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Old 04-19-2011, 08:25 AM
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Looking For Some BioDiesel Processor Parts

I am looking for some additional parts so my buddy and I can add on to his processor, he currently has a 1 tank system and we would like to add another tank for washing instead of having to do it in the same tank. I am also looking for the following parts if anyone has any good suggestions on where to find reasonably prices equipment.

-50 Gallon or so cone shaped plastic tank with lid
-110V pump to pump from existing tank to new tank
-110v pump to pump methenol into existing tank
-inline filter to filter down to 10 microns when pumping from Veggie holding tank into mixing tank

We are using a single 50 gallon tank system so any suggestions on how to make this better would be great.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:50 AM
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for settling/wash tanks you can use a 55 gal barrel flipped over. one port would draw from the bottom and the other from a standpipe. I had 4 of these in my setup. Next for the pump the hf blue pump has done me well over the years. its slow but works. I would use it to mix and after the settling/drain step I would use it to pump the oil into the settling barrel. worked well. Also look into the 5% prewash. and I highly suggest you look at a dry wash resin. I had good luck with purolite in a pair of gravity fed corrny kegs.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:27 PM
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Right now all we are doing is washing it with warm water, I have heard alot of good things about the dry washing but am clueless as how to do it or set up a tank to do it.... I am new to this biodiesel thing.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:15 AM
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I used 2 corney kegs. you can find them on craigslist or at any homebrew beer place. lots of people use them to brew their own beer. I got mine for maybe $25 each on craigslist. Since there is already a dip tube in the keg, wrap a screen around the tube




I put 3 or 4 pounds of purolite in each keg. I did one as up flow and the other as down flow. this was because everyone said lots of good and bad about each method so I thought I would do both

After settling for as long as I could (usually 2- 3 weeks) I would pull from the stand pipe in my settling tank and fill the top barrel, then let it gravity feed through the kegs into another barrel that I would roll out to the truck to fill up.



Tricks I learned....
5%pre wash!!
let the first process settle as LONG as you can to get the glycerine out. after you get it out, turn on the heat and the mixer and heat out the methanol for a bit (or capture it with a still) after this has happened sent it to a settling tank. Let it settle AS LONG as you can here also. The more time the gunk has to settle out, the better your drywash stuff will work and the longer it will last. biod is all about TIME! if you rush things you will end up with lesser quality fuel.

my final setup before I quit looked like this:

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Old 04-20-2011, 10:45 AM
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Pick our system apart and help us improve :)

Ok, so here is what we have for a system, no pictures yet but will get one up soon. 65 gallon processing tank, 55 gallon metal drum with 100 micron strainer that we dump the WVO into. Start out by heating up the oil to 120 Degrees, then pump it into the processing tank. Do the titration test, the lye gets added to the lid and then the methanol gets injected through the lid and mixed with the lye, which when doing so the methanol is splashing everywhere because the pump threads won't screw into the top of those plastic 55 gallon drums like they are suppose to. I know this suff is very poisonous and this is not safe at all. So the methanol and lye mix in the lid and eject into the processor, this process usually takes 10 minutes because you slowly introduce the methanol. Then we let it agitate with the pump (hooked up to mix internally) for 60 min. After that we let it settle for a couple hours and then wash it with warm water. I know you are suppose to do 5% but my buddy does way more than that, typically on a 20 gallon batch he washes it 3 to 4 times with probably 6 gallons when it should only be 1 gallon right? Then he lets it settle, and bleeds of the glycerin and water(does this after each wash). Lets it sit over night and then transfers to his fuel tank. Only filtered down to 100 Microns at the beginning. I am open to constructive criticism and I am trying to help him make his system better.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:52 AM
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the 5% pre wash is different than washing. put the methoxide in and let it mix. before you shut off the mixer add 5% water to the processor and let it mix for 30 minutes or more. shut it down and let settle for 1 to many days. drain off the glycerine. now you wash like you did before. Or send this stuff to another tank where you can wash it and process another batch in the mixer. washing has no limit or rate to use. you use as much water as it takes. I was using 100 gal sometimes to clean a 25 gal batch of bio. This is why I went with the dry wash resin.

you need a better way to mix the methanol and the lye. that stuff should be mixed well before its put into the wvo. also its some NASTY stuff. do not breath it or get any on your skin. it will eat your skin FAST. ITS NASTY STUFF!!
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:06 AM
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I have about $300 to invest into the system right now. I was hoping to get an inline filter to add going form the WVO tank to the processor so when we pumped it in it would filter it down to 25 microns or so, and also we talked about adding another 55 gallon drum to pump the fuel into after it is done and heating it at 220 degrees to get all of the water out. Those 60 gallon cone tanks with a stand are about $200 not shipped, would a clear 55 gallon barell built like yours and a slight slant so the crude would come out first be a good idea? Then run it from that tank, lets call that the wash tank, into the second 55 gallon drum to heat up to 220 with another inline filter in between the wash tank and "heat tank" so to speak filtering it down to 10 microns? That tank would be heated with a band heater too, I am not smart enough to wire up a water heater element, and not sure how to thermostatically control it well enough to get it up to 220 degrees. Thanks by the way for the info, I really do appreciate it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:20 PM
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220 deg is way too high for hdpe (those poly barrels or cone tanks) you should stay under 150 when using hdpe. barrels can be had for free to $20 each. I got many from car wash places for free. Look on craigslist, ill be they are all over for $10 to $15 each.

for your "heat" tank use a metal barrel. My processor that I would heat the oil in to "burn" off the water before processing, and also to boil off the methanol was a metal barrel that my buddy welded a pipe into the bottom for me. then I proped up the back to help the crud come out first.




for your wash tanks build something like this
Standpipe Wash Tank - Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial

I used this same idea for my long term settling tanks (the 4 tanks in the pic above). the crud would fall below the standpipe and I would pull the good(ish) bio from the tank and put it into the gravity feed to the kegs.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the pics! Yes, sorry I did mean for the barrel that was going to get heated up to 220 to be a metal barrel, I didn't specify that before. I would have the 2nd poly barrel for washing, and then transfer from that to the 2nd metal barrel (the first metal barrel would hold the WVO to be transferred to the processor). Two questions, A. where did you find the filter setup that you are using there, can you post a link to ebay or wherever? And 2. what are you using for a heater in that tank? Maybe I could use a heater like that on my first metal barrel, the WVO barrel to heat that up to 120 to be introduced to the processing tank, run it through those filters and into the processing tank...?
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:43 AM
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Another question, would it be possible or even necessary to add an addition inline filter kit to my truck bolted onto the frame underneath or would this make it too difficult to maintain proper fuel pressure?
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