Decided to go w/ VO instead of BIO

[prdcustoms]

OK, so I finally made up my mind. With out buying a fully automated processor, I just don't have the time to go with bio. I have a few questions on my setup. I plan to build a little larger, but cheaper version of CHenry's frybrid still.

I am going to try to explain this:

Instead of a 55 gallon holding drum for screened oil, I am going to use a 275 gallon tote.

From there, it will be transferred to my 125 gallon (285 lb. propane tank) still via a HF 1" pump.

This is where my idea gets sketchy.

I think I want to run 2 heating elements because of the size of the tank?
I found 4500 watt elements at Lowes for $10 each, they are 240 V elements that I plan to run on 120 V. Will that be adequate?
Also, can I run both elements from just 1 thermostat designed for a single element HWH, or should I use 2 seperate thermostats?
If I need to go with 2 seperate thermostats, what should I use - singles, lowers, uppers, or a combo of lower & upper?

Sorry if that got confusing!

Also, does anyone know what thread the elements are? I am hoping they are a std. pipe thread, so I can just get a female to female adapter, cut it in half, and weld them in place?

Then there is the filtering???????????

I sure as hell don't want to spend the cash on one of those fancy filters like CHenry's, so I was thinking a series of 3 - whole house water filters that go 20 - 5 - 2 micron?

Will heating the oil up, and letting it settle, get rid of enough crap to start out with a 20 micron filter?

After filtering to 2 micron (or better), another pump will take it to another 275 gallon tote for storage until ready to use.

Sorry for so many questions, but for the last 3 months, I have been researching bio, now I am starting over with SVO!

Any recomendations will be appreciated, but I gotta keep it cheap so I can afford this Vegistroke kit.

[AFBLUE]

The hot water heaters are STD 1" pipe. but on the other had I would stay away from using them as heating sources, because I have been there done that. Any particles that are in the oil will stick to the element since it gets so hot. Even if you take a 3000-4500 watt 240v heater and cut it down to 110 which will take the wattage to 1/4th. IE a 4500watt 240v is 1125watts at 110. heat vs surface area scorches the oil and the bits suspended in it. Go on Ebay and search for a Chromalux heater. You can use a 240v just divide the wattage by 4 to see what rating it is They have thermostats built in and have a knob right on the outside with the temp settings. I have a 240v 3500 watt one running on 110 so its like 875 watts, but its also 72" of 3/8" brass tube heating surface vs 24" of 1/4 metal tube on a water heater, so no scorch. Dont know what else you did ask, but I will get back to you when I read your post again.

[AFBLUE]

I am not sure what type of filtering system Chenry has, but from what I have heard the house filtering systems are not a good idea, you can use it and it wil probably be fine for a few test runs, but the yarn type filters plug in a hurry just from the oil viscosity. Case and point someone has tried to use them and they didnt work, so do a good bit of research before you go through all the trial and error that others have and waste $ buying things other people know dont work just because they are cheaper. Ask CHenry why he uses the filter system he does, I am sure its because enough other things have failed and thats what works at his capacity.

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

but cheaper version of CHenry's frybrid still.

I have not found a way to make it cheaper while workinf better at the same time...perfection comes with a price.

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

I am going to try to explain this:

Instead of a 55 gallon holding drum for screened oil, I am going to use a 275 gallon tote.

From there, it will be transferred to my 125 gallon (285 lb. propane tank) still via a HF 1" pump.

Just a larger settling drum...which i have to ask why? Put your storage at the end of the process for the cleaned oil.

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

I think I want to run 2 heating elements because of the size of the tank?
I found 4500 watt elements at Lowes for $10 each, they are 240 V elements that I plan to run on 120 V. Will that be adequate?
Also, can I run both elements from just 1 thermostat designed for a single element HWH, or should I use 2 seperate thermostats?
If I need to go with 2 seperate thermostats, what should I use - singles, lowers, uppers, or a combo of lower & upper?

One heating element operated at 120v wil be sufficient to heat 125 gallons of oil, it will take a little longer is all. Maybe 6 hours to heat it. Use the element in the lower Half of the vessel with one thermostat close by. Oil conducts heat and gets hotter faster than water.

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

Also, does anyone know what thread the elements are? I am hoping they are a std. pipe thread, so I can just get a female to female adapter, cut it in half, and weld them in place?

They are not NPT

Then there is the filtering???????????

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

I sure as hell don't want to spend the cash on one of those fancy filters like CHenry's, so I was thinking a series of 3 - whole house water filters that go 20 - 5 - 2 micron?

Will heating the oil up, and letting it settle, get rid of enough crap to start out with a 20 micron filter?

After filtering to 2 micron (or better), another pump will take it to another 275 gallon tote for storage until ready to use.

Theres no reason to use a series of filters, just get one for the final micron rating you want to achieve. Whole house water filters do not work. The hot oil will stretch the fiber material thus changing the micron rating to a much larger particle size. These filters are made to filter cool water and thats all.
You will have to use something that is made to filter oils. My setup is expensive BUT there are many many advantages over the alternatives. And there is only one alternative and that is to use a canister type oil filter such as the one on your truck. These are pricey and won't filter much before they clog. My filter bags can filter several hundred gallons before clogging and the bags cost me $3.50 The housing is large allowing a large flow volume - if you can only push 1-2 gpm through a tiny filter, it will be time consuming for this process. I can push up to 50 gpm with my housing. Now my pump won't move that much oil but the housing will handle that much flow volume. Its about time and my time in money so i want to be able to process it as quickly as possible.

[stroker27]

if you look at the water filters.... some of them say they can handle 100 degrees farenheight. wouldn't that be ok? i mean.... if you dont send the oil through at 160 degrees?

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by stroker27

if you look at the water filters.... some of them say they can handle 100 degrees farenheight. wouldn't that be ok? i mean.... if you dont send the oil through at 160 degrees?

the oil definately should not be 160*. The heating and settling process also involves cooling. As the oil cools, the settling takes place so i cool my oil to 100* - no less - and then filter it. I say no less because if its cooler than that, it will be hard to push the viscous oil through the fine filter bags i use. It actually will work down to 80* but the pressure runs higher because of the thicker oil and i like to run the pressure lower.
The whole house water filters still are not made for this and have been proven to fail.

[prdcustoms]

CHenry - I see what you are saying about the filter, but if I dont want to wait 6 hours for the oil to heat up, wouldn't a 2 element setup be better? Or should I use just one, but run it at 240 V?

As far as the settling tank, I am using a 275 tote because I collect 275 gallons at a time, and it would be nice to be able to settle one full load at a time, rather than splitting it up.

I know you have a post around here somewhere with a link to where you get your filters, but can't find it - can you post it again?

[bradyracing29]

Water heating elements are 1" NPS, not NPT which is what people consider standard pipe. Places on the net sell 1" NPS fittings you can weld in or buy a tap and make you own.

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by prdcustoms

CHenry - I see what you are saying about the filter, but if I dont want to wait 6 hours for the oil to heat up, wouldn't a 2 element setup be better? Or should I use just one, but run it at 240 V?

As far as the settling tank, I am using a 275 tote because I collect 275 gallons at a time, and it would be nice to be able to settle one full load at a time, rather than splitting it up.

I know you have a post around here somewhere with a link to where you get your filters, but can't find it - can you post it again?

The 275 gallon "settling" tank you talk about is not heated, right? Then its not really a "settling" tank. A larger version of what i have is what your describing. The tank is actually just a prefilter barrel that allows me to pour the oil through a strainer to get the larger chunks out. Some settling does occure in this tank but the actually heating and settling will take place in your heated tank. You could put 2 elements in your heating tank but DO NOT run them on 240v, thats to hot! Waiting in the oil to heat isn't a problem, you will have to wait for it to settle and cool anyway. I fill mine and turn on the heat on a timer set for 4 hours and leave it till the next day, by then the oil has heated, cooled and settled and is ready to drain off the snot and the circulate it through the filter.

[Clay Henry]

Here is the filter housing i have.
Part number 6870K59