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Old 07-21-2008, 03:03 PM
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low cost wvo system?

From what I read vegistroke seems to be the best if you have the money. And if I had the money I would just order one.
What about all of us who cant afford 3k?
I converted my duel tank 93 ford for about 200.00 and some hours spent in the shop. Front tank veg and the rear tank bio, 1/2 fuel line some heater hose, bubble wrap and it's been working for 4 years and 25k so far. It's not pretty under the hood but it works.
Note: My veg is clean before it ever goes in the tank.

Some one out their must have done the learning curve on the 99 and newer powerstrokes and be willing to share the info on a lost cost do it yourself method.

This is what I have so far on my 99 so far.

I have my 119 gallon steel tank built 4 ft x 8 ft x 6" high. Lays in the bed so I can still haul plywood. I used 12 gauge steel sheet and have baffles every 2foot. I welded in 1/2 pipe where the bed bolt down holes are and bolted thru the stock bed mount holes. I also had a muffler shop bend a 10 ft length of 2" tubing into a 180 bend and welded this in so I could connect my engine coolant to it to heat the tank.

1/2 copper line in 3/4 heater hose. You can use tee plumbing fittings to exit the fuel line and coolant on both ends.


What I haven't done so far is figure out the powerstroke fuel system that runs thru the cylinder heads.

Terry

Last edited by thegel; 07-22-2008 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:42 PM
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I used to have a GreaseCar conversion kit, which I bought for 2400 bucks. It took me the weekend to install, and it worked just the way it was designed too...I have since made my own system, which is basically just a 50/50 mix of veggie oil and diesel, and I tapped into the hot engine coolant to heat the fuel lines and heat the fuel filter. It sounds like your set up will work. PM me if you want to discuss you fuel system, or either of our setups any further. Also, if I understand you coorectly, your fuel line is running through your coolant line, if this is the case, PEX tubing may work better than copper line.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blizzardwarrior7 View Post
I used to have a GreaseCar conversion kit, which I bought for 2400 bucks. It took me the weekend to install, and it worked just the way it was designed too...I have since made my own system, which is basically just a 50/50 mix of veggie oil and diesel, and I tapped into the hot engine coolant to heat the fuel lines and heat the fuel filter. It sounds like your set up will work. PM me if you want to discuss you fuel system, or either of our setups any further. Also, if I understand you coorectly, your fuel line is running through your coolant line, if this is the case, PEX tubing may work better than copper line.
I have had good luck with 3/8 aluminum fuel line. Same outside dimension as 1/4 pex and flows way better because of larger I.D.
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:14 AM
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What I would like to figure out is how and where to connect the heated veg to the engine.
How does the grease car unit hook up?
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:42 AM
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you have to install check valves on the diesel feed lines, and hook the veggie lines to the port on the opposite ends of the fuel rails. Install a check in the veg oil line before it T's to the two heads, and a purge solenoid just after it.

As far as aluminum line, I would be worried about stress fractures from vibration and heat. Brass is much safer in my opinion.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:29 PM
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Do you happen to have the check valve and purge solinoid part #"s handy?
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:49 PM
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After doing the research this is what I have come up with.

A local wrecking yard will sell me a complete stock fuel system from the tank to the the connections at the head for 250.00
I should be able to connect the second system to the opposite ends of the heads and use a rocker switch to turn on the correct fuel pump.

Does anyone seem a problem with this?
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:24 AM
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You have to be able to purge the veggie lines with diesel fuel also.
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:04 AM
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I'm researching this option also. I understand that for a fuel cell, you want to go SS or Aluminum.
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:21 AM
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i just designed my own system kinda like yall are describing, i didnt know thats how greasecar does it, it just seemed like the best way to route it because of where the return line is in relation to the heads. i went out and bought all the brass fittings, but if i had to do it again, i would order the regulated return line kit, not the $500 kit, the cheap $150 one w/o a regulator. i Teed the line where it comes from the old plugs in the head. the tee has a check valve i got from a industrial shop here local, $25. i bought a pump on ebay that was noty the style of the stock pump, im not sure what you call that one, but the fuel travels through the windings ang bearings of the pump, kinda like eating big macs your whole life. i used to have a set up similar to greasel, or whatever their calling it not, but i went through a few fuel pumps, so i redid it myself. i cut the return line and put in a 3 way selector valve. i also teed into the diesel main line and ran it to my veggie pump, so i could completely fush the lines every shut down. i put in a 3way selector valve before the veggie pump. the heating system on mine is different tat most. i dont have a heater core inside my tank. i thought coolant and fuel mix wasnt a good idea, and ive seen lots of soggy floor boards from leaking heater cores. the way the stick fuel system is designed, the fuel dead ends in the heads, the return line is only a few inches away from the main line, so in order to purge the system from veg/diesel every time, you have to burn whatever is in the heads and fuel bowl. im not sure how much they hold, but if it holds a gallon, thats a gallon of diesel your wasting. a gallon a day= $150 a month. too high for doing veggie oil!! so i tapped into the lines the farthest away from the return line, allowing the vegie oil to push all the diesel out of the heads instead of just burning it. when i switch fuels i wait a minute or so before i switch the return line so i can recover the diesel from the heads, i dont know how long it takes to totally flush the system, im gonna pull the return line and switch the fuels and see how long at idle it takes before diesel starts coming out, alright, thats long enough for now, any questions, just ask
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