6.0 diy wvo conversion

[mpiller]

At the moment I have a pretty modified greascar setup on my 2000 f250 7.3, it uses a fass hd pump for wvo, stock pump for diesel, wvo has its own filter and diesel uses the stock filter, after the filters i us two valves tocselect the fuel and the return lines, and ive got two 5 pos relays set up to control which pump turns on/off. Everything is controlled with one switch so when you flip the switch the diesel pump turns off and the fass turns on, and the valves switch over, so diesel and wvo never mix. The system works great and Ive put about 10k miles on it so far, but my question is can i put this same setup on a 6.0? I have a chance to get an 06 6.0 and I'm wondering how difficultit will be to put this setup on the new truck? I havent seen and diy systems on a 6.0, ive only seen the vegistroke.
Thanks

[mpiller]

anyone? I imagine someone has to have a diy system on a 6.0

[erbilabuc]

I think the only difference is the banjos

[simone0414]

Go to BFT's site & download their install manual for the 7.3 & 6.0. That will tell you the differences. There is not many differences.

[BruceM]

Only major problem I would see is that you'd want a very robust fuel pump on the WVO side, and the ability to adjust your fuel pressure, I have a Fass that is preset at 75psi on my 7.3L, and I don't think I'd use it on a 6.0. I'd want to have an adjustable one. Is your Fass a fixed PSI or adjustable? The 6.0L's are very picky about fuel pressure, way more so than a 7.3L, well within reason.

Other than that I can't see to many problems. Make sure you add an Aux coolant pump too, so you get good heating of your WVO. Both the 7.3 and the 6.0 benefit greatly from aux pumps.

[mpiller]

My pump is the new one with the 23 amp motor and adjustable regulator so I would be fine there. I dont have any problems with heat on my 7.3, but if I get a 6.0 Ill remember the aux coolant pump. What I am really wondering is will the way I have mine set up now with the valve work or will I need to switch to the check valve vegistroke style system? I personnaly feel that my solenoid valves are more reliable then check valves

[BruceM]

Dunno about solenoid valves being my reliable, I know there were problems with the brass check valves back in the beginning, but most everyone uses stainless now. I used Parker instrumentation Stainless check valves with a viton seat, they are rated to 3000psi and can be rebuilt for $5 and I can do that rebuild while leaving the bottom part of the CV in the head (the body splits in two sections). I used a 10PSI cracking pressure, so that the spring would have a little push on it to close nice and tight. granted I've only put a little over 15k miles on them, but they seem to be holding up perfectly, which is more than I can say for my brass valve back by my VO pump. That valve seems to not be a bubble tight seal, and leaks back a little diesel, but I guess thats not a real problem since I still burn it when I turn on the VO.

Check valves are technically simpler than solenoid valves, since there is only a spring and ball/shuttle as the moving parts. with a solenoid valve you have the potential of having an electrical problem be a "problem", the solenoid itself could stick, and/or the magnet that moved the innards of the solenoid could have a problem. Though I think the solenoids that people are using for better WVO setups are prolly equal to the reliability of using CV's on a Powerstroke.

I've got the same motor on my Fass, just not the adjustable aspect for pressure, but I haven't seen a need for it. I've tried my best to suck my VO fuel pressure down, and I cant get it to go below 58PSI and that's with my trailer loaded with 8000lbs on it pulling hard up a really long hill. I have to back off the fuel cause I was hitting 1300F and I was pushing a little to hard

[ridiculously_necessary]

Im with Bruce, id venture to say a cv is more reliable. i got mine from mcmaster, 3k psi as well. Bruce, do you ahve a link to your cv? i like the rebuild options, but the only ones i foudn were rated 15psi, i bought a couple before i knew their rating, one failed. after some digging i finally found the 15 psi rating.

the 3k psi valves i got from mcmaster worked perfectly. im swapping them over to the new truck.

[simone0414]

I have had 3 way valves on my Serria & check valves on my PSD. I like the CV's way better. No electrical to run or worry about. I had a problem with my 3 way valves sticking . Plus they take up room in the engine bay. Yes the CV`s can fail but if you get good quailty ones they will last a long time. I got my SS CV`s from Leon & have 40k miles on them. My VO CV is from Mcmaster. The same type SkySkiJason is running. Also the CV setup looks so much cleaner. It takes up no room in the engine bay. If you look under my hood you the only thing you will be see other then stock is 2 coolant lines, 2 VO lines, my auxillary coolant pump & my FPHE mounted on the firewall by the brake master cyclinder. When you need to work on the engine there is nothing that needs to be removed.

I thought the 7.3 & 6.0 run at the same fuel pressure.

[ridiculously_necessary]

Originally Posted by simone0414

I have had 3 way valves on my Serria & check valves on my PSD. I like the CV's way better. No electrical to run or worry about. I had a problem with my 3 way valves sticking . Plus they take up room in the engine bay. Yes the CV`s can fail but if you get good quailty ones they will last a long time. I got my SS CV`s from Leon & have 40k miles on them. My VO CV is from Mcmaster. The same type SkySkiJason is running. Also the CV setup looks so much cleaner. It takes up no room in the engine bay. If you look under my hood you the only thing you will be see other then stock is 2 coolant lines, 2 VO lines, my auxillary coolant pump & my FPHE mounted on the firewall by the brake master cyclinder. When you need to work on the engine there is nothing that needs to be removed.

I thought the 7.3 & 6.0 run at the same fuel pressure.

which cv are you running from mcmaster? mine is part # 46105K65