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  #1  
Old 09-20-2013, 09:18 AM
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Some temp questions

I've got a DIY Sky/Ski designed system; THANKS JASON! aluminum TIH, hotfox pickup, 40-plate at the engine, bosch 12v aux. pump, and heated filter.

I have an Isspro temp sensor mounted on the hot supply line, right out of the passenger side of the block. I also have an Edge evolution that I'm using just to run gauges. My engine oil temp EOT always takes longer to come up to temp than the coolant temperature. I never see higher than 185-190 deg. on the temp gauge pretty much no matter what I'm doing, even if the outside temp is in the 90's. Engine oil temp doesn't go much over 215 on a long hill, but I haven't towed anything more than a few thousand pounds; usually it's just a lot of wood in the bed. Also, I don't know where the sensor is that the evolution is monitoring oil temperature--if it's in the pan, no wonder.

I turn on my veg at 160-165 F, and have no problems with smoke as long as I'm not sitting with the truck idling. I have great power, and never have more than a 3-5psi fluctuation of my gauge ( I have set both pressure regulators to about 65psi). My veg return line ties back in behind the pump intake, so I have a loop and don't lose any heat through the return line.


The weather has been getting a LITTLE cooler--not much; like low 50's at night, but I'm needing longer to come up to temperature, and if there's a long descent, even if the coolant temp is 190F at the top, I may be in the high 140's by the bottom. I have no idea what temp thermostat I have in there, but even if it's a 185F one, shouldn't it stay more stable? I mean, we're talking 50 degree temps here, in Virginia, not the midwest or Canada. Maybe the thermostat is stuck open? I didn't think I'd need the 203F stat in these mild temps.

So, my real questions are as follows:
1. I guess I need the 203F thermostat?
2. Where is the oil temperature sensor that the Edge Evolution is monitoring?
3. Does everyone have a big difference in coolant and oil temps?
4. Will a different grill or cover help me that much?
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:47 PM
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do you have a temp sensor for the wvo?

My "coolant" reading, stealing coolant from the "otlet" off the motor..(below a/c compressor), i see upwards of 240*, but i'll flip my switch to read "coolant" where the pcm gets info, and its 180*.

Once wvo temp is up to par, it'll stay there for awhile. I turn my aux coolant pump off, and let it settle to 140-ish*, then pump her back up.

Cant help witht he EOT, since i dont have gauge, but i think, it gets its temp from the sensor, atop the hpop.
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:14 PM
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I'm not reading the PCM coolant sensor on the Evolution; I don't pay attention to the one on the dash; I just didn't display it on the EVO because it would've been redundant. Now you have me curious. I know where I'm measuring it it should be hottest--right off the block. I have an OBS truck, so my compressor is on the driver's side. Is that where you're pulling?
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:13 AM
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I've been told that the Edge won't report engine coolant temperature on the OBS models because there's no coolant sensor for the PCM, just a sensor for the EOT. I know my Edge Insight has no provisions for coolant temperature on my 96 but it does for the EOT. However, I believe the SDs do have a coolant sensor and corresponding readings.

I have an independent coolant gauge on my 96. I've observed that the temperatures of the coolant and the engine oil are very similar once the engine is warmed up. On a hot day while towing, it's common to show readings in the 220F - 230F range for both. I don't remember how much the coolant temperatures drop on a downhill run, but they do drop some.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:49 AM
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not sure about OBS's, but the SD's, will not read ECT through the OBD port, only in handshakers, will it give an ECT # reading.

Nate, i'm "pulling" coolant from the p/s port, where there IS a factory coolant hose thats attached to it. I cut it, and installed the "T", which then, routed thru the frame, back to tank. It returns the same way..(tryn to keep ur clean), and "T'd" back into the "return" line, off the heater core, which THAT l9ne, dumps into the top of the waterpump...

OK, just went and looked, the line off the motor, IS the line that "feeds" the heatercore.
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Some temp questions-coolant-outlet.jpg  

Last edited by timmyboy76; 09-21-2013 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:53 AM
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tim, my setup is plumbed the same way as yours; heater core supply line. From what temperatures people are describing here and in other threads I think I've just got a thermostat that is stuck open. I'll just replace it with a 203F model. anybody have pictures of their "wintertime" grille covers????
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:16 PM
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nate, funny you mention, "stuck t-stat". i'm think'n mines' stuck/bad as well. Ever since i installed the coolant filter kit/diy, my factory gauge sensor takes FOREVER to budge from "C". I even thought the sensor was bad, with no prevail. Hard to chaulk it up, it being the bypass, because i installed the EXACT diy kit on buddy's truck ,and didnt effect his, at all...within 5min of idling in driveway, damn needles' past the 1/4 mark.
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Old 09-21-2013, 04:39 PM
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Yeah; it used to warm up a hell of a lot quicker than it does now. Like a moron, I didn't replace the thermostat when I replaced the water pump last year. The parts store only had like a 185 or 190F model, and I didn't want to put anything in except a 205; now I wish I'd just kept the truck off the road until I found a shop with the right part. I just left the "working fine" one in the truck. Now I have to get into it a second time.


Timmyboy, what kit did you install? And what does the coolant filter accomplish??
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:29 PM
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Nate...its a DIY kit, copied from GUZZLEDIESEL website. It filters the coolant to remove the cast sand, from the factory, thats used to make the mold. The sand overtime wil cavitate the front cover.....its whats my understanding. You can have the parts from fleetfilter.com...base/filter. Other items from autost
ore/hardware store...
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:20 AM
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Woodturner,

I run a scangauge II and can get an ECT/EOT reading through the OBD. I switch veg on at 140 ECT. Ford gauge is close to center.
Summertime, on flat roads, no load, 185 to 195 ECT, EOT 15 degs higher. Veg temps always even out to ECT, sometimes a couple of degrees higher.

Pulling a trailer and/or a mtn pass, EOT will get up to the mid 220s, ECT 210ish and veg temps around 220. Fan clutch kicks in at 224EOT and I usually back off on the pull and use that as my indicator the truck is working hard.

In the winter, I run an alaska bra I made from marine vinyl. Without it, I do not see veg temps higher than 175-180. The truck struggles to keep an ECT higher than 180 with no load. Last two winters I saw 10-20 deg increase in ECT/EOT/veg from the bra. Just last week I insulated my coolant/veg bundle lines from my 20 plate FPHE under the passenger area on the frame rail to my veg distro block behind the alternator, so I don't think it will be as dramatic this winter. I was loosing a lot of heat in this 5' run with no insulation.
With the bra, in below zero blowing snow pulling my sleds, I will see 185veg on the pull side of the pass and usually switch to d2 for the 15 mile downhill. If I don't switch, veg temp will be in the 120s. It takes a few miles to gain temp to switch back over after the long coast.

The 203 deg thermostat and bra will help in the winter for sure. Where are you reading veg temp?

Are your lines insulated in the engine bay?

my bra (I'd say cardboard behind the grill will work just as good):


EOT sensor is on the backside of the HPOP I believe.

Veg-on,
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