My filtration unit for WVO use

[tptfps]

If bacteria is about 3 microns, my filter system won't help. will heating to 140 degrees kill bacteria. How long will it stay bacteria free?

[mankypro]

That sure is a bee-you-tee-feul stainless filter housing! Too bad you have so much galvanized pipe in your setup! I'm fairly sure the zinc in it will react with WVO. Use black iron instead!

[orng1]

Old trans fuid has trash and metal from the clutch plates in the trans. That will contaminate the injectors.

To try to avoid bacteria you need to keep the veg oil as dry as possible. I've seen some big bacteria in oil and it usually means there is a lot of water in that oil.

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by mankypro

That sure is a bee-you-tee-feul stainless filter housing! Too bad you have so much galvanized pipe in your setup! I'm fairly sure the zinc in it will react with WVO. Use black iron instead!

Both will polymerize. When i built it i didn't know that or i would have used PVC maybe.
3 years down the road now using this setup and there has been no problem. I took a galvanized fitting off once and looked inside it and there was a layer of polymerized oil but all it could do is break loose and go to the filter which is ok.
The heating elements in the water heater polymerized too and besides replacing those with SS elements, i don't know what else i could do about that.

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by mankypro

That sure is a bee-you-tee-feul stainless filter housing! Too bad you have so much galvanized pipe in your setup! I'm fairly sure the zinc in it will react with WVO. Use black iron instead!

the filter housing is machined aluminum.

[ridiculously_necessary]

Originally Posted by Clay Henry

the filter life is entirely dependant on your heat and setle process. If you do not heat and let settle long enough, you won't get 50 gal. out of a filter. If you do, you will get 350-400 gal. though a filter.


I get the latter.

x2 on this. i get about a week setteling time, i fill about once a week so thats where that number comes from. i have one spin on 10" (i think) filter on my rotary hand pump, so far i ahve run 300 gallons through it easy, possibly more. im starting to feel resistance and will probably need to change it soon.

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Last edited by ridiculously_necessary : 06-17-2009 at 10:02 AM.

[RRonning1984]

First I have seen of this thread. Thats a cool setup Clay!

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary

x2 on this. i get about a week setteling time, i fill about once a week so thats where that number comes from. i have one sping on 10" (i think) filter on my rotary hand pump, so far i ahve run 300 gallons through it easy, possibly more. im starting to feel resistance and will probably need to change it soon.

i settle untill the oil has cooled from 150* down to about 100 which takes 48 hours in the summer and 24 hours in winter.
A tank will settle out in less time but i have to wait for it to cool.

[imdji]

I use the Cold Up-Flow settling method for my fuel. I start by dumping the cubies into the blue barrel through a 5 micron sock filter. I stop pouring when I see anything but clear oil - no PHO goes into my filter barrel.
Once full, I let that settle for a few days, then pump 8-9 gallons into the "funnel" on top of the Cold Up-Flow settling barrel (white steel).
The oil in the funnel pushes the settled oil in the barrel out the top through the spigot. I open the valve so I have a small trickle going into my finished fuel barrel (white poly).
I then mix my V/O and RUG (Regular Unleaded Gas) in the 20 gallon mixing barrel and hand pump it into the car or truck.
It's a cheap and simple method for getting clean and dry fuel, and has been working very well for me!

Attached Images

	upflow 1.jpg (84.6 KB, 15 views)
	upflow 2.jpg (81.7 KB, 10 views)

[smokeyd]

you have any good links for this Cold Up-Flow settling method?