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Old 02-20-2014, 08:02 PM
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stub shaft

so i fairly certain the stub shaft and bearings are shot. where is the best place to buy one? the dealer only sells it as a kit for 430 bucks. the u joint is 28 bucks at oreilly but they dont sell the shaft.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:41 PM
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Ebay... genuine Dana/Spicer parts can be had for reasonable $. I bought a complete kit for both sides that included stub shaft, needle bearing, axle knucle seal, and universal joint. Dont recall the cost but I'm sure it was a lot less than $400+. Maybe $250-$300? For both sides mind you...

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Old 02-20-2014, 08:49 PM
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hmm all i see are the outer ones. i need the inner i think and the bearings. i have a **** ton of play in the axle where it comes out of the axle tube
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:37 AM
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You would if the needle bearings are shot. That is the only support for that end of the axle shafts.

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Old 02-21-2014, 06:12 AM
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i can grab onto the u joint and there is no support at all in there i can move it quite a bit. the dust shield is intact though. its just i have this 70mph groan like a wheel bearing but i have replaced both twice now and when i turn to the left you can hear a crunching sound when i am moving. but only when the weight is shifted to the right side.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:00 PM
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It has movement when free. Did you replace the wheel bearing or the needle bearing ? Is the shaft ate up where the needle bearing rides against it ? I would say either your needle bearing is shot and needs replaced or the wheel bearing is bad unless your shaft is ate up and eating bearings. I thought I saw something recently where Rockauto had the short shaft for $56 or something like that... Don't take that to the bank , but we just did needle bearings two weeks ago on a friends and I thought he said it was something like that for the shaft which he didn't need.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:26 PM
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the wheel bearings have only about 1000 miles on them. i never looked that the outer stub shaft before i replaced the wheel bearing.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:45 PM
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Check your needle bearings as previously stated. You have a seal on the inside of the tube next to the pumpkin , you have the dust seal at the outside of the tube that is usually loose anyway and supports nothing. You have the needle bearing which rides on the outer shaft , you can't miss the needles from the bearing if it's bad or the shaft being ate up if you feel it , you have the wheel bearing which I doubt failed in 1000 miles. I am going off a 4 wheel drive set-up so if 2x setup at the hub is completely different then disregard my over abundance of ignorance -
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:03 PM
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yes it is 4wd. ok so if i pull the wheel bearing out the stub shaft should slide right out or do i have to open the pumpkin and remove any c clips?
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:17 PM
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I believe they slide right out , at least the passenger side does - might have to work it some. I'd check both sides as the noise can often sound left and be right or vice versa. There is a vacuum seal for the hubs that has to come out I believe before the shaft will come out , will probably trash it so expect to need another , when the new vacuum seal goes in there is a tool to drive it in , we got the last one to seat right by putting it in with the shaft and then Using the wheel bearing assbly hub and a slow torque sequence on the four bolts to pull it in some of the way so it was fully in and then removed the wheel bearing assembly and gently used a mallet and wood to get it fully seated on the stub shaft while in the tube before reinstalling everything.
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