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  #1  
Old 09-10-2010, 07:21 PM
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SVO Conversion - 7.3L IDI

My Second SVO Truck, My First Conversion!!! OK so I have done alot of driving and maintenance on the simplest setup I could of imagined in a 1982 Toyota Landcruiser, and I when I had to, I could always fix it while I was on the road!

Now I am stoked to do my own conversion on a 1992 Ford F350 7.8L IDI Naturally Aspirated. I have lots of ideas and I think it would be really cool to document it as I go, creating one large forum full of questions, answers, & ideas. Iím a little broke right now so hang with me while things get off the ground.

Truck should be arriving 2-3 weeks. By then my pay check will be in and hopefully Iíll have a new job. Right now itís all on rough on paper, when a good sketch is done I will upload. Iím thinking;

Fuel System:
Two tanks (25, 35, or (45Gal. Drum(cut in Ĺ))-For Filtering & Delivery In Truck Bed
Electrically heated (somehow not sure yet)
Pump for filtering & ?Fuel Delivery (is this possible, one pump for both?)
Line in Line
Home Made Heater (not quite sure yet either; radiator or electrically powered?)
In Line Filtration:
Home Made Screen Sieve filter
Oil Filter
Standard In Line Fuel Filter
Engine

This will all be much clearer as I get drawings out and videos and pictures of the build. But First I have a few questions.

I feel I should have all my In Line Filtration after the 3 port valve, so the diesel can help clean the filter of veggie clog up? I think the benefit would be better flowing filters and fuel delivery, but the downside being crap carried through the injectors while running diesel, ANY THOUGHTS?

Also these B.C. winters can be cold so I had wanted to heat the veggie oil again, right after in line filtration and before it goes into the injectors. However this in turn would heat the diesel as well. Is heated diesel bad for the engine in any way?

I wonít bore you with any more words or questions till I get a sketch up. Going to go look at the truck for the first time tomorrow, which should give me a better understanding, maybe itís got dual tanks already! All thoughts, ideas, questions, are welcome!
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  #2  
Old 09-13-2010, 11:05 AM
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use coolant where you can, its free heat. consider usign an fphe for your final heat transfer. any reason you dont want to filter wvo and d2 seperatly? if your in BC i would highly reccomdn keeping the filters seperate. there is no guarentee that the d2 will flush the in-line filter properly, and you could get a wax crystal buildup keeping the d2 from flowing properly when you wake up in the morning.
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Old 10-10-2010, 12:05 PM
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So the beast is finally here. Problematic getting her home. I charged both the batteries fully two days before, but they were dead when I got there in the morning to turn her over. Hooked them up to chargers and juiced em long enough to get em turned over while jumping both the batteries at the same time. But SheeT the gas gauges donít work and I couldnít turn her off, ran out of gas going uphill, and the batteries were still dead. Uh Oh, friend to the rescue.

But in the driveway now. The engine ran strong with fresh diesel in it and only 301,011km. 3 fresh tires, a tailgate that is stuck up, and a back seat missing. But apparently a new alternator, which I am curious to know how to check, can anyone tell me how to test it?

I was looking over the fuel system. Itís got two tanks with single steel lines running from each and splitting under the back of the cab somewhere and I canít find where they re-connect for the valve. Single line into the fuel filter, which has two wires, is it heated? Now for the black cloth type weaved fuel lines that I believe are return lines, equalizing pressure between all injectors and sending it back to the tank, as well as the oil filter, why is the system being equalized in both ends?

My first priorityís are to solve the battery issues and get it running on veggie oil. I need to order a service/engine manual of some type over the internet. This site seems to be rated best, but which specific manual do I want? Or should I invest in a Clymers?

http://www.helminc.com/helm/Re...e=&selected%5Fmedia=

I will be dropping the two fuel tanks soon to fix the fuel gauge sensor. And begining the proccess of finding and ordering the neccesary conversion parts. I am not sure what I am going to do with fuel tank's anymore. I want two seperate tanks in the bed, one clean, one dirty. Using the standard secondary tank seems to be problematic due to the WVO and Steel reacting. I want to create a permanent system in the bed. I will use either steel or plastic drums. Food Indsutry Standard steel drums seem to come with a pink coating sprayed to the inside, will this stand up against the veggie oil? Otherwise I think my only other option is Blue Plastic.





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Old 10-11-2010, 06:20 AM
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sorry, cant help you on the manual part. but the steel food grade drums ive never had a problem with. but ive seen people use the blue poly drums as well. drums are cheap at least, worst case scenario you have to swap it.

are you sure that wired filter your looking at isnt the lift pump?
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:54 PM
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For IDI info head over to oilburners 6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels - Oilburners.net

This site is awesome for PSDs, Oilburners has a very active IDI enthusiast crowd and a number of folks running WVO.
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:13 PM
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So I ran over to oilburners and signed up, but I can't seem to access any of the forums, im not sure whats going on.

Design Plans so far:



So I need to decide what kinda fuel lines to use. My primary fuel will be WVO, but I would like to be able to run BD as well. I want TIH. I think I am going to use Good Year J30R7 (vitron lined), and standard radiator hose around that. But I have no idea what kind of diameters I need, the J30R7 has a 3 layer construction and a decent wall thickness. But maybe I should just forget about the BD entirely and go with Steel or Aluminum with compression fittings. HELP, What should I do!?

Because I still have no idea what kinda of fuel lines to use so i havent done any research on fittings or connectors yet. However in my design so far I know I will need:

1 - Electric 3 Port Valve
1 - Pressure and Temperature Gauge
3 - TEE's
3 - Manual Shut Off Valves

Before the IP I plan on placing a Inline Crap Catcher, Temperature & Pressure Sensors. I'm assuming Ill have to change from a Steel to rubber line to make this possible, no?

RKPATT: In another thread I read that you placeda TEE in the same line before the Crap Catcher, whats the point of this?

The WVO Filter and Pump shown in the sketch are down the road imporvements so I have done no resaearch on them yet. For now it will just be insulated fuel line all the way to the TEE for the tanks.

Which I am still unsure long system. Will it even have any heat left by the time it makes it thorugh the coil in the second tank? Is their a way I can heat my tanks electrically off of 12v? Can I re-wire a hot water heater element to accomplish this, how can I make sure to maintain proper oil temp (160f?)

I am going to run both my diesel and WVO through my FPHE with a shutoff valve to shut down the FPHE for extended diesel driving. Also, the line which returns fuel to the tank to maintin proper pressure I am going to re-introduce into the system with a TEE right before my FPHE. This should take care of worrying which tank which fuel is returning too, and should provide some inlet pressure to the DB@ Fuel Pump, i think...

OH; PS: does anyone know where the 3 port valve for the diesel tanks is located?
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:08 AM
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Alright so it's been a few months since I've been on here. It's time to get going on my conversion. Hoping to have made significant progress by June 1st. I have decided to borrow a sum of money in order to do the conversion. I dont want to mickey mouse anything, but I do want to make my own system.

I came across a FASS 1998.5 - 2004 FO D03 095G Standard Fuel Pump on my local craigslist. I know it's not adjustable, but could I not just put a valve in the line after the pump to control inlet pressure? Or would it work the pump to hard?

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.../pts/2221615421.html

http://www.fassride.com/np_use...8394ce1a23c7ed1d.pdf

If I choose to continue to use my DB2 Pump for Diesel only, and use a seperate pump for WVO. How do I shutdown the DB2 when running on veggie, could I simply wire in a power switch? I would hate to have to mess with the original diesel system.

Im trying to work out some kind of flow chart to see which fluid will flow through which pipes and when. Aiming to establish sufficient temperatures & pressures at the injectors and the inlet side of the DB2 Lift Pump.

Veg or Diesel->3 Prt valve->FPHE->Fass Pump & DB2 Lift Pump (in series)->VO Filter & Diesel Filter (in parallel)->3Prt valve->Injector Pump & Delivery System

I was planning on placing my FPHE right before the Injector Pump to keep up temps at the injectors, but then was told I should place it before the DB2 Lift Pump and run both my VO and DIESEL through the FPHE to avoid thermal shock on the DB2 when switching over from cold diesel to hot VO. Also would make it easier on the pumps knowing they are working with hot oil.

I know heated diesel has decreased lubricity, which is no good for the injectors but can be adjusted with 5% VO mix in fuel. The FPHE will also have a Rad. fluid shutdown valves to prevent coolant flow through the entire VO system when prolonged diesel burning is expected. I figure this will give me quicker switch over times in cold weather.

I figure I will place my well heated VO filter right before the injector pump, I think this will help to bump back any heat loss occuring in the pumps.


PS: does anyone know how I can access the forum articles on oilburners? I created an account but everything is marked Private

Last edited by ride_gnu; 03-01-2011 at 09:07 PM.
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