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post #1 of 2 Old 06-29-2013, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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wiring auxiliary fuel tank swich

I'm putting an auxiliary fuel tank on my truck.can I use a switch that is on,off,on or must I use a switch made for an auxiliary fuel switch?

Late 1999 f350 4x4 drw crew cab auto trans, DI 4 position chip, AFE II air filter,ftvb, 4"down pipe into 2 5" stacks, ww, ccv mode, autometer gauges , 135,000 miles. Late 1999 f250 ext cab.4x4 auto FF stage 1 injectors non EBPV pedestal, GTP 38R turbo, hydra with powerstruck tunes, gauges. 213000 miles.
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post #2 of 2 Old 06-29-2013, 09:41 PM
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That depends on the valve you use. With a more expensive valve like the one from Greasecar, you can use a normal on/off switch. In one position the switch would provide 12v, in the other there is no power but the solenoid returns to the other tank due to having a spring.

If you use a more common Pollock valve then you will need a on/on 2 pole switch. What that means is both positions are on and you are switching two different items at once. You will have 6 connections vs 2. Picture the connections like this...

1 4
2 5
3 6

The lever of the switch either moves up or down, connecting 1 to 2 and 4 to 5 or 3 to 2 and 6 to 5 in the other position. What you would do is connect 1 and 6 to ground, 3 and 4 to 12v and 2 and 5 to the two legs of the valve. When you flip the switch one way, 2 will supply 12v and 5 will supply ground. The other direction reverses that so 2 supplies ground and 5 supplies 12v. This is necessary to reverse the current and make the valve move in both directions. Alternitavely, some switches have a bridge making these connections for you but they are harder to find.

If you want to get really fancy, you can do like I did and use one of each type of valve. I can manually select one tank for return and one for feed so I can run the pump and transfer fuel between the two. Makes it easier to drop the tank that way.

Last edited by JSchuricht; 06-29-2013 at 09:46 PM.
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