diy wvo conversion questions

[mpiller]

I am getting an f250 within the next month and plan on making a wvo conversion. I know it will be a 6.0. I have a good supply of wvo and a way of filtering and collecting/storing it setup already. I plan on putting the second tank in a toolbox and I'm going to put a heater in the tank, then I plan on running it through a 30 plate heat exchanger and then through the fuel filter and then I will probably add an inline heater before the inejectors so i am assuming it should be plenty hot enough but I will also use an oil temp gaugs so i dont make any costly mistakes. Does this sound ok? What I haven't figured out yet and cant seem to find any good answers to is how do you purge from regular diesel to the wvo? I'm guesing its a valve of some sort but could someone explain this to me?
Thanks

[vegginpsd]

If you use the factory fuel bowl, you will never get a complete and safe purge. It all sounded ok until you got to that part. Wvo should never co-mingle with D2 in the fuel delivery system. Two seperate and parralel fuel systems should be biilt.

In addition, the 6.0 fuel pump should not be used for WVO. I reccomend FASS HPFP and a seperate heated filter.

Given that you are getting a 6.0, I cannot be of much further assistance, as my experience is limited to IH 7.3's and VW TDI's. I have never converted any 6.0's.

Perhaps clay can elighten you on the proper ways of the 6.0. I do not know the specifics of that system. The 6.0 is far less frequently converted than other engines.

On a side note, could you explain your filtrations system.

[simone0414]

First off make sure you are getting a good 6.0. From what I have read the 03 & 04 years can be a nightmare. Headgaskets, injectors, EGR coller etc. By 06 Ford seemed to have made the 6.0 a much better engine.

I would suggest you take some time & check out this site. POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners.

I am pretty sure that converting the 6.0 is 99% the same as converting a 99-03 7.3. There are a few differences but not much.

Definetely keep the fuels completely seperate. Run an entire new fuel system for your veg. Use check valves in the heads on the diesel lines & a check valve in your veg system. You plumb in a solenoid valve right before the veg check valve & when you switch back to diesel you open that valve up which allows you to flush the veg out of the fuel rails with diesel & then run another minute to burn up any veg in the injectors. This makes for a very fast & efficient purge.

IMO you must at least have a fuel pressure gauge & a veg temp gauge. I would suggest a FPHE as you final heating device & plumb it as close to the engine as you can get it. Mine is on the firewall by the brake master cylinder. Yes get the Fass HPFP. It's a bit pricey but worth every penny. Either buy or make a heated pickup for your tank.

Have you looked at the Vegistroke kit? It is up to you but a DIY can be a major undertaking & at the end of the day you mau spend almost as much as the V3 costs. I did a DIY on mine which is working well but was ALOT of work to source parts, figure out where evrything was going to go, make a million trips to the hardware & automotive store etc.. etc.. etc.. I if could do it again I would spend the extra $$$ for the V3 & be done with it. Frybrid makes a very good system as well.

Hoepfully Clay will chime in as well. Do lots of reading on FRYBRID SVO/WVO FORUM an open and public discussion of Vegetable Oil as a fuel

Andhttp://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/ .

They are both very good sites IMO.

Good luck.

[mpiller]

Thanks for the replys and sorry for the first post, Ididnt fully explain it correctly. I had planned on running the veg and regular diesel completely seperate with a seperate pump for the veg oil and a seperate heated filter for it also. Should I run the heated filter before or after the fphe? I thought after would be neccesary so that it would be hot before being filtered, but I need it to also be as close as possible to the engine. I am still a little confused as to how I set it up from there so that I can purge it, if anyone has a diagram that would be great. The way I understand it is that the fuel line from the veg would have to tee into the regular fuel line before the fuel rails, and then there would also have to be a solenoid valve there to purge over to veg, and then to purge back to diesel before shutting off. Is this right? I would love to get the v3 kit bu it just cost too much and I know a few peole that have done it a few times before that can help me a little along the way if I have any major troubles, but I just want to research it as much as possible.
Thanks for all the help

[mpiller]

Ok I think I may have figured out what I didnt understand. If I have a 3 way valve then I have one fuel line hooked to regular diesel, the other to veg, and the third one goes to the fuel rails, and then a switch to purge between the diesel and veg lines? Im trying to make this setup as simple as possible.
Thanks

[ridiculously_necessary]

there is no need for valves for feeding the fuels, youll have two pumps, one will switch on and the other off. vegginpsd or clay may be able to explain where to put a relay for this. the solenoid goes after the heads, on the return side, 1 common and two out ports, one port for wvo and the other for D2. electric current controls the solenoid when switching from D2 and wvo. this is what veggin and simone are talking about. does that help clear anything up?

[Clay Henry]

Filter after the flat plate HE. Not sure I understand where your talking about tapping into the fuel system but my advice would be get on the DFA website and download the PDF of the V3 install for the 6.0. It will explane how to use check valves on the diesel input side and feed vegi from the rear of the fuel rails with a solinoid valve for purging. Its simple and i do recommend buying a vegistroke because as stated above, its going to be a major PITA to diy on this. IMO your reinventing the wheel...just go buy the wheel thats already out there.
Every single person I know who has done a DIY system has said they wished they had sprung for the V3 because its superior in quality to anything you will ever build for a few bucks more. You can have it on and in use in 8 hours. Your DIY system could cost you 10 times that much time and headache

[mpiller]

ok thanks that clears it up a little and I'll download the vegistroke install and take a look at it. Are there any decent kits that are a little less pricey then the v3?
Thanks

[Clay Henry]

Originally Posted by mpiller

Are there any decent kits that are a little less pricey then the v3?
Thanks

Not that i am aware of...if so, your simply buying a cheaper product. You get what you pay for and DFA kits are not marked up alot. They cost alot to make.

[ridiculously_necessary]

imho, i dont know all the kits or hav ea v3. but from what i have seen i woul deitehr do a dfa kit or a diy.