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Old 04-23-2012, 07:24 AM
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Modifications needed to run bio diesel?

Well my brother and I have recently started making biodiesel in our DIY setup and also recently finished our first batch. With some caution in mind we decided to run it in our IDI john deere tractor before trying it out in our own vehicles. After success with that and a nice clean burn going on we moved on to put it in my brothers 95 powerstroke. So far we haven't had any problems but I am a little scared about jumping to putting it in my truck.

So my question thus far is, is there any major modifications that need to made to OBS 7.3's, superduty 7.3's or even 6.0's while im on the topic? My brother told me that they made aftermarket injector o-rings that should be installed to prevent the bio from eating them up but I he couldn't recall where he got that information. So any help or thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Henry
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Poweystroke96 View Post
Well my brother and I have recently started making biodiesel in our DIY setup and also recently finished our first batch. With some caution in mind we decided to run it in our IDI john deere tractor before trying it out in our own vehicles. After success with that and a nice clean burn going on we moved on to put it in my brothers 95 powerstroke. So far we haven't had any problems but I am a little scared about jumping to putting it in my truck.

So my question thus far is, is there any major modifications that need to made to OBS 7.3's, superduty 7.3's or even 6.0's while im on the topic? My brother told me that they made aftermarket injector o-rings that should be installed to prevent the bio from eating them up but I he couldn't recall where he got that information. So any help or thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Henry

First off, what QA tests were performed on the B100? I.E 27/3, soap titration, water content, etc.

With under reacted fuel, (fuel not passing the 27/3) nothing major is likely to happen in a IDI or OBS/PSD 7.3's short term. Remember, passing the 27/3 consistantly is the single most important test, however a Sandy Brae water test (or even a hot pan test) could be argued to be considered as important depending on your wash/dry methods.

NOTE: I made no mention of B100 for use in a 6.0, nor will I. Its a crap shoot. User results may vary.

Injector Orings are not a concern in the above mentioned powerstroke engines. The old JD tractor, well, that may well be another matter all together.

Good quality B100 begins gelling issues around 32*F. With that said, your gepgraphic location may warrant some modifications for use in the winter, or perhaps blending with D2 would suffice. I successfully run B100 year around, with low temps of -25*F not uncommon. It can be done, and if necessary I can direct you toward some resources to help accomplish this.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:02 PM
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Just soap titration and water content.

Im still a nooby at this so can you explain or link an explanation of a 27/3 test?
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegginpsd View Post
First off, what QA tests were performed on the B100? I.E 27/3, soap titration, water content, etc.

With under reacted fuel, (fuel not passing the 27/3) nothing major is likely to happen in a IDI or OBS/PSD 7.3's short term. Remember, passing the 27/3 consistantly is the single most important test, however a Sandy Brae water test (or even a hot pan test) could be argued to be considered as important depending on your wash/dry methods.

NOTE: I made no mention of B100 for use in a 6.0, nor will I. Its a crap shoot. User results may vary.

Injector Orings are not a concern in the above mentioned powerstroke engines. The old JD tractor, well, that may well be another matter all together.

Good quality B100 begins gelling issues around 32*F. With that said, your gepgraphic location may warrant some modifications for use in the winter, or perhaps blending with D2 would suffice. I successfully run B100 year around, with low temps of -25*F not uncommon. It can be done, and if necessary I can direct you toward some resources to help accomplish this.
So how are you running b100 at -25F?
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
So how are you running b100 at -25F?
Just exactly like you do with WVO. Just at a much lower temperature. That is the beauty of B100. You only need fuel temps above 30something, and you are golden. VO, well, thats another story simone, as you know. Somewhere above 160 is the consensus, and 30something is much easier to achieve.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Poweystroke96 View Post
Just soap titration and water content.

Im still a nooby at this so can you explain or link an explanation of a 27/3 test?
This video is worth a million words....

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Old 04-23-2012, 08:18 PM
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Thank you for the video, it was very enlightening, so in the long term we would want to 27/3 test every finished batch of Bio diesel before using it in any motor?
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:57 AM
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Biodiesel is meant to be used in standard diesel engines and is thus distinct from the vegetable and waste oils used to fuel converted diesel engines. Biodiesel can be used alone, or blended with petrodiesel. Biodiesel is slowly but surely transforming into a larger factor in the fuel industry. This does not, however, mean that the market is not without its troubles. Thus, Biodiesel slowly becoming more commercially viable.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vegginpsd View Post
Just exactly like you do with WVO. Just at a much lower temperature. That is the beauty of B100. You only need fuel temps above 30something, and you are golden. VO, well, thats another story simone, as you know. Somewhere above 160 is the consensus, and 30something is much easier to achieve.

Ok. So you are starting & stopping on D2 & running bio in your heated system right? But of course you you don't have heat the bio as high as WVO, just enough to keep it from gelling. Your D2 useage must be very low.

I was hoping you had found some kind of magical additive to keep bio from gelling.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
Ok. So you are starting & stopping on D2 & running bio in your heated system right? But of course you you don't have heat the bio as high as WVO, just enough to keep it from gelling. Your D2 useage must be very low. I park in a heated garage, and have not burned any D2 since November.

I was hoping you had found some kind of magical additive to keep bio from gelling.
HA! Me too, I think. I wonder how long one could manage to stay alive having the knowledge to temperature stabilize biodiesel......I would imagine that might earn a chance to meet the fellas from Big Oil!


See above.
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