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post #1 of 22 Old 03-05-2011, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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NEED SOME INPUT

okay so i have about $2,000 to spend on my oil retrieval system, filtering system and my conversion for my 2000 F250.

Retrieval Plan:
rotary hand pump- 8 gpm/90rpm with hoses attached to both ends feeding into a 55 gal barrel in the back of my truck.

My filtering plan so far:
4- 1 micron filter bags set into a barrel top
Looking to buy a 55 gal drum band heater to heat the oil to dewater.

My Conversion: I believe this is how it should go. Thanks to Ridiculously Necessary

fuel path should be - tank with heated pickup and 150 or so screen > pump > filter > fphe > check valves > head
what is a 15o screen? another filter right after the tank?

how does the oil get pulled from the tank?

I want to build my own conversion for the sole purpose to get more familiar with my truck and the mechanics of what actually is happening in my engine.

I have ideas for tanks: i know steel is out of the question. But is there any problems with polyurethane or just basic plastic tool boxes.
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post #2 of 22 Old 03-06-2011, 01:45 PM
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My thought's in red


Quote:
Originally Posted by jgrimes View Post
okay so i have about $2,000 to spend on my oil retrieval system, filtering system and my conversion for my 2000 F250.

Retrieval Plan:
rotary hand pump- 8 gpm/90rpm with hoses attached to both ends feeding into a 55 gal barrel in the back of my truck.
Have you thought about converting a small block chevy pump? melling55 is the model, I did one and it's linked in my sig. I run it with a cordless drill, self priming and it sure beats a hand pump!

My filtering plan so far:
4- 1 micron filter bags set into a barrel top
Looking to buy a 55 gal drum band heater to heat the oil to dewater.
Band heaters aren't cheap, I put a water heating element into the side of my settling drum (also linked in sig) and it works PERFECTLY and the real key is time, let it settle

My Conversion: I believe this is how it should go. Thanks to Ridiculously Necessary

fuel path should be - tank with heated pickup and 150 or so screen > pump > filter > fphe > check valves > head
what is a 15o screen? another filter right after the tank?
Yes, it's just a pre filter to protect your pump

how does the oil get pulled from the tank? Depends, what tank are you using? The heated pick up can be plumbed into your fuel pump and there ya go.

I want to build my own conversion for the sole purpose to get more familiar with my truck and the mechanics of what actually is happening in my engine.
Good for you! I'm in the same thought patern.


I have ideas for tanks: i know steel is out of the question. But is there any problems with polyurethane or just basic plastic tool boxes.
I'd skip the tool box, not sure what you meant by that question. Plastic tanks are good to go.

97 F250 ext cab lwb 4x2
AirDog2 and FASS HD (it's a WVO RR setup)
Simple Centrifuge filtering method
203 degree Mod, DIY homegrown intake, CCV mod, battery relocation,
215amp Ambulance Alt.
EBPV gut, Pedestal gut & cut
Diamond Eye 4" (3" dp) turbo back straight pipe no kitty, no muffler


http://wasteveggieoilexplorations.shutterfly.com
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post #3 of 22 Old 03-06-2011, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Aaron thanks for that info. I never thought of anything like that for a pump.
I think my next trip will be to the salvage yard. Anything that looks like it will work is getting pulled.

The retrieving and the cleaning is the easy part it looks like. Just time consuming.

The heated pickup is the HIH tube tapped into the tank running through to the filter > pump >fphe> check valves> head.

I think im just over thinking this. Its just phases from the tank to the engine head. Then you gotta find where to put it all.

I have been checking your adventure out. Where is the fuel bowl and how would they mix.
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post #4 of 22 Old 03-06-2011, 03:48 PM
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The fuel bowl is where the fuel filter in the valley is. That canister that holds the filter is the fuel bowl.

On my truck, the previous owner brought the feed line from the WVO tank through the pollack valve up into the engine bay, and then plumbed it into the stock fuel pump.

ALL my fuel ran through the stock fuel filter, and when I would switch back to diesel it would take FOREVER to get the wvo out of the fuel bowl. So long in fact, that I believe the wvo was NEVER fully purged from the fuel bowl.


What fuel pump and regulator set up are you using?

Come on don't be shy, post up any and ALL info you have so far.

97 F250 ext cab lwb 4x2
AirDog2 and FASS HD (it's a WVO RR setup)
Simple Centrifuge filtering method
203 degree Mod, DIY homegrown intake, CCV mod, battery relocation,
215amp Ambulance Alt.
EBPV gut, Pedestal gut & cut
Diamond Eye 4" (3" dp) turbo back straight pipe no kitty, no muffler


http://wasteveggieoilexplorations.shutterfly.com
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post #5 of 22 Old 03-06-2011, 05:25 PM
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i am by no means an expert in WVO, but here are a few things to consider...

1. A hand up will get old fast, really fast. I have been collecting now for about 3 months, i am using a small 110v transfer pump on an inverter and it works great. I think i picked it up at Lowes...

2. I will be using a 10gal HWH for my heat before i fuge... my oil will be pretty good and settled before i begin to filter...

3. Put your fuel system configuration on paper, it will greatly help you understand where things should be and how they should work. Ridiculous has a great schematic that he is more than willing to share. Personally i would go with a heated pickup that has a fuel sending unit so you can monitor your WVO levels, like a HotFox or Articfox. Both are coolant heated and have a sending unit which can be wired to a fuel gauge. HIH is a must for all your fuel lines. I also plan on adding a FPHE to my setup.

4. RESEARCH, RESEARCH, and RESEARCH SOME MORE...! My conversion has been 6 months in the making while i decided how i wanted things to work, perfecting the design (not totally done there yet), and collected the parts... I am still collecting the parts!!!

Good luck with the conversion and keep us posted on how it goes!!

_____________________________________________
Seth

Stroked_NY_023
95' F-350 CCLB DRW POWERSTROKE
08 Axle/4x4 conversion, 5spd conversion, 6637, 5" SP exhaust, gearhead tunes
.]
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post #6 of 22 Old 03-07-2011, 04:05 AM
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Keep the fuels completely seperate until they get to the heads. Don't run VO through the stock filter. You will never get a full purge. Don't use copper anywhere in your VO fuel system. It is a poly maker. Brass is not much better. Use stainless, aluminum or black iron. I used black iron as is was the cheapest. I did use ss braided hose & aluminum fittings for the veg lines going to the heads.

For filtration I would highly suggest a gravity feed centrifuge. I use a ACME Juicerator which cost me about a hundred bucks to buy & modify. Works very well.

Make sure you have a oil source lined up before doing any of this.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #7 of 22 Old 03-07-2011, 05:42 AM
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RN is nearly done with his conversion. hook up the veg line to the CV, purge both sides, then fill line with coolant and attach fittings and done! about an hour or so work left.

i have been taking pics, so i will share those as well, along with adjusting my DIY post to match parts used. i hope to be done this week. its raining until wednesday for now.

what is the climate where you live? this will help us help you on fuel pickup decision. but i am enclined to say, hotfox is your best best. if your in Canada we will go a step further.

1. dont use a hand pump. been there. get an electric pump or make a super sucker. best option is if you can collect indoors with a 5 gallon bucket or origional cubies. espicailly if you dont have a centrifuge.
1a. supersucker is an old propane tank. X number of gallons, put a vacuum pump on it, pull vacuum, and use that to suck oil from your source, then attach it to an air compressor to emtpy at home.
2. if you are filtering without a fuge, consider spin on fitlers, 2 or 3, placed after an electric pump, push the oil through the spin ons. less mess that way. in either case, save for a centrifuge. better filteration, and can be left unattended and no mess.
3. i have used electric heat for a couple of years. works fine, but i only have 110v available. its very slow. i will now be using propane, 55 gal drum, $25 propane weed torch from harbor freight, and propane cylinder. about $50.

im glad to hear your doing a DIY. its best to know how your system works, ground up! i dont know that i have pics of the bowl and pump. but i do have pics of the bowl and pump delete. as well as the useage of the stock banjo bolt.

-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder , 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
DB high torque starter
DIY 6637
Marinco Mod
DIY Electric fuel w/ wvo conversion

"A clean house is a sign of a mis-lead life."

Last edited by ridiculously_necessary; 03-07-2011 at 05:48 AM.
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post #8 of 22 Old 03-07-2011, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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I live in Central California of the coast.
so what i have right now isnt much. Ive been saving money and been reluctant to buy the wrong stuff. I am starting from scratch.

My retrieval was by hand with buckets and dipping into the vat. i got about 30 gal and decided never again. GROSS!!

My storing is 55 gal plastic barrels. Soon to be 250 gal totes.
I ahve one 55 gal metal drum that will be used fro the heating element.

Conversion: got nothin.

i get nervous about getting the stuff and it not working. It keeps me from jumping in and just figuring it out. Im going to bulid a diagram and plan this out more. then i will post the diagram pic. I hope it will help me visualize the plan to execution.
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post #9 of 22 Old 03-07-2011, 07:46 AM
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Sounds like you are better off buying a kit.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #10 of 22 Old 03-07-2011, 08:18 AM
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Go for it Grimes, posting up your diagram and having each major component listed will you net you a Ton of info from us.

So your going to do the water heater element for the drum? My total cost was around $30 for heating my 55gal drum. All you need is a hole saw, and a bolt on heater element mount, and then some sealant. I was nervous about it being leak free, but mine has seen near 200 degree heat and been installed for about a year now, no problem.

The conversion is going to be your money pit.
Go cheap on the filtering for now, let settling time do the work for you. Mount your drums or totes up HIGH, gravity will be your friend when it comes time to transfer fluids. Gravity saves you money on pumps.

Don't be afraid to try something different that the rest of us, just think it through.

97 F250 ext cab lwb 4x2
AirDog2 and FASS HD (it's a WVO RR setup)
Simple Centrifuge filtering method
203 degree Mod, DIY homegrown intake, CCV mod, battery relocation,
215amp Ambulance Alt.
EBPV gut, Pedestal gut & cut
Diamond Eye 4" (3" dp) turbo back straight pipe no kitty, no muffler


http://wasteveggieoilexplorations.shutterfly.com
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