that and just split one leg into two.

Also, what 50A connection do you have? Twist lock or is the cord permanently connected?



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post #6 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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I used the microwave as an example cause the clock stays on when the battery is hooked up.

I have the twist lock cord and man that thing is heavy. Also try rolling it up when it cold, not fun at all. I am thinking seriously about the $75 adaptor and be done with it.

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post #7 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCDeerHunter View Post
I used the microwave as an example cause the clock stays on when the battery is hooked up.
That shouldn't be 12V at all.

But I know what you mean about cold cords. They suck.



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post #8 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 01:37 PM
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There is a good chance that you have a inverter if the microwave is on. Personally I would install a solar panel to keep the battery topped off. There are adapters for the 50a service, both hot legs can be combined together if you don't have a native 240v load, here's the first cheep adapter I found. Alternatively, there is usually a service panel on the outside right behind the refrigerator, you could open that up and should find that it's plugged into a normal socket. You could unplug it from the socket and use a extension cord.

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post #9 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Man, thanks for the info and link I will order an adapter tomorrow.

Thats really cool about the refer plug in, I will for sure do that also if needed. Right now being hot here I like to run the AC when packing and unpacking/cleaning the camper. Thanks for the good info.

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post #10 of 11 Old 06-20-2013, 06:40 AM
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I use a cut off like the green spin wheel one from HF on my negative on my deep cycle. I turn it on before I leave each trip, and off when I get back. I want a solar option for next season but just didn't get time yet this year. They are good options for sure.

My microwave doesn't keep the clock on when only running on battery, not sure why, but it doesn't. And I do have an invertor, but either way, the only draws I have are the smoke, LP, and CO2 detectors.

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