Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rocky Mountains Front Range
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Bad temp sender?
Have you checked your temps with an infrared gun close to where your temp sender is? Just a thought to rule out one variable. I bought a $30 one and keep it in the truck as a good way to trouble shoot.
Can you isolate the loop to your in tank exchanger? My truck will hardly come up to running temp when I have the loop for my tank heat exchanger open. when the wvo in tank is frozen, coolant temp in will be 150 and out will be 60 or lower back to the water pump. Your tank is acting like a huge radiator by heating the mass uninsulated. Hotfox might be an option and only use the in tank exchanger when it is super cold? I only open my tank exchanger loop to unfreeze and transfer oil between sides in my 100gal tank (GFS split tank). As you said, it will take FOREVER to heat your 40 gallons full tank when it is frozen solid. Let alone get heat to the cabin.
An alaska bra made a 30-40deg (150s-->180s) difference at highway speeds for my system in 5-10deg outside temps. Some folks are just running a piece of cardboard between the a/c and radiator, i think the bra looks and functions pretty well so far. Maybe even too well on mtn pass pulls.
Maybe try insulating your FPHE, mine looses a ton of heat it seems. 2" blue polystyrene is what I will be using, nobody sees it under there anyway.
Sorry to bombard you with thoughts, this is my first winter with my homebrew system and I am learning as well.
02 F350, 227k, cclb, 203 deg, coolant filter, stancor GPR, max a/c
FN74/SkySki inspired system, 100gal split tank GFS (repurposed) tank, hot fox, 20 plate FPHE, check valved, purge, HOH, heated Racor 1000FH and 23amp FASS pump.