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Old 03-09-2010, 10:08 AM
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help, common repairs/problems?

I just picked up a 2000 limited 4x4 7.3 excursion. everything seems to be running fine, except my steering feels a little slugish and kinda feels like it needs an alignment. does anybody have a list of common parts that should be replaced before they break on me? i just got 4 new pro comp shocks i need to put on and im about to replace the power steering pump, anything else i should be looking into?
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:05 AM
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I'll give you my list:

-rear end....WATCH IT CLOSELY!!
-Glow plug control module (GPCM) at about 150,000 miles.
-Power steering fluid leak....very slow leak.
-general engine oil seal leaks
-brake rotors warp. Got a brake job and it is great now(don't know what they used however).
-Cam position sensor(should have been changed out under recall). Mine never went bad on the Excursion but my '01 F-350 went out with 5,000 miles on the odometer.
-power door lock actuators
-driver's seat adjustment control switch(easy fix)

**Do not under any circumstances close the rear window hatch without the barn doors closed correctly**

-The shock springs are woefully weak for a vehicle weighing this much.
-A rear end anti-sway bar is worth it's weight in gold

Other than that not much has gone wrong in 174,000 miles.

Last edited by DR.billZ; 03-09-2010 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:18 AM
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My list:
1. Cam shaft postioning sensor. I still carry a spare in my glove box's (recalls are still the cheapest fix that they can find)
2. Slotted brake rotors when as soon as you feel pedal pulsation. Especially on the Excursions. You only need to do the fronts, usually the rears don't warp unless you are pulling very heavy trailers.
3. Rear airbags for the Excursion if you are going to tow anything. The rear spring rates are much softer then the truck springs, and the airgbags allow you to have the soft ride when empty, and gets rid of the rear axle hop when loaded.
4. Watch the pinion seals, both front and rear. If they start leaking to much then you get to enjoy the buying experience of gear sets.
5. Front sway bar bushings. You don't need to replace them when they get worn, just use washers to fill in the space and keep them tight. For some reason they just get worn and loose very quickly and then if feels like something is clunching under your feet when you go over a bump.
6. A whole handful of money when you are empty of fuel. I love the factory 44 gallon tank, until it is time to fill it up.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:28 AM
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I have a power steering pump if you are interested. Came off an F-250.
Have not used it and can not guarantee it is good(although I'm sure it's fine).

Bought it from a salvage yard when my fluid was only low. I filled it up and it was fine. Thought I'd keep it but I'd let it go. Check that fluid level first and don't be like me


Watch your tire pressure. I run 70 psi but everywhere you go they will try to reset them at 50-55psi. This is a very heavy vehicle!

Last edited by DR.billZ; 03-09-2010 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:18 PM
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Can you tell by looking at a ball joint if it's bad or not?
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:10 AM
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To check ball joints, you will need a floor jack and a pry bar, and a buddy can make it a ton easier.
1. Jack up one front tire so that it is only about 1/2" - 1" off the ground.
2. Grab your buddy and have them put the pry bar under the tire from the side and try and pry the tire straight up. Meanwhile you are looking under the truck right at the ball joint. If the whole wheel assembly looks like it is moving right at the ball joint then it is worn.

A new ball joint should not have any movement at all, and obviously the more movement, then the worse it is worn. If you are going to replace a ball joint, then replace both of them. You are already there and most of the price in replacing ball joints is the labor. It would also be a spectacular time to replace the axle u-joint. Same as before, you are right there, and if it looks or feels at all suspicious, then just replace it. An extra $100 in parts now might save you $200-$400 in labor later.

A note of caution, BE CAREFUL when checking the ball joints. If you rock the vehicle enough to come off the jack, then just be aware that your head might not be hard enough to hold the vehicle up.
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:20 AM
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Sounds like a ball joint.My 02 feels like it binds up when you back up and then pull forward.Usually a sign of ball joints.Not to mention I work @ a dealer and sell them pretty frequently.I am actually installing a sway bar tonight and just upgraded the shocks.these things are a handful with the rear suspension stock so make that an area to look into.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:28 PM
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How do you change out the ball joints? Do you need special tools or just a BFH? How much would a set of upper and lower ball joints cost?
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:21 AM
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Replacing ball joints will take you all day, then when you are done, you need an alignment.
Please forgive me if I miss a step, I am going off memory.
In order to change them,
1. Remove the wheel
2. Remove the brake caliper and hang it with a zip tie or wire to the frame. Dont let it just hang by the brake line. Doing so WILL cost you money in the long run, I promise... It is just one of those things that you do not do.
3. Remove the hub
4. Remove the cotter pin in both the upper and lower castle nuts of the ball joint. It may be adventagious to spray some penetrating oil on these nuts and the ball joints as soon as you can see them. Sometimes they can be welded in by corrosion or just whatever.
5. Remove the wheel spindle assembly
6. Use a press, press out the ball joints, don't forget to look for a C clip on the bottom side of the ball joints. They are very effective for holding the ball joint in place against the press when you forget to remove them first. That lil bit of info is from experience and a few choice words.
7. Once the joints are out, with a light sand paper, polish any rust or big pits and corrosion spots.
8. Press in the new joints.
9. Slap the whole thing back together, then kick back and have a cold one while you call and schedule an alignment.


You can rent a ball joint press with the proper adapters from Orielly's and other auto parts stores, and I would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend it. You might also need a BFH as you are doing chasis work.

For prices you might as well figure on $150 ball park for ball joints only. I would recommend buying the best one's available, which are usually Moog brand. Reasons for the better ones are: If you plan on keep the truck for a while, you are going to run larger than stock tires, you just don't absolutely enjoy doing ball joints. The cheap ones seem to wear out MUCH quicker then the more expensive ones. You just seem to get what you pay for.

I will be doing ANOTHER set of ball joints in the next 30-60 days on my 99 250, so if you would like I could take step by step pictures if you can wait that long for your project.
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:31 AM
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There is also a thread in the tech files that seems to be better written then my poor writing abilities. It is labeled Superduty ball joint replacement. Just FYI. I would post a link but I work better with my hands then computers and don't know how.
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