couple questions on solenoid valves and fuel pump wirirng

[dazdillenger]

Hey guys-I was interested in building a simple manual system, was hoping someone could school me on solenoid valve placement, and how you're shutting down your factory pumps-just cutting power when the vegie pump is energized? I'd like to use my upfitter switches to power the vegie pump/shut down the factory pump-anyone doing this?

Thanks!

[simone0414]

Originally Posted by dazdillenger

Hey guys-I was interested in building a simple manual system, was hoping someone could school me on solenoid valve placement, and how you're shutting down your factory pumps-just cutting power when the vegie pump is energized? I'd like to use my upfitter switches to power the vegie pump/shut down the factory pump-anyone doing this?

Thanks!

What year truck do you have?? Need to know in order to help you.

[dazdillenger]

lol-sorry. I have a 2005 6.0.

I figured I need check valves for the d2 lines in the front, and to remove the plugs in the rear of the heads to put new lines for the wvo. Where I'm a bit confused is where the solenoid valves come into play. I guess I can cut the power to my fuel pump with a switch, and then power on the fass pump I intend to use for the wvo, but I'd like to find a way to do that with one switch-I know the concept is the same for the 7.3, with the main differences for the 6.0 being in the plumbing. I'm a blank canvas right now-School me!

(I'm new to wvo, but not to wrenching)

Lets hear it!

[dazdillenger]

and I was REALLY wanting to use a cab and chassis aft mount tank for my wvo rather than a bed mounted unit-I have a STUPID shortbox, so bed space is at a premium.

[simone0414]

You don't need to use any soleniod valves for switching fuels just one in your VO conversion for purging. I used a 2 relay setup for turning the D2 pump off & the VO pump on. This is a diagram of how to set up these relays dual pump relay 2 - Forums. This relay setup keeps power going to the PCM so you don't get a code.

Yes you do need check valves for the D2 lines & use the plugged ports to connect your VO lines. You will also need a CV in the VO system located just after your VO filter. The conversion for the 6.0 is exactly the same as the 7.3 with the expection of where the plugged ports are for the VO lines & I think where you tap into the heater hoses is a bit different. Go to Biofueltechnoligies. They have a installation manual you can download which shows you where to tap into the coolant lines & how to install the VO lines.

Some keys to successfully running VO are keeping the fuels seperate until they get to the heads. This means a complete second VO system. Tank, fuel lines, pump, filter & you should have a FPHE as well. Never switch to VO until the truck is up to operating temp & purge & then run the truck for a min or 2 to flush the heads of VO & burn up the VO in the injectors before shutting down. Never idle on VO for extended periods of time.

Hopefully this answers some your questions. I`m sure you will have more so don`t be shy about asking.

[dazdillenger]

what is to stop the #2 from mixing with the wvo without check valves on the rear banjo's as well? and, a bit more of an explanation into the solenoid valve usage would be very helpful (maybe a recomendation on brand/supplier)

and the only other question I have is-CV? pardon my ignorance.

I intend to only use the WVO setup on trips-the majority of my driving will be on #2

Other than that, I think I have a good grasp on this.

[erbilabuc]

Only thing I have to add is try and find someone local that has done it. Even if it is a different vehicle all together it will help a ton because the theory in a 2 tank system is the same.

[dazdillenger]

I get the whole-never mix the fuels-concept. I intend to have a completely seperate tank, pump, lines, etc. Never will the two fuels ever co-exist, with the exception of in the heads during purging.

The only thing I'm still a bit fuzzy on is the solenoid valve for purging. That is where I need assistance!

Thanks guys

[ridiculously_necessary]

that solenoid could go on the wvo side, before the cv. basically have it open with a momentary switch while you are running d2. this would allow a return to the wvo side (preferably right before the wvo pump with a tee) keep it open for a few seconds then shut it off. you would want a normally closed valve, and put either a regualtor or small ball valve opened slightly to keep your fuel pressure while purging.

this is one of many options. guys who have done a DIY purge may have some better ideas.

[dazdillenger]

I'm not going to need check valves on the rear of the heads for the wvo as well as the d2 am I?

So the solenoid valve will open to allow d2 to push the wvo back out of the heads to speed up purging. a ball valve will be installed so as not to lose all fuel pressure. Is that about right? Looking forward to suggestions!