Fpr all Powerstrokers with a rusty/leaky oil pan - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 7 Old 12-11-2010, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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Fpr all Powerstrokers with a rusty/leaky oil pan

This might actually work.


2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-13-2010, 01:22 PM
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my question si where does the continually rotting pan go? in the oil system? granted oil alone should keep it from rotting so fast. but i would still be nervous...

but i guess if its not completely rusted through...

-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder , 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-13-2010, 03:55 PM
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simone. sorry to hyjack but I believe u use a modifiyed juice a nator as a centerfuge to filter ur wvo. How do u modify it and how dose it work?
thanks

-Brenden-
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95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-13-2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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simone. sorry to hyjack but I believe u use a modifiyed juice a nator as a centerfuge to filter ur wvo. How do u modify it and how dose it work?
thanks
No problem. Here's a link to a very long thread about the Juicerator.

Cheap centrifuge testing - an Acme juicerator, it works! - Topic Powered by Social Strata

I can give you the short version. Not too much to modifing it. The holes in the basket must be completely sealed. Instead of liquid passing through holes it allows the oil to stay in the basket. The particals in the oil will stick to the sides of the basket from the centrifical force of the basket spinning.I used a 2 part epoxy that your local hardware store will have. Use the stuff that sets up in 5 minutes. That seems to work the best.
Once the basket fills to a certain point it will overflow over the top of the basket & come out the drain spout. If you heat the oil then it will dewater as well. Most likely when you first start modifying it the Juicer will go unstable & start shacking & bouncing around. If you drill 2 1/8 holes across from each other in the top of the basket then that will help keep it stable. One guy has had good success hanging the Juicer.

The good side of the Juicer is once you get it running smoothly then it will filter & dewater almost as fast as a Raw Power for example for a fraction of the cost. The downside is it may take you a while to get it to run without dancing around. I have had one running for about 2 years & it took me about a month of frigging with it but now it runs great & has filtered thousands of gallons. I bought a second one about a year ago to use as a backup. Most of that year it sat idle cause I didn't have time to work on it. I have about 8 hours of frigging with it & I have just now been able to use it without it going bananas.

Keep in mind you are modifying something that wasn't designed for filtering VO. So there are no gauarntees that you can get it to work. But if you are persistent there is a very good chance it will.

If you are a paitent person then I suggest trying it. If you are not then it's not for you. You will quickly give up on it & probably smash it to bits.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-13-2010, 05:02 PM
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Seem a little labor intensive. A little sheet metal, a mig welder, spray paint and a six pack would be cheaper and easier.

97 F350 CC 4x4 Auto Welding Rig
Steamfitters Local 475, Newark, NJ
IDM mod/Homemade CCV/10k/6637/3"dp/4" exhaust/no cat/muffler



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post #6 of 7 Old 12-14-2010, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Seem a little labor intensive. A little sheet metal, a mig welder, spray paint and a six pack would be cheaper and easier.
Rgars what i wanted to do with mine but I have beem told by many over & over that oil pans cannot be welded.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-14-2010, 06:19 AM
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If it is made of metal.....

I understand super heating the inside when welding and burning the oil coating the pan.
Personally if I did this repair I would cut out the leaking area to make sure there was on rust or edges to flake off into the pan.

So if you cut the pan, cut it large enough to fit your hand in to wipe the inside then weld on the patch.

My 2 pennies.

97 F350 CC 4x4 Auto Welding Rig
Steamfitters Local 475, Newark, NJ
IDM mod/Homemade CCV/10k/6637/3"dp/4" exhaust/no cat/muffler



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