I added temp senders, HIH, Aux coolant pump & FPHE to my V3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:43 PM
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I added temp senders, HIH, Aux coolant pump & FPHE to my V3

Fellow veg-heads...

I went off veg for a short while b/c my V3 went down. It turns out I had a problem with the pickup tube in my tank. But, in the process of numerous troubleshooting adventures, swapping out pumps, cleaning out my manifold of old goo and generally just reinstalling various stuff, I learned many, many things. And I had a lot of help and advice from folks on this forum (especially VegginPSD and Clay), the BFT forum and the Frybrid forum.

I decided I was going to finally put in a full-length tank sender, that I wanted to start monitoring coolant and veg temps, and that I also wanted to add the BFT Hose-in-Hose solution. (The last goal was just to be sexy more than any other reason.) Along the way, I learned many more things and decided to also put in an aux coolant pump and a FPHE. I now get 160*F veg oil prior to hitting the heads within 6-10 miles of switchover. Prior to the HIH/pump/FPHE, I generally got 125*F-140*F veg temps (sometimes lower on cold days; sometimes warmer on LONG trips on warm days).

This thread has some pics so that if you are interested in doing something similar, perhaps it will give you some ideas.

Cheers!
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:52 PM
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Step 0 - I first installed Evans NPG+ coolant and a 203*F thermostat. I was due for a flush and I wanted a hotter running motor. NO BRAINER!

Step 1 - Cleanout of manifold and replace some of the brass w- stainless steel fittings. (I bought my V3 used and it sat for about 4 months with veg oil in it before my original install - shame on me for never cleaning it out good first BEFORE installing it!) Also, I installed the new BFT high-temp, low-amp pump. Solves the problems of the old FASS pumps - they tend to burn out over time when running VO.












Last edited by muns53; 11-16-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:57 PM
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Step 2 - Install new ISSPRO full-length sender in the tank. (I previously had a short sender - the bottom 1/3 of the tank would read "empty" which was annoying.) The pickup tube is superglued onto the pickup barb (the old one popped off) and routed to the middle of the tank & attached to the bottom of the sender with a ziptie & a clamp. (Keeps the pickup tube on the bottom and middle of the tank - no running dry when sloshing in cornering, acceleration, etc.)





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Old 11-16-2010, 06:05 PM
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Step 3 - Install BFT's HIH Solution. It is based on using airbrake line (Parker 1120 hose) instead of aluminum for the fuel line. The theory being that it is less likely to kink and easier to make the connections leak-proof. There are folks on the BFT site who have used this for 5-6 years with no issues. I tested the airbrake line before installing and it appears to be a great solution!

After boiling for 20 minutes, the hose showed no signs of getting soft or changing shape. So, I was satisfied it will stay on the connections. I put the pieces into a veg oil jar (from my storage tote) for long-term testing of the effects of WVO on nylon hose. So far, so good - after 5 or so weeks of soaking, no change.









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Old 11-16-2010, 06:09 PM
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Here's what the HIH connections & assembly looks like. Pretty friggin' sweet! (You buy the parts from Jay at BFT.)











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Old 11-16-2010, 06:21 PM
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Step 4 - Install four HIH assemblies. Two for the 6' section of HIH running from veg tank to V3 manifold & two for the 12' section of HIH running from the V3 manifold up to the engine. Note: I double/triple-wrapped the insulation and then overwrapped with rubber innertube material. The rubber protects the hoses as it passes over the tranny in the rear section and protects the hoses as it passes by the passenger side valve cover in the front section. Also, I believe it helps with heat retention.

Rear section...





Front section...







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Old 11-16-2010, 06:31 PM
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Step 5 - Final fuel line assembly with temp senders. A little explanation...

My hot coolant line tees in off the bottom passenger side of the motor. I installed a temp sender on a tee plus a ball valve to shut off flow to the veg system - helpful when I don't want heat back there and/or for running diesel via the Veggie system. The hot coolant hits the HIH assembly, then reverses direction and heads down the HIH line to the FPHE and V3 manifold and Veg tank (in that order). When the coolant has done all that, it hits the aux coolant pump and flows back up the return line (and also through a ball valve down by the V3 manifold - again to shut off heat when desired) to tee in on the top of the motor just under the final fuel line assembly. If you look closely in the pics, hopefully this is clear.









I used extra heater line to protect the "powerstroke cover" bracket where I have this assembly zip-tied to. I also used extra heater line to insulate it from the A/C line which it sits on (no need for any cooling effect). I think the "powerstroke cover" also nicely hides the assembly - seen in this pic below.

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Old 11-16-2010, 06:39 PM
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Step 5A - A little more detail on what parts went into my final fuel line assembly...

The HIH terminates with a JIC#6 (3/8") aluminum fitting. To this, I wanted to attach a ball valve (to shut off veg line completely) and a cross to accomodate a pressure sender and a temp sender and the final two fuel lines that connect to the test ports by #1 & #8 injectors. So, I went to my local Parker store and ordered a bunch of stainless parts to do the job. (I later found out that BRASS FITTINGS Brass Pipe Fittings Hose Barbs Stainless Steel Fittings Hydraulic Adapters Hydraulic Fittings Grease Zerks Hose Clamps has better pricing.)





It took me a while to figure out where to install this so that it didn't get in the way of anything. Ultimately, this spot works well for me because I can still access everything I want and it all works. For example, I can swap out the D2 fuel filter but just lifting this up a little to get the veg fuel lines out of the way. Also, nothing is near the hot turbo, so I don't have to worry about false readings of stuf melting, etc...



It's not easy to see, but the temp senders and the pressure sender are grounded through the ball valve handles to the motor (I used green wire for this to keep things simple). Then I ran the three sender wires (different colors for clarity) through loom over towards the battery & down the firewall into the cab.


Last edited by muns53; 11-16-2010 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:47 PM
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Step 6 - install aux coolant pump. I bought mine from partsgeek - it's the same one Clay used in his install. I wanted to put mine on the return line instead of the hot line, so I hunted for a place to put it back by the V3 manifold. Ultimately, I found a nice protected spot. I wired it by using a Bosch relay. It was a 5-pin, but I only used 4 pins. But I clipped and taped the middle wire and it functions the same way. (Here's a great link my buddy Russell gave me if you want to understand how relays work: FAQ: RELAYS; how they work and how to wire it up... - MP3Car.com) I also put a 10-amp fuse on the hot line for the relay coil, which I elected to run directly off the battery. I also put in a lighted on/off switch, because I wanted to be able to turn the pump off if I was shutting off heat & veg. (More on that later.)

I had to make a fitting to step down the coolant line from 3/4" (the size of the pump barbs) to 5/8" (the size of the coolant hose on the 7.3), so that is also in the pics.



I wanted to protect the pump from the elements, so I came up with a creative "pump protection device" to do the trick...







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Old 11-16-2010, 06:49 PM
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I then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape & found it a home...







Some more rubber wrap (to protect it and the lines it rests on from vibrations), some wire loom and it's quite happy in it's new home.

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