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  #1  
Old 12-14-2011, 12:40 PM
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How hot is too Hot?

I know this is a loaded questions and long post (sorry in advance), but here it goes. How hot can the VO/truck get and be ok? For example, I saw 244 on Sunday night heading east up the Eisenhower after a day in the mountains.

Unless I'm missing something, the VO should only get as hot as my coolant side, my Ford idiot temp gauge never moved from its normal spot during all of this. Now for the background:

I haven't done a write up on my system yet, but its a FN74/SkySki/Leon inspired system (thanks ya'll). 100gal heated GFS (repurposed) tank, hot fox, 20 plate FPHE, check valved, purged, HOH, Racor 1000FH and 23amp FASS pump.

The tank, filter, main CV, purge and pump are in the bed. FPHE under pass frame rail. VO goes into a Mcmaster manifold like Skyski's original setup, where the pressure and temp are read of whichever fuel is switched. Diesel and VO pumps are on separate switches and manual for now. Parker stainless CVs on the diesel lines.

I put a 203deg thermostat, billet housing, new water pump, coolant filter, etc on the truck before conversion and monitored coolant temps from the extra filter port to see what the truck temps were pre-conversion. I live in Denver and spend a lot of time raging up the Eisenhower and Vail passes with a trailer. 212 was the hottest I ever saw the coolant temps get pre-conversion.

After the conversion and during these last few summer months, 219 on VO has been the hottest. I don't have a gauge on the coolant side anymore. Typically the VO system runs at 180 until I'm pulling hard up a pass, then it rises very quickly. It's been chilly in the mountains and really effecting my temps (down 30degs to 150ish), so i made a vinyl grill cover and the temps came back up to 180 average running.

First time up the pass with the trailer and newly installed grill cover and it shot up to 222 by the time I hit the top. Sunday night, same grill cover and conditions, it hit 244 deg pulling my 3500# trailer doing 70mph (3000rpms) up the Eisenhower. I think it was 5 or 10 degrees outside.

That has to be too hot, right? I switched over to Diesel and it dropped to 220 right away as i was going into the tunnel. VO Pressure stayed good at 76psi and the diesel side always says 80psi. Switched back to VO and drove the remaining hour back to Denver, no issues yet.

Coolant had to be 244 or higher right? Ford temp Gauge never moved and the truck kept pulling hard. Fan clutch was raging, but it always does at the end of a long pull.

Sorry again for the long post, I promise to more officially introduce myself, truck and system later.

oZ
2002 F350 cclb, white work truck, 227k, the last 4k on VO and not lookin back.
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2011, 01:46 PM
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Bad temp sensor?

This summary got me thinking about my temp sensor mounted in the water pump. I hooked up my scan guage II and it doesn't show a coolant temp reading as it does on my other car. Ambient air temp registers as it should.

What are the symptoms of a bad temp sensor?

oZ
2002 F350 cclb, white work truck, 227k, the last 4k on VO and not lookin back.
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:17 PM
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my advice is to remove that front grill cover... despite if the fan was "raging" like you said.. its working harder to cool the truck since you added that grill cover. get read of it if you are going to tow nxt time...
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:33 PM
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is that temperature your oil or coolant temperature? From what I read the temp is on the coolant side but you are assuming the oil is just as hot? I have a temp gauge on both the coolant and oil side and I can tell you that the coolant is always hotter then the oil.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:06 AM
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Caliente

1bad - I will absolutely be running without the bra the next run up the mtn. I go on Wed and come back Monday so I will have some more bra-no bra info.

erbilabuc - Temp gauge is on a manifold mounted on the backside of the alternator (i'll see if can get a pic), wvo feed in, two feeds out to either head, temp gauge, pressure gauge and pressure switch. Temp gauge reads wvo when I'm switched on and it reads residual diesel that makes it up the lines when I am running diesel (diesel feeds are CV'd). AND YES I agree with you, in theory and so far in practice I would believe the coolant is always hotter than the oil. Which is why my questions about the Ford gauge as it never moved from its normal op temp reading (203-212 from when i had the same gauge mounted in my coolant filter extra port)

I posted over in the engine problems section to get some answers on the temp sensor and whether or not it works and so far, on automatics EOT is monitored by the PCM and in manuals the ECT is monitored. So it seems correct that my scan gauge isn't picking up an ECT reading as it normally does on other cars. It would seem based on this that my ford gauge is working correctly. Coolant Temp sensor issues?

My new theory:
I think my coolant was superheated as it left the motor, cooled as it went through the FPHE (making the VO superheated 244deg) continued traveling back to my tank and hotfox, then return loop back to the return line on the water pump where it is at or below normal operating temp. When it enters the water pump, it is normal temp therefore my gauge is not changing.

I need to see what my EOT is when this is happening to see if the engine is really overheating.

Last edited by MtnOilRIG; 12-19-2011 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:01 AM
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update

I need to send my Scanguage II in to have it updated to include the xgauge feature, so until then I can't read EOT or ECT through the scanner.

Ran the pass last night with the same trailer load and 6 adults in the truck, but didn't rage up like last time and the temp climbed up to 210 but stayed steady through the whole pull. I think was givin her too much skinny pedal last time.

Alaska bra was on and fully covered.

Still do not have another theory as to how the system could produce 244deg WVO temps without overheating.

Thanks for the help
oZ

02 F350, 227k, cclb, 203 deg, coolant filter, stancor GPR, max a/c, 4500miles on WVO

FN74/skyski inspired system, 100gal split tank GFS (repurposed) tank, hot fox, 20 plate FPHE, check valved, purge, HOH, heated Racor 1000FH and 23amp FASS pump.
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:27 AM
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xgauge enabled

Sent my scanguage in and they flashed it to include the xgauge capabilities. If you have an older version, it is worth the $25 to be able to monitor the TFT (trans), ECT (coolant), EOT (oil) and boost.

So far, after a few trips up and down the mountain, its seems pretty clear that the Ford Temp gauge is complete junk if you are using it for anything other when to turn your hot cabin air on. Or at least, MY Ford gauge is junk.

For instance, when the gauge reads at its halfway point, or what I was considering a warmed up truck enough to switchover, scangauge reads EOT 165, ECT 150. A little cool for a switchover in my mind, I was thinking 170-180 ECT.

Either way, the Ford gauge does not move from 160 to 230 ECT temps according to my scanguage, stays dead in the middle of the gauge the whole time. My veg temps run about 15-25degs cooler than the ECT temp most of the time. If I saw 244 veg, that would mean the ECT was around 255-260deg F.

What temp is considered overheating on our trucks? ECT or EOT.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:30 PM
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Mtn, what press temp you seeing with D2 run'n til temps are ready for switch and what press temp you seeing when wvo pump is run'n? I havethe exact same set-up (minus using ur style pump), and seems i'm hit'n around 85psi +/-, and with wvo pump on, around same numbers, sometimes climbs past the 90+....My press gauge is on the manifold, tucked in the valley...Also, hows ur start-up? Did it change once ur sytem was installed, because mine went from 1-2sec start to now atleast 5sec of cranking....its pi$$'n me off.
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:24 AM
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She's gonna blow

Stock D2 pump runs at 80psi all day long, never changes, rompin on it up the mountain or idling.

When I switch over to Veg, I switch off the stock D2 pump and just run the FASS. Are you running both? Veg pressure starts out at 80 psi but settles in around 75psi after a few miles of driving or a few minutes of idling. With a fresh filter it stays at 80psi on veg. Rompin up the mountains it will dip to the 70 psi mark, sometimes as low as 65psi on the longer higher rpm pulls. If I run both pumps at the same time it goes back up to 80psi and is steady.

My pressure/temp fuel block manifold sits behind the alternator similar to yours I suppose (not sure I've seen pics)?

Could your pressure regulator on the D2 fuel bowl be bad/dirty causing your higher pressures? I think they are cleanable, maybe its sticking. You are nearing too much pressure for the injectors to fire happily at 90psi.

My cranking has been the same, but the cold has made a difference. I just did the glow plugs in Feb and that made a huge difference. 4 of 8 were not working (3 on pass side and 1 on drivers) so maybe you could test the resistance of yours and see. I think mine were 1.2 ohms on the good ones and infinite on the bad ones. The ole girl is much happier with the GPs firing like they should.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for the response Mtn..

I have 2-pumps..D2 and the Raw power for wvo. I also have a switch on my D2. When starting out, allowing GP's to cycle, my D2 gauge is 70psi (located at fuel bowl), my wvo gauge reads 60+/-psi..(D2 flows thru the wvo lines, back to the puge valve, located in the box). After i fire it up, D2 gauge reads 70PSI, ALL DAY LONG...however, the wvo gauge will read the 90psi-ish... Vise-versa, once switch to wvo, the D2 gauge drops to nothing (like it should, since CV's are installed), but my wvo gauge reads 85-90psi-ish.

Also, once i installed the system, it now has the dreaded long cranking, once it fires, i can shut it off, without purging, and truck will fire right back up. Thats whats leading me to think, pressure for start-up isnt there..but once fired, the wvo gauge, spikes high, highert hen the D2 gauge, which that gots me..

I'm gonna switch my the wires to gauges under dash, and see if its my gauge orsomething, along with removing gauge from valley manifold, and installing it back at manifold in box....

3rd pic is of the little manifold in box, where i installed a pressure relief to help with, if reading are correct, pressure in wvo ines.
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