RV roof leak repair

[mechanix]

I seem to have a leak in the rood where the front shell of the camper meets the rubber roof area. I need to seal this but with sooo many products on the market it is hard to find one that is the real deal and that works well. I don't want to continue to have to reseal this area over and over. So I am looking for opinions as to what others have used that actually worked. The RV place wants over a grand to repair, but I think I can do it a tad cheaper.

Thanks

[HOUTX01X]

On my old trailer I used the sealant tape and the rubberized roof sealant. It never leaked again. I use PPL motor homes a lot they seem to know their stuff.
RV Rubber/Metal Roofs, Coatings, Sealants - PPL Motor Homes

[supreme oppressor]

Never tried it but all the people on a RV forum i belong to swear by Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond®

[MikeThompson]

if the leak is where the cap meets the rubber roof, this is the best stuf to use. It's a self leveling sealant that will fill in any leaks in a seam. I've used it quite a bit and never had a problem with it.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant - Product - Camping World

[mudfuel06]

Originally Posted by MikeThompson

if the leak is where the cap meets the rubber roof, this is the best stuf to use. It's a self leveling sealant that will fill in any leaks in a seam. I've used it quite a bit and never had a problem with it.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant - Product - Camping World

What he said. It can get expensive, but it will seal the heck out of anything and also can be removed in the future without making a mess.

[jesilvas]

Dicor is what you need to use.
A grand to repair sounds steep to me.
At most, you're looking at 3 hrs or so to remove the front seam, clean the trim and roof/front cap off, reputty under the trim, screw the trim back down and add screws where there should've been some, and then put a new batch of dicor on the trim.
If you are just sealing, clean everything off really good with windex and a towel. Make sure it's as clean as you can get it, because Dicor needs a good surface. And NO NO NO NO water. It's amazing how water repels Dicor and vice versa. If there's water, don't even try to apply it. Get it all dry. Then seal fairly liberally anywhere you think it needs it. Do not tool it out, just let it sink down by itself. If it's on the edges of the trailer, you can do it there too, just be easy with the amount you use because it will follow gravity down. If you make a mess, something wet will help clean it up quickly. If you have a blob, get your finger wet, and move it around a little.

And as an end note, wash/treat your roof once a year, and reseal as necessary.

[fishman]

I developed a leak where the rubber membrane and the aluminum siding meet on the top front because the screws that held the trim strip down rusted out. As a temp fix, I used the eternabond tape. No doubt, that stuff is super easy and definitely works. Recommend everyone keep a roll around for emergencies.
Later, I paid an RV guy to do a more permanent fix because there was some underlying structural elements that had wood rot. He was able to peel the rubber back several feet, replace the wood, then reuse the rubber and glue/tape/seal everything back together.
Could you do this yourself? Definitely, if you have the time and a safe covered area to do the work. I had neither so I bit the bullet but it only cost about $350, mainly because the membrane was still intact.

[jesilvas]

It gets interesting to try to just do a little patch job like that, but can be done.

[mechanix]

I think there might be small holes in the rubber membrane. Will the Dicor seal those up?

[jesilvas]

Yes, Dicor will seal holes.
If a lot of the holes are near each other, you can cut a piece of seam tape to cover them all, clean the roof VERY well, and lay the tape down with no air and pushing it down good to make it stick well, and dicor a thin bead around the edges of it.

FYI, I use Dicor as a verb.