Water heater fix and more on Phoenix Cruisers
Very recently our the relief valve on our six gallon water heater was popping very often. What I discovered was that some 'stuff' had built up under the surface mounted switches and this prevented good contact with the shell of the tank. I cleaned the area under the switches, used a bit of heat transfer paste and all is well once again. As an afterthought I did remove the t/p valve and ended up replacing it when I saw alot of crud on and in the assembly, the idiot who installed the valve overtightened to such an extent that there were only three threads which were intact, the rest were collasped. Fortunately for me the damaged threads clean up nicely with a tap.
Now with regard to the Company that this bad salesperson works for; I have studied the pictures on that web site and what I saw was beyond incredible and the claim that this Company ignores good practice seems to be established beyond any doubt.
The most obvious examples is the electrical work and I am hoping that someone here is knowlegeable about motorhome wiring. It would seem that that the code for rv wiring would be close to that of home wiring; does the rv code allow for a maker of motorhomes to just use twist on nuts for permanently concealed hot wires as the termination? I would think that code, certainly good practice, would require that the wires be capped off in a junction box mounted is a accessable location..
The pictures of the batteries is another issue, it would seem that makers would be required to use a stud size closer to the lug ring AND that of course that batteries would be installed in a manner that keeps road crud off them.
If you have been really screwed before when you bought a big ticket item you should check out what happened to these people I guarantee it will make you mad as heck.
He claims to have the best diesel engine in the world, an '07 6.0-installed in the worst motorhome ever built-I agree on both accounts.