Time to make the bio-diesel for 6.0L - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:28 AM
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Time to make the bio-diesel for 6.0L

Now that they have been out for sometime. How is bio diesel in the 6.0L?
Thinking of making it with a few other guys that have them. Any suggestions? Things you would do different?
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:34 PM
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what updates have been done on your truck?
egr, oil cooler, hpop, studs etc?
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:01 PM
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do your friends have trucks? Making bio for a vehicle that averages 15mpg at best sucks
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:45 AM
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I have been running it in mine for a few months now. A friend of mine got me started and has been running it for about 6 years in his 6.0. I to change my ICP sensor after switching, but im not sure it was related to the fuel. My friend had to change his fuel pump soon after switching over, but nothing other than that. I lost about 2 miles per gallon and a noticeable but manageable loss of power. The advice I have for you is figure out where your going to get the oil first, and make sure it titrates low before getting too involved. The big oil collection companies around Tallahassee are paying 1.30 per gallon for WVO now. There is a steep learning curve to making it, but once you get past that its very nice. The engine runs much quieter and smoother with B100.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:13 AM
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Yes , we all have trucks. And some farm equipment. Two of the trucks have EGR delete, oil coolers replaced a few other thing done too. Most of the things to make it bullet proof minus Studs. Next project!
Have not secured oil yet, but we are definitely wanting to do something. Our Gov. here in MI. just announced a new tax for fuel (.20/gal) and vehicle registration of 60% increase.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:21 AM
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Sourcing feedstock will likely be your biggest headache.

You have a good start on making your truck "bulletproof". I only asked that question because when I was doing a lot of VO conversions, I required a complete check up done on the VW's by my VW mechanic friend. WHen doing PSD'd I drove them, and checked them over as thourough as I could for two reasons: 1) Mechanical health should reduce "phantom" problems that inevitably gets blamed on the change in fuel 2) I would require anything found out of standard to be repaired so I didnt get the blame for causing it!


In addition, have you given any thought about which wash method you are going to use? As big of a PITA (and slow) water washing is, I recomend it for the 6L. In my opinion, nothing cleans B100 like a good tripple hot water wash and dry. With that said, I would recomend that you strive for a perfect 27/3 test and water washing followed by a thourough drying process. The 6L is not a resiliant fuel delivery system, and the above would make me sleep much better at night.....

And BTW, my next one will be a 6 leaker (so not to be called a 6 leaker hater). I will, however, make it completely bulletproof before changing its diet. Including Bulletproof's complete kit with Black Onyx head gaskets, Casserly remans, ARP's studs, Egr from Bulletproof, and air to air oil cooler, performance HPOP, etc.....the bow to stern, top to bottom treatment. That makes for an increadible power platform when its done....its just pretty damn expensive!
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