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post #1 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Blending with heat?

Iv been doing alot of reading and have plenty more to do but i would like to convert my obs to run a filterd, heated wvo/kero blend in the rear tank ( or aux tank if and when poly becoms a problem). The way i was going to run the system was to start on #2 from front tank, while running #2 to warm the truck i would have 2 electric inline fuel heaters and a hot fox in the wvo/blend tank to warm things up. 3 Inline temp gaudges at different points of the fuel system would give me the fuel temps. This is a rough idea i had that needs refining, but the whole idea would be that the kero in the wvo/kero blend would be 20/80, 50/50, and 80/20 depending on outdoor temp, and would reduce the viscosity also the added heat would insure good fuel temps around 100* befor it gets to the fuel bowl. i feel the added kero would allow lower temps into the heads but i dont know of any formulas to figur out exactly how the added % of kero will effect the burn to temp ratio of the blend. I know 160* is were u want to be with 100% wvo befor heads????
finally i would purg on d2..


Any body try a converstion like this??
Brenden

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
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post #2 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 11:20 AM
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We dont reccomend contaminating the fuel bowl. it makes flushing impossible. also, skip the electric heat, use the coolant. build an HIH, its free heat the truck already produces.

-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder , 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
DB high torque starter
DIY 6637
Marinco Mod
DIY Electric fuel w/ wvo conversion

"A clean house is a sign of a mis-lead life."
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post #3 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 11:23 AM
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I second what RN said. I have never been a fan of blending either. I know many say they have done it for years with no problems but it's not for me. Keep the fuels seperate & build a good 2 tank system.

2001 f-350 ext.cab. 7.3 auto non dually. 262k miles. New HD tranny at 67,000 miles. Boost, EGT, Tranny temp gauges. 04/10 DIY check valve VO conversion. 20 plate FPHE,Fass HPFP set at 70 PSI,TIH, 10 micron spin on filter with coolant wrap, 150 micron prefilter, hrydraforce purge valve, 40 gallon greasecar tank with hotfox, SS braided hose to heads, Oil temp, pressure & fuel level gauges. 110K miles on grease. Monitoring with Torque.
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post #4 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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how long, how many miles dose it take u guys to heat up the wvo to 160* say on a 65* day using coolent, and how long to purg with ur "full" wvo conversions??

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #5 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=ridiculously_necessary;2127871]We dont reccomend contaminating the fuel bowl. it makes flushing impossible. QUOTE]

Ok i agree, with a seperet pump, and seperet lines going to the head would a heated blend be ok?? we all know the vo gets heated to reduce viscosity, well added kero sould reduce viscosity as well but i feel starting and stoping on cold blend is no good (ring cooking ex) but heating the blend should work ?? a blend should reach d2 viscosity in less time with less heat than 100%wvo right??

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5

Last edited by TANPOWERSMOKER; 10-14-2010 at 11:58 AM.
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post #6 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 12:35 PM
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[quote=TANPOWERSMOKER;2127937]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridiculously_necessary View Post
We dont reccomend contaminating the fuel bowl. it makes flushing impossible. QUOTE]

Ok i agree, with a seperet pump, and seperet lines going to the head would a heated blend be ok?? we all know the vo gets heated to reduce viscosity, well added kero sould reduce viscosity as well but i feel starting and stoping on cold blend is no good (ring cooking ex) but heating the blend should work ?? a blend should reach d2 viscosity in less time with less heat than 100%wvo right??
makes sense, i would think it would be ok. dotn know much about it. i would assume with heat your fine.

at 65* at about 65mph it takes my 95 4 miles? maybe 5? when its 15* it takes closer to 10 or 12. at 90* maybe 2. iv found no amount of stock speed idling will ever get it up to temp, even if its 105*

-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder , 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
DB high torque starter
DIY 6637
Marinco Mod
DIY Electric fuel w/ wvo conversion

"A clean house is a sign of a mis-lead life."
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post #7 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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im all for a full wvo converstion but i have a 11 mi drive to work 1 way and normaly not alot of highway time or no long drives so im better off with bio but its alot more time consuming than wvo witch turns me off to it, thats why id like to find a way to get my wvo temps up fast using extra electric heated lines and blending kero. i was thinking of using a smaller tank 15-20 gal with 2 hot fox and the tank place ment would be in the bed between tool box and rear window and sit inside the stacks. I was also thinking of running a 2" exaust pipe thru the middle of the tank and it would be welded into both stacks for extra heat?? Also with a known ratio of added kero i think i could start burning the wvo blend at a lower temp like 100* 120* I need to find/or fig out a formula that i can use that shows me a blend ratio vs viscosity to temp.

(any blending i do will be with kero, or diesel depends on the cheaper one, I WILL NEVER USE GAS. I HATE THE IDEA OF GAS IN ANY DIESEL MOTOR)

For example ??? (Theres smoke coming out my ears...... lol)

100% wvo must be 160* befor it enters the heads, right
If you had say a 50/50 blend of kero/wvo could it be safly burnt and enter the heads at 80*???? idk

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #8 of 30 Old 10-14-2010, 05:14 PM
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the entire tank doesnt need to be up to temp. Just the area at the pickup does. Most vehicles at normal operating temps are right in between 180-190 degrees at idle in 90 degree weather.
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post #9 of 30 Old 10-15-2010, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erbilabuc View Post
the entire tank doesnt need to be up to temp. Just the area at the pickup does. Most vehicles at normal operating temps are right in between 180-190 degrees at idle in 90 degree weather.
ok , i thought the whole tank would have to be at 160*

U cant use a stock steel tank bc of poly right??

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #10 of 30 Old 10-15-2010, 06:44 AM
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correct, steel = poly. you could fashion an electric heat solution, sure. need to find a way to heat the lines going into the heads, and probably some sort of line heater before that...

the head will be warm after a couple minutes, warm enough with a mix? dunno. might be a good expiriement.

exhaust tube in your oil would take the oil from cold to nuclear in notime.

-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder , 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
DB high torque starter
DIY 6637
Marinco Mod
DIY Electric fuel w/ wvo conversion

"A clean house is a sign of a mis-lead life."
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