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Old 07-06-2008, 05:58 AM
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Hot Pan Test Failure

My HPT did not pass. Here is what I did...heated oil up to 150*, turned off HWH within 15-20 minutes of when it reached 150*. I then let it cool down for 4 days. I opened the bottom valve and ran oil into a clear quart jug I could see water droplets the size of dimes and nickles in the bottom but no defined layer. I drew another quart and the same thing dime and nickle size droplets of water. I did this a third time and the droplets are now smaller...the size of a pencil. This seems like a waste of alot of good oil. I did it a 4th time could not see the droplets of water. I then pulled a cup of oil off the bottom for the HPT and it crackled poped like crazy. What did I do wrong?
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:47 AM
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First off, why did you turn it off right when it reached 150*? Mines takes a couple hours just to get to that heat and then I let it cook for the better part of the day. Better for seperation. 2nd, you may need a new oil source, I've never seen water droplets that size. Restaurants that don't cook a lot of frozen foods are better sources. I would be worried about that much water after 4 days even though I let mine settle 10-14 days. You can't even think about running that.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:14 AM
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I am new at the SVO stuff and was not sure how long I should cook it. This was my first batch through my set up so there may have been water in the HWH to begin with. So what should I expect the crud to look like and how much should come out?
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:22 PM
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Dry oil is crystal clear. Any opacity indicates the presence of water. The only exception is filtered fats that have been de-watered. They will cloud up when they gel at cool temps.

You don't have to "cook" the oil. I think your 150*F mark is too low since your oil obviously is very wet. Heat to 180*F then stop the heat.

You say you wait for four days. Is the exterior of your HWH insulated? I know HWHs are internally insulated, but extra insulation is very important because de-watering occurs during S-L-O-W cooling. Get a roll of R-13 and some duct tape.

I have a bottom drain for water, sediment and fats.
I have a standpipe drain for the dry oil six inches off the bottom.
I pass the HPT 90% on my first try and always if I heat again.
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Old 07-07-2008, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hheynow View Post
I have a standpipe drain for the dry oil six inches off the bottom.
Can you explain the standpipe drain?

Here is a pic of my HWH and Filteration system. As you can see I only have one drain.

Hot Pan Test Failure-mmm1.jpg
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:37 AM
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from HERE

I used the plans for a bioD wash tank for my de-water drum.
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:55 AM
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You can also do a stand pipe from the top. Since you have a HWH you can have a piece of pipe come in from the top, but have it draw 6-8" from the bottom. That way you wont have to take apart your HWH to get a fitting in there. try 150-170 for about 6-12 hours then let sit for a few days.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:45 PM
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I now have the temp up to 160* for 4 hours...then let it cool down for 2-3 days. My first batch after doing this passed (no crackling). I am on my second batch and I am getting some crackling. What amount of crackling is acceptable if any?

I did a search of HPT on this site and did not get any hits. Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplemoutdoors View Post
What amount of crackling is acceptable if any?
Acceptable crackling
For me any bubbles are not acceptable.
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:29 AM
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i heat to 140*, turn it off when it gets to that temp and let it settle overnight and its always dry oil. I don't think there is much water in the oil i get. Also, filter your oil BEFORE you HPT it. This is the final stage of filtering/dewatering and filtering removes the particulats that are holding suspended water...remove the particles and you remove the water.
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