Ball Joints and Hub Bearings

[014x4cc7.3]

I think it may be time for new ball joints, any bump or pulling in/out of parking lots I hear a groaning noise from the front end, sort of like when my old 71 Impala sounded when the A-frame bushings were worn out. I will get it jacked up this weekend and try the pull on the top and bottom of the wheel trick, but with 116,000 miles on the factory ones I am suspecting that is it. Anyway, I found on the internet a kit that supplies everything needed including the hub bearings and after shopping around to buy the same separately the price around 600.00 seemed pretty good. The question I have is if I am going to replace the ball joints should I go ahead and change out the bearings while tearing everything down? If I replace the bearings I will keep the old ones sealed up just in case I have a failure later.

By the way the kit does include the MOOG ball joints with grease zerks.

Thanks,

[FatManStroke]

if you have the doe and it's original hardware i would go ahead and do it all. that way you dont have to go back in ther again for awhile. you can check the ball joints by lifting the tire off the ground and check for play by wiggling the wheel you can check for worn bearings this way as well.

by the way what axle and what does the kit come with???? just currious how much more the parts cost as compared to a d44....

[Marty]

Moved the posts for ya into the right forum. Did you get your kit from Powerstrokeshop.com - PSD and Ford Superduty Parts

If you have bad ball joints and your wheel bearings are ok, just change the ball joints. If you have bad wheel bearings and your ball joints are ok, just do the wheel bearings. If you have bad ball joints on one side and bad wheel bearings on the other (or same side) then I'd replace them all. 750bucks was the best quote I coudl get and that included all seals, all Orings, both wheel bearings, all 4 ball joints, and what not.

Ball joints and WB are pretty easy on these trucks, if you need any info/help just shoot me a pM or call me. Pickle fork and a ball joint press will put you in buisness, both of which can be rented for about 10, and 100 bucks respectively.

[99 Red Stroker]

I just replaced my wheel bearings and ball joints a couple a months ago. I got all my parts from Powerstrokeshop. I got everything in a kit with all the seals needed. They are a good outlet for parts and they know there stuff. My ball joints weren't wore that bad. I just wanted to do it all and not have to go back in later. With the price of there kits you can't go wrong. Hope things go well. If you want to grease the top ball joint you may have to get a different grease fitting that fits closer to the ball joint. I just greased mine and replaced the plug for now. I will install with a fitting when I find one that won't get broke off by the axle joint. Hope this helps and good luck.
99 Red Stroker

[014x4cc7.3]

A BIG thank you for the replies. I stopped by the tire store I have been using today, we jacked the truck up and NO movement pulling on the tire top to bottom, no noise from the bearings. We did replace the ORIGINAL brake pads at 116,000 miles and turned the rotors, not a squeak,squeal or anything before a grind, I used to drive GM trucks and just prior to the brake pads going the wear indicators would let you know it is time for brake pads, bought the Ford replacement pads and I did not see the "ears" on them like the GM pads had to contact the rotor, maybe there is some other indicator and I just did not hear it.. The noise I am hearing is coming from one of the urethane bushings somewhere in the suspension. It sounds like it is under my feet. I am thinking of replacing the sway bar bushings to see if that shuts it up, before I do that I am trying to figure out if I lube them somehow and that works I will know that is what I need to replace. The last few days between the brake noise, the bushing noise I was worried the front suspension was ready to go, then common sense kicked in, truck has 265/75/16 Michelin LTX MS tires, never been off-roaded or abused and my tires have even wear across all 4, worn out at 70,000 miles but worn evenly. Next find a good price on another set of Michelins and strike out for the next 70,000 miles. I will sleep better tonight knowing I do not have to spend more than tires and brakes. This truck I plan to keep a LONG time. This 7.3 totes my travel trailer wherever I want to go without a grunt, good mileage and a stable ride.
I asked on this forum about trading for an 06 6.0 and most here said stay with the horse I am riding and that my friends turned out to be darn good advice. I think I will keep on babying this truck and go for the million mile mark.

[Marty]

Good luck on the million mile mark, report back in 50 years because at the current rate that's how long it's gonna take!!!!

[014x4cc7.3]

Actually career change coming up and will start putting lotsa miles on it, probably 50-60k per year.

[MartyB]

99 and 2000 models had a bad tendency for the front springs to "groan". Ford even made an update kit that put a small piece of plastic between the ends of the secondary spring and the primary leaf. This helped out, but WD-40 on these areas once in a while seems to be the permanent fix for my truck. Not sure if this is related to your problem, but it sounds similar to me.

[strokermann]

i have the updated platics in between the springs. i think it was a recall. not sure but the plastic is there

[014x4cc7.3]

Originally Posted by MartyB

99 and 2000 models had a bad tendency for the front springs to "groan". Ford even made an update kit that put a small piece of plastic between the ends of the secondary spring and the primary leaf. This helped out, but WD-40 on these areas once in a while seems to be the permanent fix for my truck. Not sure if this is related to your problem, but it sounds similar to me.

Thanks a whole bunch, I will look into this and report back.