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post #1 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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New set up

I have acquired almost all components for my DIY on my 2000 7.3. I saw on here somewhere a few months back as I was doing bunches of research, a system someone put together and in it was a valve to enable them to change the VO line filter. I can't find that to look at it now, so could someone either point me the way, or just answer these two questions.
By the way, this was to keep air out of the line/pump when changing the oil filter.

1) What is the best valve to use?
2) Where is the best place to install the valve on the line? I am guessing after the pump and before the filter.

One other question that I have unrelated to the above is when I do get the system in place and on first start. How do I bleed the air out of the lines, or do I need to even worry about air in the line?
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 09:24 AM
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you are running two pumps right?

the valves you are looking for are mini-ball valves. ebay has them cheap. one immediatly before and after the filter.

inital purge on the system depends on how your have your fuels tied into the motor. are yor using all 4 ports? do you have a purge valve?

if you have a purge valve, open it and turn the pump one. if no purge valve then with another person, run the pump and pump fuel into a bottle, shut it off and plug the line with your finger. plumb the line into the fitting quickly. kinda porr mans purge. any remaining air will be in your rails and will push out quickly (yes, unfortuantly through the injectors, but once or twice shoudl be fine).

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post #3 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary View Post
you are running two pumps right?

the valves you are looking for are mini-ball valves. ebay has them cheap. one immediatly before and after the filter.

inital purge on the system depends on how your have your fuels tied into the motor. are yor using all 4 ports? do you have a purge valve?

if you have a purge valve, open it and turn the pump one. if no purge valve then with another person, run the pump and pump fuel into a bottle, shut it off and plug the line with your finger. plumb the line into the fitting quickly. kinda porr mans purge. any remaining air will be in your rails and will push out quickly (yes, unfortuantly through the injectors, but once or twice shoudl be fine).
Yes, using all four ports. Yes, have a purge valve. Didn't think about air going through that, but makes sense.

But even with the purge valve, some air will be in the line after the purge. I guess then we jump to any remaining air will be in your rails...

Let's go to the valves. Please explain the purpose of both valves. I am guessing lock oil in lines on both sides for the filter change? That does make sense.

Thanks
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-09-2011, 05:29 AM
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I don't think you will have a problem with air but if you want after bleeding the air out up to the purge valve start the truck on D2 & open the purge valve for a couple seconds. That will bleed the rest of your system. I really don't think you will need to do this though. Once you get the VO filter & VO pump primed you should be ok.

The purpose of the manual valves on either side of the filter is so you can isolate the filter when changing it. If you don't already have one I would highly suggest that you put a manual valve on your purge line. You can close it enough so when you purge you don't lose all your fuel pressure & if your purge valve ever sticks open you can shut the valve & still drive.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-09-2011, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
I don't think you will have a problem with air but if you want after bleeding the air out up to the purge valve start the truck on D2 & open the purge valve for a couple seconds. That will bleed the rest of your system. I really don't think you will need to do this though. Once you get the VO filter & VO pump primed you should be ok.

The purpose of the manual valves on either side of the filter is so you can isolate the filter when changing it. If you don't already have one I would highly suggest that you put a manual valve on your purge line. You can close it enough so when you purge you don't lose all your fuel pressure & if your purge valve ever sticks open you can shut the valve & still drive.
I have a needle valve on the purge line, so I think that will work. Will set to about 17 psi...at least that is what I am told to do.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-09-2011, 07:23 AM
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The needle valve won't help you if the purge valve sticks open. If it does your dead in the water. It happened to me & the manual valve allowed me to keep driving until I freed it up.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-09-2011, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
The needle valve won't help you if the purge valve sticks open. If it does your dead in the water. It happened to me & the manual valve allowed me to keep driving until I freed it up.
Ok, so I need another valve for the purge line. Thanks
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-09-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Labhunter View Post
Ok, so I need another valve for the purge line. Thanks
When your purge valve eventually fails you will be glad to installed the manual one.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-10-2011, 02:57 PM
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yup put a valve after the purge and also put one after all your VO stuff so you can cut off the VO side should something there fail. My valve has saved me a couple times! I even made a post about it. something like "I dont care what system you have, you need this" or something like that....

Just a basic 01 F350 CCLB SRW -Good from a far but far from good
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-11-2011, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
I don't think you will have a problem with air but if you want after bleeding the air out up to the purge valve start the truck on D2 & open the purge valve for a couple seconds. That will bleed the rest of your system. I really don't think you will need to do this though. Once you get the VO filter & VO pump primed you should be ok.

The purpose of the manual valves on either side of the filter is so you can isolate the filter when changing it. If you don't already have one I would highly suggest that you put a manual valve on your purge line. You can close it enough so when you purge you don't lose all your fuel pressure & if your purge valve ever sticks open you can shut the valve & still drive.
Do I want the manual shut off valve (purge line) before or after the purge valve?
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